P5B Coupe door locks

[martinbay1]

I've just had the bodywork on my P5B Coupe restored, but I have a problem with the locks and strike plates.  I've adjusted them as much as I can, but they still are not shutting or locking properly.  Does anyone have a set of door locks & strike plates available to sell? Martin

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[johnwp5bcoupe]

Jan 30, 2019 15:33:08 GMT martinbay1 said:

I've just had the bodywork on my P5B Coupe restored, but I have a problem with the locks and strike plates.  I've adjusted them as much as I can, but they still are not shutting or locking properly.  Does anyone have a set of door locks & strike plates available to sell? Martin

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Are you sure the locks and plates are your problem Martin? most unusual!

[lagain]

It could be a case of fiddle, fiddle, fiddle until you get them right.
If you have new door rubbers they may be keeping the doors from closing

[enigmas]

Martin I concur with George regarding the door locks. Unless the latch is in exactly the correct 'position' with regard to angle and height the doors will not latch correctly and will lift or stay ajar.
If you have one door on the car that closes correctly replicate the position (angle & height) of that latch precisely.

* New (repro) door seals will interfere with correct door closure (as they are solid rubber and take time to conform)
It's best to correct door closure and panel alignment without new seals in place.


Other points

On level ground place a small spirit level on top of the latch and note the angle. Now replicate that angle on the other malfunctioning door latches.




Ensure the small spring loaded 'tapered sliding block' at the rear of the latch is free to move and not jambed.

Mark the initial position of the latch before removal. Use masking tape carefully placed around its perimeter so that the initial location is not lost.

You may also need to space the latch out from the B or C pillars for most effective engagement. (Trace around the latch on thin cardboard (breakfast cereal containers) to make thin shims. Punch holes where appropriate.

Add a smear of grease to both latch locating screws to ease removal and refit for future adjustment if required.

* This tedious method may take several hours of careful observation and adjustment until you get the relationship of latch and door catch in correct relationship.

* This also presumes the car doors are hung correctly and not sagging. They should fit the door aperture correctly with the latches removed. The door latch should not lift the door! If so...the door is incorrectly hung. Card board shims under the bottom door latch will lift it if sagged or the lower hinge is slightly worn. (No need to ask how I know this procedure)

[martinbay1]

Many thanks. They are indeed new rubbers and that was my initial thought since they closed fine with the old original rubbers.  I can either wait another 45 years for the rubbers to wear in or try your method ........think I'll try yours!

[johnwp5bcoupe]

Just as well you wont wait 45 years Martin they will need changing before then I would say the fronts are worse than the rears on closing?

[Brendan69]

Im still NOT looking forward to doing my new door seals. Done the boot lid and that has made a massive difference in terms of closing the lid down. In time the new seal will no doubt settle in.