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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 14, 2007 16:41:56 GMT
So harvey does that mean the long cable can be fitted on a short cable box if the cams are the same
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Post by harvey on Oct 14, 2007 16:48:56 GMT
No reason why not, but why would you want to! Just don't fit the 303 cam and bracket to the early valve block, because if there is a crank in the bracket that will make any cable too short, and the cam may even foul the sump.
Why the interest John, are you planning a little trip into gearboxland to see how it all works?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 14, 2007 16:59:41 GMT
If you have the right bracketry either sort can be fitted as all manifolds has the holes and castings for the long type linkage for teh short cable Thats what I thought but the cams are different too and I dont think they swap. Sorry, I meant the cam on the carbs.
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Post by harvey on Oct 14, 2007 17:09:00 GMT
Either end (carb or g/box) it's all interchangable.(with the right parts)
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 14, 2007 18:01:53 GMT
No not going to gearbox land harvey it's just my curiosity as to what would interchange if I go into gearbox land I will take a guy who knows with me
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 15, 2007 1:15:42 GMT
Is the nut and bolt through the clevis on the end of the kickdown cable an Australian factory modification? The throttle bush actually makes a vast amount of difference because they tend not to wear but break up and fall out altogether, and once it's gone you're unlikely to be able to get enough travel on the cable to get it to kickdown. They aren't that difficult to get to and adjust. Nope, no Australian factory Harvey; just straight of the boat and into the dealer's showroom. If it's supposed to be a pin, then someone has probably lost it and replaced it with the bolt. Personally, I would have used fencing wire. Much more reliable...and versatile. A roll in the boot with a good pair of pliers and you can fix nearly anything except a puncture.
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Post by harvey on Oct 15, 2007 14:13:46 GMT
Is the nut and bolt through the clevis on the end of the kickdown cable an Australian factory modification? The throttle bush actually makes a vast amount of difference because they tend not to wear but break up and fall out altogether, and once it's gone you're unlikely to be able to get enough travel on the cable to get it to kickdown. They aren't that difficult to get to and adjust. Nope, no Australian factory Harvey; just straight of the boat and into the dealer's showroom. If it's supposed to be a pin, then someone has probably lost it and replaced it with the bolt. Personally, I would have used fencing wire. Much more reliable...and versatile. A roll in the boot with a good pair of pliers and you can fix nearly anything except a puncture. I agree about the pliers and fencing wire, but if you can't fix a puncture with them, you're not trying hard enough. Just cut a short length of wire, and hammer into the hole where the air's coming out, using the pliers.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 15, 2007 15:40:30 GMT
or sew the split in the side wall with the wire and pliers !!
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Oct 15, 2007 21:06:05 GMT
very interesting guys, but did anyone figure out where my little kickdown button behind the pedal has gone??
really sorry if someone's already said and i've missed it. but i still can't figure out how come mine looks like warwick's photo and not john's!
what do i do about the missing button??
ta
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 15, 2007 21:07:27 GMT
Get one from David Green, your is past repair unless you can find the missing bits
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 17, 2007 1:30:56 GMT
Now I remember!! I used my button to fix a puncture because I didn't know about the fencing wire technique.
Anyone used fencing wire to fix the kick-down spring?
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theroveringmember
Rover Fanatic
P5B Saloon - P4 110 - P6B x2 - 2200TC - 2000TC (S1) 2000SC........How Many Is Too Many?
Posts: 446
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Post by theroveringmember on Oct 18, 2007 6:00:16 GMT
(The in-line fuel filter at the top is in the rubber breather hose from the back of the engine to the air-cleaner. The extra throttle cable with the ball-chain end is for the cruise-control, as is the 1/4" rubber vacuum line across the rocker cover at the bottom of the photos.) Is the cruise control a 'choke' type cable set-up? How does the vacuum line fit into the scheme of things?
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 18, 2007 8:28:37 GMT
It's an electronically-controlled general-purpose type that uses a vacuum capsule to pull a Bowden cable. It's a fairly long cable so the vacuum actuator can be mounted anywhere it will fit. The cable pulls the throttle linkage in parallel to the accelerator cable. That's why the end bit is a ball-chain so it offers no resistance when using the accelerator pedal.
The actuator is hooked up to manifold vacuum using a small plastic tee. The control unit gets its road speed readings from several small magnets that are stuck evenly around the gearbox end of the prop shaft using double-sided tape and then they are secured with loops of fine stainless steel wire. The operating switches for this one are in a small black unit that has been mounted on the transmission tunnel at the rear end of the console.
I had to disconnect the vac line and move it to get a good shot after taking off the air-cleaner for the photo.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 18, 2007 9:27:54 GMT
I bet that Cruse Controll comes in handy across those ploughed fields Oooops sorry Warwick roads
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Oct 19, 2007 0:02:30 GMT
That's where the Overfinch Strange Rover would have been handy.
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