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Post by David on Feb 24, 2010 13:06:51 GMT
The car starts on the key immediately. Now this would normally be ideal but this is without any choke or throttle. If I give it choke and throttle it will not start. I am assuming then, that it is running too rich for its on good.
I am looking for advice on how to set up the carbs correctly. Though I have the Rover P5 Clubs SU book I am not confident of getting it any better (probably worse) so is there anything on the market that I can plug in or insert up the exhaust?
Alternatively does anyone know of a local company (Bristol) that can balance twin SUs.
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Post by Colin McA on Feb 24, 2010 15:39:48 GMT
The best items you can buy are the Gunson Colourtune and carb balancer.
The colourtune goes where the spark plug goes so I use two of the on Cylinders 5 and 7. You can simply adjust the mixture to the desired level.
You may want to check that your throttle cable is not sticking. I was having a problem with mine where it would not fully return and thus giving higher idle.
Colin
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 24, 2010 19:56:59 GMT
Who ever you get make sure they loosen thethrottle link between the 2 carbs so they can be set independently - I seen countless "adjusted" without doing this
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Post by David on Mar 3, 2010 10:27:06 GMT
Well Saturday is now planned as Rover Tuning Day with Gunson ;D. A good friend has kindly offered to bring his box of goodie along.
Set timing. Balance Carbs Adjust mixture to both
Seems easy when I type it here so if anyone with expereince can advise, it would be much appreciated.
Thanks to Phil regarding throttle link and Colin about which cylinders to use.
What about timing?
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Post by Colin McA on Mar 3, 2010 19:24:45 GMT
I use cylinders 5 and 7 which is the back two on the passenger side, There is more viability on that side as it doesn't have the servo.
Each carb feeds two cylinders on each side so make sure you know which carb your working on.
I think a carb feeds the cylinders on the front and rear and the middle two on the opposing side or vice versa.
Colin
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Post by harvey on Mar 3, 2010 19:29:14 GMT
Each carb feeds the end two cyls on its own side, and the middle two on the opposite side.
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Post by David on Mar 5, 2010 9:28:14 GMT
Thanks fellas - much appreciated. One final question: What do you set your timing too? My car is fited with a luminition system, if that makes any difference.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 5, 2010 23:08:59 GMT
As with any P5B start with 6º BTDC and retard by 1º at a time to TDC to stop pinking if you are using 95 Octane unleaded or add Tetraboost or use Super unleaded 98 Octane
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Post by David on Mar 8, 2010 9:52:26 GMT
Just an update: Set the timing without any problem. Balancing carbs, even with two of us and a carb balancer took hours. Much scratching of heads, hot drinks and repeating the excercise did nothing to help. Trying to adjust the tickover was impossible. One carb was running rich with adjustment making no difference watsoever. So we took off the tops and checked and found both sides had stuck jets - one of which looked particularly bado A quick phone call to David Green late on Saturday and a replacement carb appears at 2pm on Sunday - now that's what I call service ;D Colin, what do you use to clean the colortune with. The liquid had all gone and I read somewhere that Carb Cleaner is ideal? The jet head (number 7 in the diagram) should move in the shaft when you engage the choke Drawing taken from a MG forum for illustration purposes.
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Post by Pete Collins on Mar 9, 2010 7:10:12 GMT
Dave Go back to an AED and put you car back in the unmodified class.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 9, 2010 8:06:54 GMT
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Mar 9, 2010 8:12:04 GMT
I won't react...its too early in the morning!
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Post by David on Mar 9, 2010 9:39:23 GMT
Pete I was tempted but after a bit of fiddling with them, they are working . I could not believe how seized they were - the old one I took off I could only removed with the aid of a vice, suitable sized punch and a heavy hammer - the jet is scrap. The other one, though stuck, did eventually work lose with some gentle persuasion. So both carbs were stripped down, cleaned and rebuilt. Just put them back on and I now have a working manual choke. Only the balancing and tuning to go - again! As for chap who I paid to restore them? Well, you know him and have visitied his 'workshop'
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Post by Colin McA on Mar 9, 2010 17:26:34 GMT
They no longer supply cleaning fluid with the colour tune kit for watever reason.
I think carb cleaner will be fine, I just use the wee brush on it.
Colin
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Post by David on Mar 9, 2010 19:13:28 GMT
Thanks Colin. I got to say, once sorted it was straighforward setting them up. My firend left the carb balancer and with the aid of additional tutorial (thanks Warwick) it took about 10 minutes to balance them and a further 20 minutes to tune them. As someone who cannot tell a ring spanner froma rachet, I am one well please Rover owner Still cannot believe the original carbs were fitted in the state they were in - oh well I guess you live and learn
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 9, 2010 19:24:14 GMT
The manual choke conversion was an official Rover mod because the AED's were so troublesome
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Post by Pete Collins on Mar 10, 2010 9:07:58 GMT
Admin said:- As for chap who I paid to restore them? Well, you know him and have visitied his 'workshop'
He was good with dogs.
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Post by Pete Collins on Mar 10, 2010 9:10:09 GMT
The manual choke conversion was an official Rover mod because the AED's were so troublesome Phil I know that. I was just winding Dave up.
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Post by David on Mar 10, 2010 9:16:10 GMT
Pete - There speaks a man with a wooden Rover door lock ;D As for the dogs, yes we bought one. But that's another story.
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Post by Pete Collins on Mar 10, 2010 9:42:04 GMT
Pete - There speaks a man with a wooden Rover door lock ;D As for the dogs, yes we bought one. But that's another story. Did the dog work or did its hair fall out.
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Post by David on Mar 10, 2010 9:51:07 GMT
No, the hair falling out is me
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 10, 2010 20:07:34 GMT
I know - I say replace the AED as much as I do say Use SEARCH. I almost go hydraulic lock when it poured petrol into 2 cylinders when trying to start it just after switching off when cold
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Post by p5pete on Mar 10, 2010 21:51:58 GMT
I know - I say replace the AED as much as I do say Use SEARCH. I almost go hydraulic lock when it poured petrol into 2 cylinders when trying to start it just after switching off when cold I could not understand why my oil level was going up until I watched the fuel go down faster than usual. The rubber diaphragm on the air shut off was riped in the AED so I was running on full choke. I got a kit from Burlin and have not had any trouble for the last five years. I made a setting tool.
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Post by David on Mar 11, 2010 9:19:16 GMT
My Rover had a Burlen fitting (the one with cams that fits on top the AED) and it worked great - highly recommended. It is the same manual conversion unit fitted to MkII Jags.
When the Rover came back it was fitted with a twin cabled direct choke to each carb, which again works fine.
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Post by David on May 21, 2010 8:28:40 GMT
Aaargh,
Decided the car needed a washover so started her up and took her out of the garage. She then stalled and despite all attempts she would not start.
So I replaced the coil (recently changed) Took all the spark plugs and cleaned and adjusted them (25 thou)
Started again, then died.
Disconnected the fuel line and turned over - plenty of fuel.
Started again then died.
Took off the air filter and manifolds and lifting the dashpots she again fired up. Adjusted tickover to around 1000 rpm just so she would not stop and guess what, she stopped!
Got her started again via the dashpot method and put her back in the garage.
Any thoughts please as she was starting and ticking over fine a couple of weeks ago
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