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Post by eisdielenbiker on Apr 30, 2009 7:46:41 GMT
This afternoon I am about to change gearbox oil. I would fill it with ATF Type A Suffix A which suits Ford boxes too. I dont really know what ATF type is in the box possibly wrong Dexron-type. Can one differentiate ATF by colour or other markers? That in the box is still light red and smells very little after driving hard. But I want to check the filter and the sump gasket anyway.
Thank you
Mark
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 30, 2009 8:24:34 GMT
Mark if it is an original build box the ATF type should be Type G Ford Spec M2C-33G  if it has been rebuilt have a word with the person who did the job. |
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Post by eisdielenbiker on Apr 30, 2009 9:41:42 GMT
I have just owned the car for a year and I dont have the chance to get any information besides some documents not covering any autobox rebuild. Relying to an overhauler who is into autoboxes there is just one major difference between old BW/Ford boxes an more modern boxes. This is the differnt layout of brakebands for smoother gearchange in modern boxes. The new broader bands require a special friction reducer available in DEXRON ATFs. If used in original state p5 boxes gear changes might become vague and slippery and brake bands can be damaged.
Is ATF alway reddish if new ?
Mark
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 30, 2009 11:17:23 GMT
Hi Mark go by the box rebuilder and no not always red I have seen green as well but red should be red and not brown!
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Post by enigmas on Apr 30, 2009 12:35:28 GMT
Mark this is not a matter of life & death but more of an irritation. A rebuilt box will generally be rebuilt with more modern friction materials. If you use the old spec fluid with the newer friction material all you may find is an increased harshness in the shifts.
If your engine is in good condition and the automatic has been rebuilt properly stall test it and check for slip and squawk. It'll be obvious. The information for stall testing should be in your manual.
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Post by harvey on Apr 30, 2009 12:45:29 GMT
The original "Type A" fluids were Dexron type, and the non Dexron was "Type F" (later "G") which is as posted earlier Ford Spec. M2C-33G and would be the one I would use.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 30, 2009 18:40:19 GMT
Both types of fluid look identical but using the wrong one will be expensive in the medium term
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Post by eisdielenbiker on Apr 30, 2009 18:54:31 GMT
Hello, I decided to put sum rather large pictures here, but not that big in kilobytes size. I removed the oil pan today:  That does not really look like a rebuilt BW35. Nobody ever claimed that anyway.  Although the replacement front pump oil strainer from JRW looked completely different I replaced it. A little cleaning of the old one would have done it too. I put in spares box. But I have never opened an autobox and am in a process of learning somehow. So what can I learn from this? Is there a similar oil strainer for the rear pump missing? Referring to my book the answer is possibly yes:  And what is that strange black fluffy sth. I happen to realize just now on the picture, beside th missing(?) rear strainer about in the middle of the picture towards the piston? Only 3 litres of ATF could be drained. I replaced this exact amount with clear TASA ATF I got here. I once had a squeaky noise when accelarating and shiftin to 3rd is a little retarded every now and then. I will check exact ATF level next according workshop procedure. I have to drain at least another 2 times to get rid of old ATF in a noticable amount up to 8 Litres. BTW when removing the front oil strainer a lot more ATF drained(half to one litre). I expected 5 in all however. Mark |
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Post by harvey on Apr 30, 2009 19:07:03 GMT
The filter on the right is the later type, and won't fit your early type valve block because it hits the sump. The strange furry thing is a hedgehog* * It's actually a magnet that catches metal particles in the fluid. (But it looks like a hedgehog!)  Ther isn't a rear pump fitted on the V8 boxes. (Or there shouldn't be) It all looks pretty good in there, not too much debris and the fluid colour isn't too bad either. |
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Post by enigmas on Apr 30, 2009 22:58:49 GMT
Harvey's advice advice on the pump is correct. The 3 litre mk3 had the rear pump fitted and this can be evidenced due to the rear screen being on these valve bodies. The rear pump allows the vehicle to be roll started when towed or to restart through the transmission (almost like a manual) if the motor were to cut out...or you can tow it without romoving the tailshaft as the rearpump provides the necessary lubrication for the box. The casting for the rear pump is just a carry over from when it was required. Later model BW40s in OZ have this casting area much reduced as it was not used.
Any stickiness in the shifts may be due to the valves within the valve body sticking (dirt, grit, gum) and this would warrant a clean. The valve body is easily removed from underneath but it can be a bit messy.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 30, 2009 23:13:14 GMT
If you remove the valve body a lot more of of ATF will drain out of the converter overnight - impossible to drain fully unlike the DG converters which had drain plugs
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Post by eisdielenbiker on May 1, 2009 11:18:00 GMT
Thanks for the help. The rear oil strainer really is not mentioned anymore in my V8 addendum to the workshop manual. Didnt know of the difference in BW35 before. Meanwhile I have ordered 15 Liters of Ford M2C-33G compliant ATF. As I can only rent a car lift for 1 or 2 hours I wont dissasemble the valve body. I am trying to flush the system with LUBEGARD from USA entirely by the transmission oil cooler lines. Hopefully I find a notice which cooler pipe delivers and which one sucks.
I had no trouble fitting back the oil pan with the wrong strainer attached. Strange. Maybe one of the small metal pipes underneath is now bent. I will recheck next week.
Mark
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Post by harvey on May 1, 2009 12:20:01 GMT
I had no trouble fitting back the oil pan with the wrong strainer attached. Strange. Maybe one of the small metal pipes underneath is now bent. I will recheck next week. Mark The filter originally on there is the early type, and in the picture, on the left of the valve block, next to the filter is a silver housing screwed on the side, and although the angle at which the picture is taken from makes it awkward, it looks as though there is too much of the valve block below that housing for it to enable the later filter to be fitted. A picture taken from that side would prove the point, but I can only think that if you got the later filter on there then looks must be deceiving. |
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Post by eisdielenbiker on May 2, 2009 18:53:07 GMT
The filter just gives a very firm seat on to the oil pipe . It is in line with the gasket flange of the gearbox. I checked it. Didn't look wrong to me. Maybe I find it distorted when reopening the pan a few days later...
Mark
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Post by eisdielenbiker on May 4, 2009 7:47:11 GMT
Odd, but after draining just exact 3 Litres I added 3 of the new ATF again. And this came out as much too little at last. I added another 1.5 Litres ATF and my P5 changed gears as used before. (2 to 3 was delayed a lot) With the new fluid it is easier to read the dip stick level although being colourless. Strange...
Mark
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 4, 2009 9:50:31 GMT
You are checking the the level hot with engine idling are you?
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Post by eisdielenbiker on May 4, 2009 11:36:00 GMT
Yes I check the level with engine hot in warm weather on level ground. At my distant garage I put in 0.5 litre of ATF and did not quite reach the lower end of the dipstick. Then I drove 5 km to my home garage an rechecked. Prior to every check I let the engine idle and selected through all the P-RD-D1-D2-range in standstill with foot on the brake pedal. Anyway the correct Ford ATF is on its way. As there is a local rally next weekend I will completely flush ATF the weekend after next one. No problems actually anymore. Just a little greyish dust like stuff in the rag when checking ATF level. That was there before already. I guess it is brake band residue.
Mark
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if it has been rebuilt have a word with the person who did the job.
