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Post by ozriderp5 on May 2, 2017 21:20:15 GMT
Oz, do the new nuts have the same convex profile as the originals? The reason I ask is that no one in the UK can supply a nut for the Rostyle which is the same as the original. I ordered a set from a well-known supplier a few years back but I was unhappy with the seating so reverted to the OE for the front.In fact, I'm having 10 originals rechromed at the moment and will put them back on. Here's the issue comparing old (left) and new. The replacement nuts shallower shoulder binds against the wheel recess and possibly doesn't seat as well. Further tightening to bottom it, grinds into the metal removing the paint not helped by any pre-existing wear in the wheel nut recess. Not a major issue but thought I would point it out. Thanks, I just had a look at the new ones and they have a bigger lip on them than the original open ended nuts I have. Angle wise the originals are so badly worn their round rather than angled. I've just had a look how they sit on the wheel and they should be ok. Paint's not an issue on my sorry rusty Rostyles. I've got the original 3 Litre wheels which I'll get some hupcaps for as dress ups when the car is finally restored.
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 6, 2017 7:21:40 GMT
It was like Christmas today, mailman and Couriers delivered a mixed bag of goodies.
Grill badge from NZ (Thanks Paul) Bushes, Bonnet Latch and rear brake cylinder kit from Wahdams. Windscreen washer kit to replace the pump I broke fixing the old hoses. (probably not original anyway) Chrome Acorn Nuts for the Rostyle wheels LED Bulbs
Busy weekend ahead
Washer kit is fitted already, it wash just the bottle and pump.
I'll clean and paint the wheels whilst their off to do the rear brakes and refit the refurbished Steering Box. I'll refit them with the new chrome nuts.
Once it has brakes and steering again I'll take it down and get the new tyres fitted.
Cleaned up surface rust in the engine bay caused by leaking brake fluid over the years, fitted the steering box, fixed a couple of rubbery bits and fitted a new bonnet latch. Picked up a pair of front Inertia seat belts out of a P5B today, a bit of minor tweaking to make mounting points and all will be well. Also picked up a top piece for the grill as someone has used a screwdriver or similar to open the bonnet at some time and destroyed mine. Tomorrow, rear brake seals and reline, weather permitting.
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Post by enigmas on May 6, 2017 9:46:51 GMT
Richard look up/research 'hydrogen embrittlement' in relation to chrome plating. Here's a couple of links for consideration. (Wheel nuts may not be an issue, but suspension, steering and brake components are; quite a few hot rodders and customizers in the past experienced catastrophic failure when these components failed after chrome plating. Why not ask John to fabricate a nice set out of stainless steel for you! en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlementwww.finishing.com/1600-1799/1747.shtml
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 6, 2017 11:39:38 GMT
Richard look up/research 'hydrogen embrittlement' in relation to chrome plating. Here's a couple of links for consideration. (Wheel nuts may not be an issue, but suspension, steering and brake components are; quite a few hot rodders and customizers in the past experienced catastrophic failure when these components failed after chrome plating. Why not ask John to fabricate a nice set out of stainless steel for you! en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlementwww.finishing.com/1600-1799/1747.shtmlI think you have the wrong thread
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Post by Warwick on May 6, 2017 23:51:39 GMT
An old friend (literally - he's now in his '90s) and the father of friends of mine, was the senior metallurgist at General Motors - Holdens (GMH) at their engine plant for most of his working life. He was heavily involved with their racing engine development for their dealer team cars in the heyday of production car racing in Australia. When he was helping me repair some rust damage on my first car, I remember asking him why towbars for Holdens weren't available with chrome-plated tongues, instead of just black paint. Weakening of the steel and the possibility of failure was his answer. I don't think he explained why and I probably didn't ask. I've remembered that since and often wondered when I've seen chromed-plated towbar tongues subsequently. I had no idea that it was related to hydrogen embrittlement until now. However, I am familiar with the problem having spent many years in the industrial gases industry and the problems associated with using steel pressure vessels for compressed hydrogen storage.
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 7, 2017 7:08:44 GMT
Cleaned up surface rust in the engine bay caused by leaking brake fluid over the years, fitted the steering box, fixed a couple of rubbery bits and fitted a new bonnet latch. Picked up a pair of front Inertia seat belts out of a P5B today, a bit of minor tweaking to make mounting points and all will be well. Also picked up a top piece for the grill as someone has used a screwdriver or similar to open the bonnet at some time and destroyed mine. Tomorrow, rear brake seals and reline, weather permitting. Today's summary - Full Brake reline - New seal kit in rear Wheel Cylinders - Dismantled wheel cylinder and Handbrake assembly - Lightly Honed inside of Wheel Cylinder - Cleaned all parts and rubbed down any rough edges - Bled the full system (Clear in, dark brown out ) - Replaced rear shock rubbers - Handbrake still requires further adjustment (fine as a park brake, useless as an emergency brake)
Next week
- New Tyres fitted (sitting on old 3 litre wheels with stuffed tyres at the moment, I'll drop the rostyle wheels and new tyres off somewhere.) - Hand brake adjustment - Front seat belts.
- Book it in for a RWC
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Post by petervdvelde on May 7, 2017 20:50:12 GMT
Nice job Oz!
Richard, i would not worry too much about the wheel nuts. If you look at the stud/ nut connection from an engineering point of view, the studs get much more load (a combination of direction changing bending forces with pull forces) then the wheel nuts so the risk is low. In practice you see that when a bolt/nut construction fails, it is almost always the bolt that breaks and not the nut. It is not only with chroming but also zinc coating (electro plating) causes hydrogen embrittlement so then blackened nuts should be used to avoid this but i wouldn't worry.
Peter
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 7, 2017 20:57:30 GMT
In 40 years of tinkering and owning cars I have only ever seen 1 wheel nut fail, it was not plated in anyway and it split.
It was probably a fine crack that just got worse.
That's over 30 cars as well as many trucks I've owned and worked on with steel, chrome plated and any other treatment.
I wouldn't be losing any sleep.
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Post by enigmas on May 7, 2017 22:18:33 GMT
Richard I didn't mean to freak you out with the hydrogen embrittlement issue...as I stated initially, most of the failures occurred when hot rodders, customizers or 'bling' lovers who have a penchant for chroming everything, do so with fasteners and components on stressed mechanical systems such as suspensions, brakes and steering components. It just good to have the knowledge so that you can consider any possible consequence that may follow.
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Post by Warwick on May 8, 2017 10:30:53 GMT
When you think about it, wheel nuts aren't done up particularly tight, unlike many other fasteners on cars.
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Post by enigmas on May 8, 2017 12:14:04 GMT
When I was an apprentice at Reagan Motors in 1968 Warwick, one of my tasks during servicing was to do full car wheel rotations. On the Peugeot 404s especially because of their very large drum brakes, was to tighten all the wheel nuts using a tension wrench. If a wheel brace was used in a ham fisted manner the drum would distort. Of hand I can't specifically recall the torque setting but I believe it was around 50-60 ft lbs.
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Post by Warwick on May 8, 2017 12:39:28 GMT
Big wheels and only 3 nuts doing all the work, where most others had 5.
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 10, 2017 6:57:35 GMT
Heeeelp!!! I'm looking for some assistance from experts.... Fitted new steering box - Turns exceptionally well to the left but hardly at all to the right? - Could the steering arm have been put back in the wrong position? Brake reline and bled - brakes are terrible and the Pedal is slow to release Smoke - Went to start it tonight and smoke started pouring from behind the binnacle, now I have no electrics - had a look at the wiring diagram and it's pretty basic, I'm guessing one of the cowboy electrical wires hanging off the ignition switch has fried it. Colours don't seem to match the wiring diagram though....
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 10, 2017 9:11:08 GMT
Is it a manual? if so did you mark the arm and shaft before removal? Just read your previous posts so I guess you didn't mark them before removal
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 10, 2017 10:02:39 GMT
Is it a manual? if so did you mark the arm and shaft before removal? Just read your previous posts so I guess you didn't mark them before removal As per previous posts I bought it as a replacement, I didn't take it off, it may have moved when refitting the bearings. I set the box to half way and fitted it with the wheels straight. I'll check how it turns in relation to the stops and go from there, easy enough to pull of and refit if required.
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Post by enigmas on May 11, 2017 0:33:15 GMT
Take a look at the Power Brake unit...it most likely requires an overhaul. As an aside...does the system release when the engine's not running, ie, no power assistance.
If it's a drum braked car, the residual line pressure valve may be compromised.
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 11, 2017 3:47:50 GMT
Take a look at the Power Brake unit...it most likely requires an overhaul. As an aside...does the system release when the engine's not running, ie, no power assistance. If it's a drum braked car, the residual line pressure valve may be compromised. Front Disk on it, brakes where fine prior to the rear reline and full bleed, now they are horrible and sticking. I done the old press the pedal and start the engine test which worked as planned, pedal went down as engine started. Unfortunately that's when the ignition started billowing smoke and died. There was a lot of crap come out during the bleeding, could dirt be stuck somewhere?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 11, 2017 15:01:34 GMT
Check the servo has not got brake fluid in it? was the smoke white?
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 11, 2017 19:51:53 GMT
Check the servo has not got brake fluid in it? was the smoke white? Smoke from the binnacle was white, definitely electrical. How do I check for oil in the servo? Does it come apart?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 11, 2017 20:02:11 GMT
Ah!! not white smoke out the exhaust servo may be ok if you haven't got a service manual leave well alone!!
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 11, 2017 20:13:38 GMT
Ah!! not white smoke out the exhaust servo may be ok if you haven't got a service manual leave well alone!! The Service Manual I do have may as well be written in crayon. Autobooks.
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 11, 2017 21:17:33 GMT
You need to get a proper Workshop Manual asap as most advice given on here won't make much sense otherwise! Often on Ebay and from the club. Any recommendations?
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Post by Warwick on May 12, 2017 4:34:08 GMT
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Post by ozriderp5 on May 12, 2017 21:12:35 GMT
Thanks, are they comprehensive? The one I currently have shows nothing.
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Post by Warwick on May 13, 2017 1:12:10 GMT
Sometimes it's handy to have both an original factory manual, and one published by someone else (Autobooks, Haynes, etc.) for the reason that Richard gives.
Something to bear in mind however is that reproduction factory manuals tend to be reduced in size to reduce the shear volume of paper and, presumably, the cost of production. They are printed with 2 pages on one. This makes some of the diagrams a bit hard to read without the aid of a magnifying glass.
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