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Post by enigmas on Apr 11, 2017 23:22:11 GMT
Very useful detailed pix Richard. As a side note, I've dissassembled and regreased the top and bottom ball joints on my coupe 3 times in 24 years (the car was in daily use). The only real issue is the abysmal quality of the repro dust/grease boots due to the poor quality rubber(?) that deteriorates at the convolutions after a short time with regular use. Also, the hole on the larger ball joint boot (lower suspension arm) needs to be made larger with a dremel or similar tool.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Apr 12, 2017 8:30:04 GMT
I'm about to replace the boot on one of these so great timing.
I did find a broken ball on the floor in the back though, sheared off above the threaded bit.
I wondered what it was.
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Post by enigmas on Apr 12, 2017 10:44:36 GMT
How one of those ball joints would/could snap is beyond me! I have never seen a bigger ball joint either top or bottom on any of the OZ Fords and Holdens made in Australia including the big inch GT Falcons and Holden Monaros of the late 60s - 70s fitted with 350ci V8s.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Apr 12, 2017 12:43:10 GMT
How one of those ball joints would/could snap is beyond me! I have never seen a bigger ball joint either top or bottom on any of the OZ Fords and Holdens made in Australia including the big inch GT Falcons and Holden Monaros of the late 60s - 70s fitted with 350ci V8s. It is in the car somewhere, I wouldn't have thrown it out, it's shiny....I'll look tomorrow.
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Post by nz on Apr 12, 2017 19:56:09 GMT
*****4) Get a good fitting socket ( I think it's 3/4" AF from memory) The plug will be tight and it is easy to round off.****
I think a 6-sided 3/4" socket would be the go. A 'normal' 12 sided one could round that brass off. Paul. NZ.
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Post by Warwick on Apr 13, 2017 3:02:21 GMT
David, Phil or John, Can we make this a sticky please?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 13, 2017 7:02:44 GMT
Ok Warwick
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Post by ozriderp5 on Apr 14, 2017 2:20:54 GMT
I'm about to replace the boot on one of these so great timing. I did find a broken ball on the floor in the back though, sheared off above the threaded bit. I wondered what it was. Found the shiny ball, obviously not a ball joint... Not sure what it's off, it's actually a magnet.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Apr 17, 2017 10:08:03 GMT
I replaced the boot on the top ball joint on my MK1 today. The later boots have a steel plate in the bottom so don't need the bottom 'channel' for the rubber to sit. Basically I ground down the two lips so the fitting would fit inside the new boot and reassembled with no problems. Apologies, should have taken photos for reference. (though it doesn't appear that there are many MK1's around anyway.) Artistic licence......
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Post by Ken Nelson on May 22, 2018 21:23:08 GMT
Thanks dicky, great pictures again as before. You could do far worse than having one of these ball joints replacing an actual hip joint!
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Post by enigmas on Jun 9, 2018 23:35:25 GMT
You need to use a suitable socket...if the socket has a bevelled edge it will need to be 'ground' off so that the socket fully engages/grips the full depth of the brass hex nut. With a suitable pin punch hammer back/release the peened down areas of the brass nut secured into the 2 locking recesses of the housing. You will need a large vice to hold the suspension arm and a long bar on the socket...perhaps with a tube extension to increase leverage. If the socket is a firm fit as it shoud be the brass nut will release without any damage to the hex head.
NB. When you've cleaned, regreased and refitted the components, tighten the brass nut firmly (to remove all play) but do not lock it up. There should be some resistance when checking the movement of the ball...firm but not seized. Now peen the brass nut edges into the housing recesses. This will most likely be in a different position.
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Post by harvey on Jun 10, 2018 17:31:34 GMT
Not heard of those for a while. A "budget" range sold off the Snap-on van back when I were a lad, and as good as the full price Snap-on stuff if you ask me, which you probably won't.......
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