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Post by Sam Bee on Mar 20, 2019 22:45:14 GMT
I am preparing my base unit before it goes off for pyrolysis
stripping. I am seeking advice on two things, both about ensuring that the body does not distort. Underneath is an intermediate cross member with a removable centre piece (parts catalogue p.1806 item 13) and the big cover on the tunnel. Is it safe to remove both these or should temporary bracing be provided?
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Post by djm16 on Mar 21, 2019 1:37:16 GMT
I am impressed that you have gone to so much trouble. The work in removing absolutely everything from a P5, cataloguing it and storing it must be immense.
Although I have never heat stripped an entire car myself, if I were to do that, I would add temporary bracing, including an underbody frame that enbables the shell to be lifted and moved without contacting the shell directly. I have a 3-litre with minimal rust and solid subframe, yet when I jack it up and support it on two axle stands under the front two jacking points, the drivers door becomes a little harder to close, indicating some shell distortion.
I have also noted that pyrolysis ovens operate at 800F, which is 200F over the melting point of lead. You may wish for all the Rover-applied lead to be removed. Then again you may not.
Then there is the question of whether you e-coat right after stripping to get the best rust protection, or after welding repairs, by which time the shell will have accumulated contamination and more rust.
Me, what do I know? But I would brace the shell with some hefty steel box section, and e-coat right after stripping.
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Post by Sam Bee on Mar 21, 2019 10:48:31 GMT
As you say, it has taken 9 months average of 3 days a week. I note what you advise but await others with more experience of this. The process includes immediate undercoat application once bare metal. Many thanks for the interest.
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Mar 21, 2019 11:59:22 GMT
Hi Sam,
IIRC I saw an original photo of the production line and P5 shells were being moved via tubes into the jacking points. As a bare shell there will be hardly any weight or 'stress' on the shell compared to one fully loaded with heavy parts and running gear. Your car is not a basket case by any means so I would say the jacking points (even after 48 years) are more than man enough to support the shell during transportation and dipping/stripping.
Regarding the gearbox tunnel and centre piece, the tunnel cover is just a cover. Removing that will do no harm, just make sure it gets stripped with everything else (as long as its steel). The intermediate cross member I cannot picture but why not just leave it in place to be sure. It will still be stripped and its one less thing to bolt back on afterwards!
There is a chap called Tim (sorry cant remember the last name) his avatar is a fully stripped bodyshell, maybe he had his stripped too?
Roy
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Post by Warwick on Mar 21, 2019 12:11:44 GMT
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Post by Sam Bee on Mar 22, 2019 22:46:59 GMT
Roy, many thanks for that advice, most reassuring. I have spoken to Enviro Strip and they conclude the same. I may make up a bar to act as a brace across the tunnel in place of the box section I referred, which is the centre section of the intermediate cross-member to which the rear of the sub-frame is attached. I shall contact Warwick.
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Post by Sam Bee on Mar 22, 2019 22:49:02 GMT
Correction!! That should be Tim.
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