trymes
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 241
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Post by trymes on Aug 25, 2011 14:42:39 GMT
OK, so I know Phil will direct me to the SEARCH function, but I have employed it to no avail. I have also used the far superior "site:roverp5.proboards.com " method via Google with unsatisfactory results, so here goes:
Many threads out there refer to the "Proper" method of checking the transmission fluid in the P5. I do not know if the method is different for the DG box versus the T35, but I have the T-35. I have yet to acquire a Workshop Manual.
Here is the method I have always used to check the fluid level in an autobox:
1.) Car on level ground in Park. 2.) Engine Running. 3.) Engine and transmission warm. 4.) Car has been driven at least a short ways (ie: not just started and allowed to warm while standing). 5.) Pull dipstick, wipe, re-insert and check level.
I have seen reference to leaving the T-35 in Neutral instead of Park, and references to it not making any difference.
The reason I ask is that a few things are frustrating me with this transmission. First, checking the level is a pain, as fluid sticks to the indicator in the bends of the dipstick. Second, I think I am losing fluid, but I see no evidence of drips or leakage on the ground or under the car. Thirdly, it is a minor pain to add fluid as it is painfully slow to go down the dipstick/fill tube (perhaps a vent is blocked? Where is the gearbox breather located?).
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Tom
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 25, 2011 15:16:57 GMT
Sounds good to me Tom they are a pain to dip and get correct.
Park is correct for me
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Post by harvey on Aug 25, 2011 15:18:07 GMT
35 box. With the transmission at normal working temperature, the engine idling, and the car on level ground, run through the entire selector range allowing a few seconds in each position to allow it to engage, starting and finishing in PARK, then, with the engine still running walk round remove and wipe clean the dipstick and re-insert to take a level. You will have time for a few quick dips to try and get an accurate level. If you add fluid repeat the whole procedure before taking another level. Use only ATF-G or fluid that meets Ford spec. M2C-33G. DON'T use any of the DEXRON type fluids. A small amount of white blackboard chalk rubbed on the bottom of the dipstick, and then wiped off, dries it and makes seeing the level easier.
DG's are different, being checked with the engine running in "L".
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 25, 2011 16:31:06 GMT
DG's also have a decent short dipstick that is easy to read but its accessed via the interior transmission hump.
This topic has been covered many times but I have made this a sticky
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trymes
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 241
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Post by trymes on Aug 25, 2011 16:58:25 GMT
Thanks for the confirmation, guys.
Any thoughts on the breather tube? Where does it terminate?
Now, where to find chalk?!
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Post by harvey on Aug 25, 2011 17:03:24 GMT
Ther breather is connected to the dipstick tube, originally near the bottom, but there was a mod to move it closer to the top, and it should run up to nearly level with the top of the tube, and then back down finishing close or just past the gearbox casing/tailshaft housing joint.
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trymes
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 241
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Post by trymes on Aug 25, 2011 21:02:38 GMT
Thanks Harvey. Some of the threads in the archives mention blowing out the breather after removing the sump. Is that a requirement, or is there an easier way to do it?
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Post by Dean Hovland on Feb 11, 2012 7:04:52 GMT
How often should the fluid be changed ?
Dean
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 11, 2012 10:54:13 GMT
When it looks dirty or 12000 miles (20000km) by the book. It takes 15 pts including the converter which the DG unlike the BW35 has a drain plug - drain when hot and leave overight to fully empty.
The BW35 has to be done 2 or 3 times starting up in between to mix the new with old if its very dirty eg brown not red - if its much darker then you have real problems!
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Post by Dean Hovland on Feb 11, 2012 14:43:07 GMT
Thanks Phil 15 pints down the filler hole sounds a challenge. Or am i missing some thing ?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Feb 11, 2012 15:25:36 GMT
As Phil said Dean "The BW35 has to be done 2 or 3 times starting up in between to mix the new with old if its very dirty eg brown not red - if its much darker then you have real problems!
The reason is the Torque Converter has no drain plug so it's a case of several flushes to change the oil if it's a dirty smelly colour see Harvey You wont get 15lts out in one go so just replace with the same amount each time you drain, then check in the normal way when finished.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2012 15:29:03 GMT
Hopefully, I can clarify and I assume you're talking about the BW35 box as fitted to the 3.5 and not the box fitted to the 3 litre?
You will not completely empty the transmission as quite a bit of fluid will remain in the torque convertor and in other places so you will not actually be pouring 15 pints into the filler hole although it fills quite easily if you pour slowly and steadily.
When I changed my fluid I did 3 changes and noted the amount coming out each time( approx 3 litres) and then replenished with the same amount of new fluid. In between, you need to start the engine and run the selector a few time to thoroughly mix the old and new. After the changes, check the final level in the usual way and top up if needed.
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Post by harvey on Feb 11, 2012 17:00:20 GMT
Regular fluid changes from new are a good idea, changing the fluid in a box that hasn't had regular changes not quite so good, particularly if the fluid is really dirty, because that brown colour in the fluid is made up of suspended friction material particles, and removing those can mean that there are problems with slip afterwards. It doesn't always happen, but it is something that you should bear in mind before you start. Once it's done it can't really be undone.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 11, 2012 17:02:11 GMT
Of couse Mk3's has the BW35 too so converter cannot drain below half full at the centre
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bazza
Rover Rookie
Bazza 1966 P5 MK 111 Western Australia
Posts: 9
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Post by bazza on Sept 7, 2013 7:31:51 GMT
OK, so I know Phil will direct me to the SEARCH function, but I have employed it to no avail. I have also used the far superior "site:roverp5.proboards.com " method via Google with unsatisfactory results, so here goes: Many threads out there refer to the "Proper" method of checking the transmission fluid in the P5. I do not know if the method is different for the DG box versus the T35, but I have the T-35. I have yet to acquire a Workshop Manual. Here is the method I have always used to check the fluid level in an autobox: 1.) Car on level ground in Park. 2.) Engine Running. 3.) Engine and transmission warm. 4.) Car has been driven at least a short ways (ie: not just started and allowed to warm while standing). 5.) Pull dipstick, wipe, re-insert and check level. I have seen reference to leaving the T-35 in Neutral instead of Park, and references to it not making any difference. The reason I ask is that a few things are frustrating me with this transmission. First, checking the level is a pain, as fluid sticks to the indicator in the bends of the dipstick. Second, I think I am losing fluid, but I see no evidence of drips or leakage on the ground or under the car. Thirdly, it is a minor pain to add fluid as it is painfully slow to go down the dipstick/fill tube (perhaps a vent is blocked? Where is the gearbox breather located?). Any thoughts would be appreciated. Tom
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Post by lagain on Sept 8, 2013 21:06:45 GMT
Many years ago I had a leak on my BW 35 and took it to the Borg Warner service centre in Southampton. The chap there said that the way to check the fluid level is to give the car a good run so that the fluid is well circulated and hot. Make sure the car is standing level in Park, turn off engine and check level at once.
When I change the fluid I wait until the winter when I lay the car up, then put a large Tupperware container under the sump, remove plug and leave it. As mentioned it is not possible to drain the torque convertor, but on most of our cars after a couple of weeks the seal that keeps the fluid in the TC relaxes and lets some of it out ! I always measure how much I have collected to replace to the correct level.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 9, 2014 5:05:34 GMT
The method you describe is what is written in several Ford manuals I possess for the range of vehicles using the BW35 across the range from 170ci 6 cyl to the 289ci Ford V8. The procedure must be done in a certain prescribed time (minutes)
On occasion I drain the auto including the torque convertor by removing the outgoing cooler line (at the oil cooler fitting_MK3 box) and running it into a draining container. Start the car and leave it in park. Let it idle while the fluid pumps out. As soon as the fluid exiting starts to falter, switch of the ignition. Measure the quantity expelled and replace with fresh fluid.
My query. Dipstick length Could someone with a P5 MK3 (BW35 fitted with the rear pump) measure the complete length of the automatic dipstick from the far end to the inside of the sealing cap and provide me with the measurement. This is essentially the full length of the dipstick when it is housed within the tube.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 10, 2014 2:30:15 GMT
Doesn't anyone on the Tech Board have a MK3 P5?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 10, 2014 18:33:24 GMT
Not me but YES - I just cannot recall who for noe but its a regular contributor
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Post by stantondavies on Feb 11, 2014 22:44:01 GMT
My query. Dipstick length Could someone with a P5 MK3 (BW35 fitted with the rear pump) measure the complete length of the automatic dipstick from the far end to the inside of the sealing cap and provide me with the measurement. This is essentially the full length of the dipstick when it is housed within the tube. 35 7/8 inches, ie an eighth of an inch less than a yard. Measured from tip to inside of cap which rests on the top of tube. Hope that helps.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 11, 2014 22:55:08 GMT
That's him
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Post by enigmas on Feb 12, 2014 1:34:32 GMT
Thank you Stanton and Phil.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 12, 2014 2:16:17 GMT
I've just checked (12.45pm OZ time)and there's definitely something awry! The dipstick length taken from the measurement points given is 26". Now that's a shortfall of 9 7/8". If the true measurement is 35 7/8" (which I have no doubt it is) What's going on
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Feb 12, 2014 6:59:11 GMT
I've just checked (12.45pm OZ time)and there's definitely something awry! The dipstick length taken from the measurement points given is 26". Now that's a shortfall of 9 7/8". If the true measurement is 35 7/8" (which I have no doubt it is) What's going on If it's that much shorter and you can still read the level vince surely your tube must be different This is where it sits on mine for comparison but I don't think you are on SU's are you vince?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2014 8:44:20 GMT
I've just checked (12.45pm OZ time)and there's definitely something awry! The dipstick length taken from the measurement points given is 26". Now that's a shortfall of 9 7/8". If the true measurement is 35 7/8" (which I have no doubt it is) What's going on If it's that much shorter and you can still read the level vince surely your tube must be different This is where it sits on mine for comparison but I don't think you are on SU's are you vince? Always nice to see that beautifully finished engine bay John. Until now, I didn't realise that the top of the transmission dip stick came in two colours. Mine's cream/off white!
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