Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Aug 2, 2009 6:41:24 GMT
Hi there,
After my old coil broke down completely, I purchased a new coil from a local classic Volvo dealer. It's a high energy balasted coil, 12 V, no brand, no known resistance.
After the fitting, I can't get the car started.
Since I'm, at the same time, reconnecting my new contact switch, I was wondering whether I made a wiring error.
Is it true that the only two wires connected to the coil are two rather thin white wires?
I connected the contact switch so that I can hear the fuel pump rattling and the starter working, are there any other connections to be made in de contact switch to operate the starting system?
Thanks from a rainy Holland
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 2, 2009 7:10:09 GMT
Hi there, After my old coil broke down completely, I purchased a new coil from a local classic Volvo dealer. It's a high energy balasted coil, 12 V, no brand, no known resistance. After the fitting, I can't get the car started. Since I'm, at the same time, reconnecting my new contact switch, I was wondering whether I made a wiring error. Is it true that the only two wires connected to the coil are two rather thin white wires? I connected the contact switch so that I can hear the fuel pump rattling and the starter working, are there any other connections to be made in de contact switch to operate the starting system? Thanks from a rainy Holland If you are fitting the 12V coil in the place of the 9V coil you will need to get rid of the ballast resistor the coil will work but not to it's full output  the white and purple lead is the 9V feed and the white and black is the feed to the dzzy. |
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Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Aug 2, 2009 8:25:04 GMT
Done it (it turned out the flat plug with the feeds to the coil was loose...) Car starts firing up, but as soon as I release the iginition switch, it stops. Looks asif it doesn't receive any petrol? I cleaned the carbs and the chambers are full.
Thanks
Guus
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 2, 2009 15:31:42 GMT
May be the ignition switch is faulty check for voltage best you can on the coil using a bulb or a meter and see if the voltage disappears  |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 2, 2009 15:36:19 GMT
John - You are back so soon or did you not go?  Guus the ignition switch may now be wired incorrectly and/or ballast shunt starts it on 12v but when starter relaesed you have no supply. Wire a feed direct from UNFUSED side (white) of IGNITION control on fuse box  Ballast is not necessary anyway - on P5B this was either separate at side of coil or a built in resister wire. What age is your car?  |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 2, 2009 16:01:51 GMT
Hi Phil yes we are back early it seemed everybody was leaving so we joined in had a good day  I had a coupe a little while ago with the same symptoms as Guus that turned out someone had wired the switch incorrectly he has to establish there is 12v on the coil or as you say 12v direct to the coil I am always reluctant to recommend just take a wire from A to B! ok for you and me |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 2, 2009 16:19:36 GMT
Of course if the ignition switch is wired incorrectly it could result in starter operating or not able to switch off! Only pre 69 model years had teh separate ballast and shunt anyway |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 2, 2009 16:26:08 GMT
Of course if the ignition switch is wired incorrectly it could result in starter operating or not able to switch off! Only pre 69 model years had teh separate ballast and shunt anyway I couldn't remember if it was 69 or 70 for sure I have had a 69 with a ballast but depending on the sale date it could have been a late 68 I just checked mine Phil it has the shunt wire connected she is Dec 69 |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 2, 2009 17:02:48 GMT
One of mine is Oct 69 and is without and has the resistive wire (Coil high up on n/s wing) - this is a saloon though, Rover often fitted "improvements" at random times in production
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Guus
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 196
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Post by Guus on Aug 3, 2009 11:19:09 GMT
Hello there!
Thanks for thinking along. Phil, my car is a '69-er but the original coil wasn't ballasted. I am pretty sure the fault is indeed in the ignition switch... I got a standard-ignition switch
with five pins (I had already replaced the originial with a 5 pins landrover-ignitionswitch, which worked fine, but the housing didn;t fit in the dash pod).
So now I've ordered an original Rover ignition switch! after 3 times I should get it right I suppose...
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Post by garybrokkes on Mar 22, 2013 12:41:54 GMT
Hello,been the owner of a 69 coupe for all of 3 hours and im not home yet..car stuttered and died,checked all and have no spark.So by the rd i fitted new points condenser coil rotor cap,still no spark...i test drove car last week and it was lovely...i took dash outt a bit to see if any wires off but no......
After searching thread,anyone any ideas on where else to look b4 i pay armleg money for recovery,
I was expecting a luxury drive home after my 8000 pounds.
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Post by David on Mar 22, 2013 14:05:49 GMT
Yikes, that is not good news.
Have you checked the fuses. From memory I think it is the first or second one down - I am sure others can correct me here.
Is it fitted with an AED (auto choke) as this happened to me a few times and it was the AED resetting to full choke, when the engine was warm, causing flooding.
Hope you get it sorted - not the best first impressions I am sure!
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Post by garybrokkes on Mar 22, 2013 14:59:15 GMT
Got it. started running like a dream ,however when i pulled away,it died and wouldnt start again.further checks showed that the points had stopped sparking again,..i ve put another earth wire where braided in dizzy,its like its something braking down.,all power to coil ok,what else could cause the point spark to deteriorate to nothing ?
Manual choke,
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Post by garybrokkes on Mar 22, 2013 15:11:29 GMT
Just like to add on a serious note,any help appriciated,i cannot take this back to wife with it on transporter,we was going out for dinner,this was our cruise money.divorce and everything
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Mar 22, 2013 15:55:27 GMT
Just like to add on a serious note,any help appriciated,i cannot take this back to wife with it on transporter,we was going out for dinner,this was our cruise money.divorce and everything Assuming the problem is electrical and not mechanical,do all the other electrics work or do they die with the engine? If so, check for something obvious like a loose/broken/dirty battery terminal.If all other electrics fine there must be an intermittent fault/short near the coil somewhere. |
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Post by garybrokkes on Mar 22, 2013 16:32:21 GMT
Thank you everything else does what it should,now changed LT wire to dizzy still the same it.
It started again lovely reved up ,occcasional misses but great ,pull away and and low revs missing then died.checked. with simple tester.power all were it should be apart from points.tried old points condenser but just as dead.it does seem like a drain on points like short but been over eveything.........would it be the ballast risistor ?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 22, 2013 16:48:50 GMT
If you have 12v on the coil and your points are not shorting? do a ohms check from the coil OP to either terminal?
If you do a search there are a few posts on this.
The spark is not enormous!
Worth checking the fuel bowls to see they are full?
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Post by garybrokkes on Mar 22, 2013 17:20:07 GMT
If you have 12v on the coil and your points are not shorting? do a ohms check from the coil OP to either terminal? If you do a search there are a few posts on this. The spark is not enormous! Worth checking the fuel bowls to see they are full? I did go down the fuel route,everything all well and good,even gave it easystart at that stage.still no start.unfortuately shop could only sell me a pen and wire tester so cannot do much than that.its that spark. What are the syptoms of a shot ballast/ condenser (even though its new).ive got less than an hour before i inform the wife. |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 22, 2013 17:29:54 GMT
If you have 12v on the coil and your points are not shorting? do a ohms check from the coil OP to either terminal? If you do a search there are a few posts on this. The spark is not enormous! Worth checking the fuel bowls to see they are full? I did go down the fuel route,everything all well and good,even gave it easystart at that stage.still no start.unfortuately shop could only sell me a pen and wire tester so cannot do much than that.its that spark. What are the syptoms of a shot ballast/ condenser (even though its new).ive got less than an hour before i inform the wife. If the ballast is gone there is no 12v so that one is out if 12v is present at the coil, it could be the coil this has been covered many times if you have a 12v coil on a ballast supply you will get a very weak spark so have you a ballast? a 69 coupe should have the coil on the passenger side and if present the ballast would be underneath the coil mounted on the inner wing? |
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Post by garybrokkes on Mar 22, 2013 18:59:43 GMT
There is a grey,i thought supressor attched to live side of coil.(is thst the ballast,)tthe coil i bought was for ballast,well they gave after computer check...
well im waiting for recovery.and the wife hung up on me.
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Post by dmaxwell on Mar 22, 2013 19:02:04 GMT
Have you tried a new coil? Sometimes they do short out internally and would prevent a spark.
David
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 22, 2013 19:09:10 GMT
As a 69 model it could be a loom ballast breakdown. Just hotwire the coil and this will isolate the problem
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Post by garybrokkes on Mar 25, 2013 10:23:45 GMT
Okay i took advice and bypassed the ballast and started first time but would it continue running...
Went for drive and it was how i remember not missing a beat,so yould think ballast.... No this morning i restarted and drove over a hour without the ballast bypass....
I kept checking points,the spark is constant,im not fond of problems that roght themselves....ive wiggled wires ,removed points,etc to break it again bit its just running right...but you loose trust in a car quick...
Thanks for your input.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 25, 2013 11:31:38 GMT
I would fit a 12v coil and eliminate the Ballast don't use the coil you have as it will be a 9v one? if it is a Ballast coil? good luck |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 25, 2013 18:29:02 GMT
Running a 9v coil for long on 12v will ruin it - replace with a Lucas Sports 12v and bypass the loom ballast - it may be the ignition switch of course?
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the white and purple lead is the 9V feed and the white and black is the feed to the dzzy.
