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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Nov 13, 2023 13:29:29 GMT
Congratulations with a well working engine.
Always a relief when these engines run well and when they do they are very smooth and satisfying.
Did the workshop come with a plausible explanation HOW and WHERE the engine lost so much oil ?
Since you did not have any blue smoke, the oil could not have entered the cumbustion chamber.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 14, 2023 8:12:18 GMT
The exhaust manifold clamps may have been fitted the wrong way round? This a common error and can result in leaks and a cracked manifold. The curved face MUST face away from the block. The nuts must be only tightened a quarter turn to allow for expansion.
If joint still leaks or gives a tapping noise like a loose tappet then the manifold must be face planed flat. This can only be done a couple of times before the branches become too thin and then distort again quickly.
Wadhams does new castings
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Post by djm16 on Nov 16, 2023 4:17:58 GMT
When you take the exhaust manifold off, run a straight edge across the ports. The manifold frequently distorts with age and will not seal again without excessive tightening of the nuts holding it to the block. If there is any light under the straight edge, then have it skimmed.
Carefully inspect the manifold for crazing and cracking, particularly around 3 and 4.
I also used copious nickel grease when reassembling. It squidges flat and then sets hard with exhaust heat, but still comes apart easily.
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break23m
Rover Rookie
Getting a 3 Litre Mk II automatic back on the road
Posts: 49
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Post by break23m on Nov 16, 2023 13:54:16 GMT
The manifold has been checked and skimmed. It is assembled 'dry'. Adding nickel-grease sounds like a good idea. For now I'll just try tighting the nuts.
And the loosing of oil was due to more than one failing seal, the oil just dripped out of the enqine.
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Nov 16, 2023 14:47:40 GMT
Very interesting read ! I have struggled with this type of noise for a long time, and never suspected the exhaust manifold not fitting tightly to the engine block.
Do you use nickel grease only, as a sealing material, or do you use it in combination with exhaust gaskets ?
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break23m
Rover Rookie
Getting a 3 Litre Mk II automatic back on the road
Posts: 49
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Post by break23m on Nov 16, 2023 14:53:27 GMT
This is a question for #djm16 - but I think the gaskets are essential.
I had a failing gasket once on a Citroen DS, it was totally blown away on all cylinders. It sounded like a very noisy Harley Davidson motorcycle. On the Rover the noise is far less, the gasket is leaking but still there.
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Post by djm16 on Nov 17, 2023 5:20:48 GMT
Yes, gaskets and nickel grease.
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break23m
Rover Rookie
Getting a 3 Litre Mk II automatic back on the road
Posts: 49
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Post by break23m on Nov 30, 2023 16:12:49 GMT
Drove to the garage today through a cold, foggy and busy morning rush hour. Over salted roads - that was not part of the plan. The verdict: not a leaking seal but a crack in the outlet manifold was the noisy problem. Another exhaust manifold was installed will I was waiting. I have to pay for the manifold but the hours are covered by the repair warranty.
A trip through a winter morning rush hour teaches me a few things about this car. The heater is guite good, but it takes some time to warm up, in combination with the two speed blower quite effective at clearing the windscreen. What I already expected: a DC dynamo is a great way to increase the stress in a traffic jam. Lights, blower, windshield wipers and radio ensure that the ammeter turns completely to the extreme of the minus scale when standing still and driving slowly. When idling, the red light comes on to draw your attention to the draining of the battery . Only when the traffic jam starts moving again will you see a positive value again and the ammeter will drop. I was surprised how quickly the alternator recharged everything.
When the engine and gearbox were out of the car, I had the 'fixed shift points' on intermediate hold adjusted downwards, approximately 30 km/h to second 2 and 70 km/h to top. Someone told me that this also adjusts the kickdown switching points downwards - I was able to try that today. It turns out that the shift point from 2 to 3 with the kickdown switch pressed is still close to 100 km/h, as it was before.
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Dec 1, 2023 8:24:22 GMT
Good morning - I have delivered my 1962 MK IA to the same specialist as you are using. They have done work for me before, and I am very happy with their performance. Like a Rover, they deliver high performance of lasting quality.
I took the ferry from Oslo to Copenhagen and drove via Hamburg and Antwerp & Rotterdam to Amsterdam. I have 4 speed manual without overdrive and have fitted oversize CROSSPLY tires to my car. This will reduce the RPM by 10% and make the speedometer show true speed. The odometer is coutning "too fast" though, so I guess one never gets the best of both worlds ....
I used 5 ltr. oil on the 1300 km journey at a steady speed of 100 - 110 KPH, and the only issue I had was one of the two fuel pumps pumping erratic. I thought it was clogged fuel filters, when it turned out that the pump would work for 5 seconds, then stop for 5 seconds and resume pumping before stopping again.
This starved the engine of fuel - as it was cold outside and I did not have the right tools with me I had to make 100 km distance in 40-60 kph on the motorway. Nah, what is a journey without a surprise element ... and I stayed warm and reached my destination 2 hours later than otherwise.
Purpose of my bringing the car to the specialist is to fit an overdrive, tune the suspension to give a more comforting ride, find out why the clutch is sometimes slipping and general attendance to the electrical system.
Arriving in the garage the specialist quickly spotted a leakage between the cylinder head and cylinder block = bad cylinder head gasket. The piston in cyl. no 6 act like a pump, so this is where much of the oil came out. I notice your own cylinder head gasket was blown in the same location.
I have learned a lot from your posts, which will be put to good use when my car is being looked after - I am sure I am in good hands, and will endeavour to keep you all abreast of developments on my car.
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break23m
Rover Rookie
Getting a 3 Litre Mk II automatic back on the road
Posts: 49
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Post by break23m on Dec 1, 2023 13:59:39 GMT
You brought your car to Smink in Hooglanderveen? Then I have seen it there. I read your facebookpost and concluded you have found a specialist in Amsterdam?
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Dec 1, 2023 15:35:34 GMT
Hi Joost - yes, I did. Dropped it off on Wednesday afternoon. Luckily, I had dry roads all the way. I "escaped" Germany on summer tires one day before the snow and ice arrived ...
I trust in Smink, he has delivered very well on my 3.5 litre that I picked up 2 months ago.
When my car is finished I hope to show it to you.
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break23m
Rover Rookie
Getting a 3 Litre Mk II automatic back on the road
Posts: 49
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Post by break23m on Dec 1, 2023 16:03:49 GMT
I was there on thursday for a quick change of the outlet manifold. I noticed your car. In total there where three black 3 Litre Rovers, I had to look twice to see wich was mine . Would be nice to have a coffee together and have a good look at your car.
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break23m
Rover Rookie
Getting a 3 Litre Mk II automatic back on the road
Posts: 49
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Post by break23m on Dec 3, 2023 21:31:43 GMT
I asked the mechanic if it is necessary to re torque the cylinder head bolts after some time. I am told that there is no need since the head gasket is steel and doesn't settle. Never heard that on other cars. What do you do after replacing the head?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Dec 9, 2023 6:58:16 GMT
Retorque - when stone cold after 500 miles
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Post by enigmas on Dec 9, 2023 21:06:38 GMT
Retorquing the head won't hurt anything and will ease your conscience if this is bothering you. Just ensure you do it in the correct pattern starting from the centre and working your way out.
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