Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2008 21:54:58 GMT
This is my first post so hello all.
I need a to replace the Lucas 6ra on my 1967 p5b saloon and was wondering if anyone knows anywhere that i would be able to buy one. I am in chichester on the south coast but dont mind traveling a bit to pick it up
Many thanks
Terry
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 4, 2008 22:19:41 GMT
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Post by Warwick on Jul 4, 2008 23:56:06 GMT
Phil,
I think this might be a good candidate for another sticky. I have often looked at the array of Lucas relays scattered around the car and wondered what their functions were. I'm reasonably electrically savvy and given time to trace wires or study the wiring diagram I may have been able to work out the purpose of each one - but it's a lot easier and safer if someone who knows can tell you.
Perhaps Terry could edit the title of this thread to read "Lucas relays and components" to make it more general. You could then make it a sticky.
Then if you and others could add concise advice like you have above for each of the relays and other small devices throughout the car, including the voltage stabilizer as it looks like a relay, it would be very helpful.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 5, 2008 5:56:47 GMT
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 5, 2008 8:12:32 GMT
I will make this a Sticky but too many stickies may defeat the object. The Lucas 6RA is too expensive and modern substitutes are very cheap and reliable. If a modern alternator is used its not required anyway.
The 6RA is also used to protect the ignition switch/starter solenoid (ar side of heater)
On 3 Litres a similar one is used for the twin horns.
Such relays are well advised for the main headlamp switch on both 3L and 3.5L and the horns on 3.5L
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 5, 2008 10:50:46 GMT
Running cost of 6RA at todays price over 40 years 5p a year or 4 gallons of petrol to buy not to mention it looks correct as long as the rest of it is original As I said in UP a bit loads of good info here www.tvrna.com/lucas/lucas-relays-6ra.htm
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 5, 2008 17:13:00 GMT
Thanks for all the help guys. Im going to replace it to keep it all original. Just gonna order it now! Thanks once again
Terry
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 5, 2008 17:14:03 GMT
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Jul 30, 2009 18:28:29 GMT
Terry, off topic I know but a group of local members meet up in shoreham once a month. There are several in Worthing, there are 3 within a mile of me in Hove and a few others. Plus we run the south east rover rally each year. If you fancy meeting up sometime drop me a pm or your email and we'll have a chat. In fact we are going up to the national in convoy on sunday morning at 9? ?
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Chris
Rover Rookie
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Post by Chris on Mar 1, 2011 8:16:33 GMT
On the subject about the 6RA, the wiring on my car is probably like most others in that over time the cotton braided wiring has become so deteriorated that it is extremely hard to identify what colour it is. In fact I have attached labels to the wires to identify what connection on the relay they attach to, so if inadvertently remove more that one wire at a time I know I can connect them into the correct position. So I though I can do something about that. If I carefully remove a bit of the wiring harness insulation and cut the wire and replace it with a bit of modern PVC wire of the correct colour and amp rating. I will not only solve this problem but it will look better as well. I have only done one wire so far and am a bit complexed, the one I did is the W1 connection on the relay and according to the wiring diagram it is a white wire feed from the ignition switch. After removing the old cotton wire I peeled off some of the cotton covering and the underside is still quite clean and the colour is not totally white but is white/blue. According the wiring diagram white/blue is used between the ignition relay and the inhibitor switch. Looking at the wiring diagram I can not see any direct correlation between the 6RA relay and the ignition relay/inhibitor switch. Plus this white/blue wire runs down the firewall and under the car, I presume it will end up at the inhibitor switch. The wiring diagram shows the white wire from W1 on the relay leading to the ignition control fuse 3/4 on the fuse box where it is joined with another white from the ignition switch. On my car’s fuse box I have these two wires, both the old cotton braided type and also I have a third wire also white but of PVC style. After all this can any one tell me is this the way it should be, does any one have a car where you can still see what colour the wire from W1 connection on the relay is. I am normally reasonably comfortable working with the electrics but this has got me stumped.
regards
Chris
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Post by colnerov on Mar 1, 2011 15:59:59 GMT
Hi, don't get too hung up on this it has obviously worked for the last 40 years. Fuses often cover a couple of items and a number of low consumption/ low priority items, which in this case is the signal for the charging system and the ign feed for the reversing light switch. The men making up the looms don't always stick rigidly to the plan, frustrating I know but they are not too bothered as they don't have to fix it!
Colin
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 1, 2011 19:54:39 GMT
Rover made small mods to wiring without changing the diagrams - the W1/W2 is energised via the ignition which also energises the same type starter solenoid via inhibitor relay. Its just a slightly different circuit tracer and may be a PO mod
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Post by true2north on Nov 21, 2018 21:13:28 GMT
Resurrecting an old thread.......having gone for electronic distributor, dry coil (no ballast req) and new regulated alternator, I have deleted the 4TR and 3AW relays and it all appears to have continuity where it should. However, do I understand that the 6RA relay labelled as 'starter motor relay' by the fuse box can also be deleted? I have spent the last couple of days struggling with the wiring diagram, trying to see what effect this relay will have on the starter motor! I dont need the field generation function now, and the ignition is protected by the other ignition/inhibitor 6RA by the heater. Is the name just a Rover ruse to keep us confused? Please help before the pencils and underpants come out......
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 21, 2018 21:24:37 GMT
Just to confuse you the ignition relay on the wiring 51 is marked starter relay and relay 2 which is the start relay is marked ignition Relay "that may help". You can eliminate the ignition 6RA depending on what you are doing with the alternator?
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Post by true2north on Nov 21, 2018 21:31:22 GMT
Thank you John. That makes much more sense and I can now sleep peacefully. Off it comes - leaving a bit of space for more important relays.
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Post by true2north on Nov 21, 2018 21:41:45 GMT
The Alternator (Lucas A127) is just 3 connections - Main feed, Alternator light and earth (chassis). Is there anything else that would stop the deletion of the relay?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 22, 2018 9:06:18 GMT
No you should be ok as long as you get the feed correct
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