tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
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Post by tonys on Feb 24, 2019 16:04:51 GMT
It's 'probably' either the new sensor or the gauge but that's easy to say when it isn't yours . Do you have access to, or can you get, an infra-red thermometer? That might help by giving you an indication of the actual temperatures at various locations. It clearly won't be definitive but you might get a better idea of temperatures entering and leaving the radiator, for example. I'm assuming the new thermostat wasn't accidentally fitted upside down, ie bleed hole at the bottom?
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 24, 2019 18:50:58 GMT
Good idea on the thermometer and YES I made sure I fitted the thermostat the right way up and right way round too. LOL. Done hundreds of them in my time to know that one buddy. LOL
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Post by lagain on Feb 24, 2019 19:42:59 GMT
Just had a look at my Kenlowe dial and it is set on the second segment after the 'N'
But it is quite old and the design may be different now
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 25, 2019 9:52:30 GMT
If your able to post up a picture George of your dial for comparison that would be most helpful to me. Cheers
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Post by Ken Nelson on Feb 25, 2019 17:12:57 GMT
Regarding reducing picture size to be able to post them: I found that if I send a copy of my picture to myself in an email I can pick Actual, Large, Medium, or Small size in the email. I pick Medium and once I receive it the picture is downsized enough to use for posting. Perhaps not the 'right' way, but it seems to work.
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Post by lagain on Feb 25, 2019 18:49:08 GMT
If your able to post up a picture George of your dial for comparison that would be most helpful to me. Cheers
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 26, 2019 12:30:34 GMT
If your able to post up a picture George of your dial for comparison that would be most helpful to me. Cheers Cheers George. I take it you use the lock screw as your marker setting as I do. I will re-set my marker to the " N " position and try it out next time I run her up and see what occurs. Yours is the exact same as mine too. Regards, Brendan
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Post by notenoughtime on Feb 26, 2019 18:44:05 GMT
Nothing as usual
I need to get the rover running as had oil pressure issues which I’ve done a oil change but can’t get the dizzy out to prime the oil pump
any ideas!
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Post by lagain on Feb 26, 2019 19:03:59 GMT
Nothing as usual I need to get the rover running as had oil pressure issues which I’ve done a oil change but can’t get the dizzy out to prime the oil pump any ideas! Presumably you do not have any pressure ? On the occasions that I have had to prime the pump I have done it from underneath, remove the filter, remove the pump cover and the gears, then fill the space with vaseline (petroleum jelly), replace the gears, cover and filter and away she should go. The problem would be with the gasket if it gets damaged as you would need a new one. I have never removed the distributor as there is the problem of getting it back in and setting it up.
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Post by notenoughtime on Feb 26, 2019 20:02:53 GMT
Thank for your reply
yes that was my next move obviously it’s been sitting for 25 years before I bought it, if I can get the jag off the ramp by Saturday I’ll get the rover on and we possibly will have some forward movement both in progress and actually by engine power lol
it might help the enthusiasm
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Feb 27, 2019 9:43:37 GMT
Nothing as usual I need to get the rover running as had oil pressure issues which I’ve done a oil change but can’t get the dizzy out to prime the oil pump any ideas! It will come just stuck by corrosion there is an O ring and that's it!
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 27, 2019 16:48:13 GMT
I take it then guys this procedure is ONLY for cars that have been OUT OF USE for a very long time??? surely this procedure is not required every time the oil and filter is changed on a car used on a regular basis??? I hope not anyway.
Well ive also been busy on mine again today in the sunshine. My other roll of Denso tape arrived so ive done both rear leaf springs now. Looks great. Also fitted 2 x new rear foglights which arrived and they look a lot better as the old ones were well past it condition wise.
I then ran mine up and adjusted the Kenlow fan switch as suggested by George and all seems ok now. She kicks in and out as its supposed to do albeit temp guage is still sitting at the top white line below the red zone moving slightly down a tad. Ive decided nowt is wrong and will monitor it closely when driving her.
I also got my Aston Martin down off my lift and placed it and my Rover along side each other on the driveway and took some pictures of them both togeather. Best of British as they say. LOL
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Post by notenoughtime on Feb 27, 2019 19:58:31 GMT
Nothing as usual I need to get the rover running as had oil pressure issues which I’ve done a oil change but can’t get the dizzy out to prime the oil pump any ideas! It will come just stuck by corrosion there is an O ring and that's it! I feel like I’m actually going to break the dizzy body if I put any more force on it
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Post by notenoughtime on Feb 27, 2019 20:01:42 GMT
I take it then guys this procedure is ONLY for cars that have been OUT OF USE for a very long time??? surely this procedure is not required every time the oil and filter is changed on a car used on a regular basis??? I hope not anyway! You shouldn’t get this issue if it’s used as the pump has dried up over the years on mine the Vaseline trick should work though
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Post by enigmas on Feb 28, 2019 0:13:56 GMT
It's 'probably' either the new sensor or the gauge but that's easy to say when it isn't yours . Do you have access to, or can you get, an infra-red thermometer? That might help by giving you an indication of the actual temperatures at various locations. It clearly won't be definitive but you might get a better idea of temperatures entering and leaving the radiator, for example. I'm assuming the new thermostat wasn't accidentally fitted upside down, ie bleed hole at the bottom? * Here's a simple way to know the engine temperature accurately...all the time...if you need to know? The gauge has been in place for well over a decade well before I refurbished the engine/trans/under bonnet area.
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tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
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Post by tonys on Feb 28, 2019 9:31:54 GMT
I take it then guys this procedure is ONLY for cars that have been OUT OF USE for a very long time??? surely this procedure is not required every time the oil and filter is changed on a car used on a regular basis??? I hope not anyway. Brendan There is a school of thought that suggests that older Rover V8 engines (incl. all P5B) run a slight risk of the oil pump needing priming after an oil change, and to negate that risk many suggest that the sump is drained/filled and then the filter is changed, ie not both together, and that the filter is pre-filled with oil prior to fitting. This issue supposedly disappeared with the introduction of the serpentine engine (one long drive belt, different oil pump) in the mid-late nineties. I can't say I've seen it discussed on the P5 forum and I don't know whether anybody on here has experienced problems, but it certainly been raised numerous times on various TVR forums over the years. It's also covered in one of the TVR manuals and it states that the most important point is not to leave the filter off for too long (ie don't get interrupted or have a cup of tea ), ie remove old filter and immediately replace with the pre-filled new filter, reducing the risk of the pump draining completely. Others have suggested initially spinning the engine over, after an oil change, with the HT lead disconnected, as a belt and braces approach, to ensure the pressure's building up. My own view is that it has obviously been an issue for some people, otherwise it wouldn't have been raised, but hasn't been an issue for most people, but a few simple steps should address any concerns/risk, however slight. I'm not convinced that draining the sump and filter separately would address the issue but I do support the view of replacing the filter quickly and can see how that would work.
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 28, 2019 10:52:21 GMT
Cheers Tony, I also feel the same way and have ALWAYS primed filters before re-fitting them so I think i'll be fine. Im an " old skool " trained mechanic too so understand all the differing ways folk do things.
Enigma's, Yes I think I shall buy one of those in-line water hose temp gauges and install like you have done for a visual engine bay reading. Cheers.
Regards, Brendan
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Post by Warwick on Feb 28, 2019 13:07:12 GMT
....There is a school of thought that suggests that older Rover V8 engines (incl. all P5B) run a slight risk of the oil pump needing priming after an oil change, and to negate that risk many suggest that the sump is drained/filled and then the filter is changed, ie not both together, and that the filter is pre-filled with oil prior to fitting. This issue supposedly disappeared with the introduction of the serpentine engine (one long drive belt, different oil pump) in the mid-late nineties. ..... I haven't heard it before. Although I haven't had much experience with the P5B engine, I've owned 3.5L Range Rovers since the mid-'80s and belonged to the Land-Rover Club down here. Until more recent years, I did my own oil changes and did them like any other engine. Oil pressure always appeared as soon as expected when restarting the engines after oil and filter changes.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Feb 28, 2019 15:20:17 GMT
....There is a school of thought that suggests that older Rover V8 engines (incl. all P5B) run a slight risk of the oil pump needing priming after an oil change, and to negate that risk many suggest that the sump is drained/filled and then the filter is changed, ie not both together, and that the filter is pre-filled with oil prior to fitting. This issue supposedly disappeared with the introduction of the serpentine engine (one long drive belt, different oil pump) in the mid-late nineties. ..... I haven't heard it before. Although I haven't had much experience with the P5B engine, I've owned 3.5L Range Rovers since the mid-'80s and belonged to the Land-Rover Club down here. Until more recent years, I did my own oil changes and did them like any other engine. Oil pressure always appeared as soon as expected when restarting the engines after oil and filter changes. My Coupe is laid up from Sept to April Warwick, I remove the fuel pump feed and crank until I get oil pressure! reconnect the fuel pump then run the engine a short road run then I change the filter and oil if it needs it or not using Penrite oil
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Post by enigmas on Mar 1, 2019 0:04:38 GMT
I take it then guys this procedure is ONLY for cars that have been OUT OF USE for a very long time??? surely this procedure is not required every time the oil and filter is changed on a car used on a regular basis??? I hope not anyway. Brendan There is a school of thought that suggests that older Rover V8 engines (incl. all P5B) run a slight risk of the oil pump needing priming after an oil change, and to negate that risk many suggest that the sump is drained/filled and then the filter is changed, ie not both together, and that the filter is pre-filled with oil prior to fitting. This issue supposedly disappeared with the introduction of the serpentine engine (one long drive belt, different oil pump) in the mid-late nineties. I can't say I've seen it discussed on the P5 forum and I don't know whether anybody on here has experienced problems, but it certainly been raised numerous times on various TVR forums over the years. It's also covered in one of the TVR manuals and it states that the most important point is not to leave the filter off for too long (ie don't get interrupted or have a cup of tea ), ie remove old filter and immediately replace with the pre-filled new filter, reducing the risk of the pump draining completely. Others have suggested initially spinning the engine over, after an oil change, with the HT lead disconnected, as a belt and braces approach, to ensure the pressure's building up. My own view is that it has obviously been an issue for some people, otherwise it wouldn't have been raised, but hasn't been an issue for most people, but a few simple steps should address any concerns/risk, however slight. I'm not convinced that draining the sump and filter separately would address the issue but I do support the view of replacing the filter quickly and can see how that would work. No! Never encounted it with either my P5 coupe or SD1 V8 powered MG Magnette. I haven't had the V8 engine in my coupe apart (excluding welsh plugs, water pump & timing chain set in over 25 years (its done well over 300km) and the last time I primed the oil pump (on this engine) was when I built it in 1992! * If the pump has to be constantly reprimed after each oil and filter change someones made a muck of refurbishing the oil pump tolerances during the rebuild. * As far as the oil filter is concerned I fill it on the bench before refitting it...this minimises the pump sucking air.
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Post by lagain on Mar 1, 2019 19:01:56 GMT
Gave her a polish today in readiness for the spring. Used my favourite Autoglym Super Resin.
The Autoglym is totally non abrasive, so is perfect for my, in places, rather thin paint.
Years ago I used to use Mer and soon realised that every time I polished her I was sick in the night, from the fumes !
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Post by Brendan69 on Mar 2, 2019 10:46:29 GMT
Plus that Mer is quite abrasive too George. Stick with your Autoglym as I do.
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Post by David on Mar 3, 2019 11:35:30 GMT
Autoglym Super Resin is ideal, especially for light coloured cars as it fills in any swirl marks. It will however wash off quite easily, so to seal it in, apply a decent wax such as Autoglyms High Definition Wax - it is expensive, but a little of which goes a long way. I am still using mine after five + years!
For dark coloured cars I would recommend Poorboys Black Hole, which again fills swirl marks, followed by Poorboys Natty Paste (available in a range of colours, so also suitable on light cars), again to seal it in - a test report on Poorboys will be found in the April issue of 'Take Five'. ;-)
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Post by Brendan69 on Mar 4, 2019 10:08:54 GMT
Ive used them all over the years but always keep sticking with good olde Autoglym products.
I use the High definition canuba wax myself and still on my original tub after about 6 years and its still half full. For dark cars I use the ultra deep shine which was specially formulated for dark coloured cars and I also use the aqua wax too using a damp applicator pad and this is really good for a quick polish up.
Mostly though I use the QD quick detailer which is brilliant and I have also used the show shine in the spray can. You can pick up all the above quite cheap on ebay and non of them are expensive.
Saturday morning I took mine down to where I work part time and put her up on the summers lifts so I could give her a 100% inspection under good light. Worked out in my head a few jobs to do later in the year so i'll start buying what I need from JRW in readiness. My autum/winter project will be rear axle off and refurbished/painted and new brake pipe set fitted and maybe a new full SS zorst system.
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Post by David on Mar 4, 2019 10:17:25 GMT
Yes, there are some good polishes and waxes out there. If I need to go that extra bit, try Menzerna (Final Finish and Polymer Seal), which isn't one of the high street polishes, but is great to get a swirl free car. You do, however, need to apply it with a machine, unless you have arms like Popeye.
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