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Post by ozriderp5 on Sept 19, 2017 8:51:41 GMT
Two things, no make that three things happen to float senders: 1) the nichrome wire oxidises and not longer makes electrical contact with the wiper 2) the wiper becomes fatiguied and does not press on the nichrome wire 3) the contact between the micrhome wire and the externa, connection becomes defective through oxidation (or physical breakage). So try gently painting the nichrome with pure diluted phosphoric acid and then working the wiper a little to imrove contact. And Number 3 is the winner........... For $50 I'm buying an aftermarket one that fits a S1 Landrover.
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Post by djm16 on Sept 20, 2017 1:51:57 GMT
hang on to the old one for repair. I bet the aftermarket one dies within 6 months.
With care it is possible to rejoin a broken wire. Nichrome can be soldered with silver containing solder and acid flux. Acc to the internet, you just tin the nichrome with silver solder and then use normal electrical solder to join it to a piece of copper wire.
What I have also done is to clean up the nichrome with a scalpel, make a loop in the end, loop a length of copper wire (also cleaned) through it and twist it tight. After prep with a drop of phosphoric acid, I then get a blob of electrical solder to cover the twisted loops. This is not as good as the above, but it has worked for me so far.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Sept 20, 2017 3:46:24 GMT
hang on to the old one for repair. I bet the aftermarket one dies within 6 months. With care it is possible to rejoin a broken wire. Nichrome can be soldered with silver containing solder and acid flux. Acc to the internet, you just tin the nichrome with silver solder and then use normal electrical solder to join it to a piece of copper wire. What I have also done is to clean up the nichrome with a scalpel, make a loop in the end, loop a length of copper wire (also cleaned) through it and twist it tight. After prep with a drop of phosphoric acid, I then get a blob of electrical solder to cover the twisted loops. This is not as good as the above, but it has worked for me so far. The wire, as it turns out, is broken halfway through the wind. It started unravelling when I started working on it. I'll hang onto it and eventually rewind it. I haven't had a fuel gauge since I bought it so anything will be an improvement 😊.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Oct 7, 2017 6:44:27 GMT
I've been playing with the centre console etc as well as the gauges. Replacement fuel gauge seems to working, not quite sure on that yet. This is the final version (gauges not wired yet) the grumpy old man sign just happened to cover up some holes I had made for switches. I'll leave it for a while until I make a new panel.... and I'll bet people still ask me what it is when their looking inside . Fitted the radio that was in the car when I bought it only to find it's dead , ordered a retro ish looking one of ebay. Still has bluetooth, hands free car phone, mp3 etc. Speakers are mounted either side of the floor console under the dash. (Pictures always make everything look crooked) To Do list to make it a daily driver....(not that it will be). Fit Electric Fan before summer Fit New seatbelts Get gauges all working.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Oct 9, 2017 7:52:00 GMT
Replaced the screws with black ones. The white lettering didn't work on the heater / screen controls, as I scraped it off I found it's actually alloy underneath so I polished them up and did the lettering black.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Oct 14, 2017 0:38:13 GMT
The replacement cable arrived for the manual kickdown so I found a new home for it. Much more practical than the original position and infinitely better than the previous owners solution.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Oct 18, 2017 1:11:37 GMT
Fitted the new radio, a bit more retro than the other one.
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Post by enigmas on Oct 18, 2017 9:07:20 GMT
Hi Oz, I sure somewhere you mentioned lowering the rear of your car using lowering blocks...if so, did you make them...and what about the longer U bolts required...did you also have these made?
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Post by ozriderp5 on Oct 18, 2017 19:14:02 GMT
Hi Oz, I sure somewhere you mentioned lowering the rear of your car using lowering blocks...if so, did you make them...and what about the longer U bolts required...did you also have these made? Hi Vince, no they are just commercially available blocks and ubolts. Pretty common for old leaf spring cars, hundreds on eBay in all different heights. I bought the Ubolts at Autobarn, lowering blocks come with the car.
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Post by enigmas on Oct 18, 2017 22:04:40 GMT
They would have to be for an SD1 Rover...I can't imagine there'd be anything for a P5. Do you have any details Oz? What size/thickness lowering blocks were the ones you used?
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Post by ozriderp5 on Oct 19, 2017 2:58:31 GMT
They would have to be for an SD1 Rover...I can't imagine there'd be anything for a P5. Do you have any details Oz? What size/thickness lowering blocks were the ones you used? If it's not raining when I get home I'll measure them and let you know.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Oct 19, 2017 7:51:23 GMT
They would have to be for an SD1 Rover...I can't imagine there'd be anything for a P5. Do you have any details Oz? What size/thickness lowering blocks were the ones you used? If it's not raining when I get home I'll measure them and let you know. Hi Vince I've used a 1.5" block, Ubolts are from Autobarn, receipt says PE01828 UB85 - 85mm with nuts. They will have to be at least 1.5" longer than stock to allow for the block, I got them a lot longer which allowed me to fit them and then jack the car up to slide the block into place then tighten them progressively to keep it all straight. Again, pretty standard stuff for most Aussie classics and 4x4's with leaf springs, ebay has them in all shapes and sizes. Here's a comparison... Lowered when I first bought it Standard for the RWC Very little difference in ride in a straight line, a fairly big difference going around a roundabout or corner. I've wound down the front as well, I'll play with that till I'm happy. Previous owner just took out the adjusters completely.
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Post by enigmas on Oct 19, 2017 9:48:17 GMT
Thanks OZ...for a P5 my car is quite low. I have tweaked quite a few components front and rear already but would still like the rear a bit lower...a 1.5" drop would be ample, even from where it currently sits.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 4, 2017 7:52:04 GMT
Pulled the front bumper and grill off today to fit the thermo fan. I'll wire it to a manual switch for the moment, it will eventually be set up with a thermo switch.
Nothing worse than getting caught up in a Melbourne traffic jam in 40+ degrees.
Car has been dinged a bit at the front underneath so I couldn't get to the nuts with the bumper on.
The grill was also damaged on the bottom rail so I straightened it the best I could, not perfect but at least it's straight.
The steel frame under the chrome trim was pretty rusty, I think I got to it just in time as it was bad in spots.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 5, 2017 5:52:24 GMT
Here's a couple of photos from today. Car's still a bit of a Rat Rod, it will stay that way until it's respray time. Roddy the Rover
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 7, 2017 7:35:48 GMT
My grill is in a bad way and needs replaced so whats your view on a black grill as a stop gap? I actually picked up a new top section but it doesn't fit.....they must have changed it after mine was made. Photoshopped.....
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bobh
Rover Rookie
Posts: 29
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Post by bobh on Nov 9, 2017 22:44:52 GMT
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 10, 2017 20:09:11 GMT
I tried it on my Ford but it was hard to work with and didn't look all that good. I went with a smaller metal mesh. (it's actually black, looks grey in the photo)
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 18, 2017 8:21:06 GMT
Bumpers removed and grill painted black, very 50's hot rod. Nothing that can't be put back to stock when, if, the time comes.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 19, 2017 9:19:33 GMT
I made up a couple of covers fro the rear, I don't want to modify the bumper mounts in any way. By the time they have a reflector and a reversing sensor added to each one they'll look like they belong.
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Post by Eric R on Nov 19, 2017 10:26:39 GMT
where will you place the reversing sensors - on the chrome bumper or painted panel/s?
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 19, 2017 19:19:40 GMT
where will you place the reversing sensors - on the chrome bumper or painted panel/s? I'm actually fitting them onto the plates I just fitted, I'll only fit 2 sensors. Bumpers are off for a while.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 25, 2017 7:57:55 GMT
Fitted the reflectors, it'll do for a while. Call it a Rat Rod and you can get away with murder.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 25, 2017 8:09:24 GMT
Fitted window bailey channel rubbers today, dry, impossible, with WD40, easy . Rears ok, passenger front reasonable, drivers side shocking. Previous owner siliconed it up, it's a mess, both front door window frames appear to be twisted with the windows not lining up. Anyway, when their closed it should seal better than before, Hopefully it will settle in. Next job.... I bought a new rear muffler as it had been replaced with a straight through pipe. I'll cut the pipe off and weld in the muffler tomorrow, weather permitting. I'll also weld up any existing weld holes that are currently bogged with exhaust putty.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Nov 27, 2017 9:17:23 GMT
Fitted the reflectors, it'll do for a while. Call it a Rat Rod and you can get away with murder. Bumpers are going back on....rear looks great, front looks awful. The P5 has a swept up curve under the front bumper whereas the P5B has a straight panel across the front. Not a huge difference with the bumpers on, massive difference with them off.
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