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Post by enigmas on May 3, 2012 11:30:46 GMT
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Post by Warwick on May 4, 2012 5:22:35 GMT
Vince and Neal,
I'd be interested in some more info about the E-type and how it sits and handles with the P5B's front end.
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Post by Warwick on May 5, 2012 1:02:12 GMT
See if you can wangle a test drive Vince.
(PS. You ARE skimming through posts lately, aren't you)
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 5, 2012 9:44:43 GMT
Handy pics - neat rear shackle mod
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 5, 2012 11:51:56 GMT
Yes, I homed in on that as well! I noticed the complete removal of the carrier and then a fairly standard shackle although probably quite tricky to do.
I'd always thought that the existing carrier could be modified to avoid so much surgery but I'll leave that to the engineers to figure out!
After 40 or so years with spring settling and with the quality of modern replacement materials, the "Y" bush arrangement is a weak point in my opinion.
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Post by enigmas on May 5, 2012 22:54:24 GMT
The rear shackle mod is actually a quite straight forward process. Cut off the old mount. Drill a hole in the appropriate place. This can be ascertained when the vehicle weight is on the spring. Weld in a crush tube.
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Post by nodsmods on May 6, 2012 9:05:55 GMT
Hi Vince I need your E mail address so I can send you pic's to put on site when Kait is not home please ring or send E mail thank NOD
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Post by Baldrick on May 14, 2012 21:03:50 GMT
Doesn't work on safari...
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Post by corbin on May 15, 2012 6:47:08 GMT
Doesn't work on safari... That's dedication, browsing the p5 site when your on holiday!
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Post by nodsmods on May 15, 2012 8:30:40 GMT
Hi boys I know a bit about building cars,nothing about computer I will get daughter to put some pics on site ASAP NOD
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Post by Warwick on Jun 28, 2012 7:31:41 GMT
The rear shackle mod is actually a quite straight forward process. Cut off the old mount. Drill a hole in the appropriate place. This can be ascertained when the vehicle weight is on the spring. Weld in a crush tube. Neal & Vince, I'd be interested to hear some feedback about how it rides with those rear shackles instead of the rubber Y-mounts.
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Post by nodsmods on Jun 29, 2012 8:45:39 GMT
Hi Warwick, I do intend on following this car to on road I know owner of company that will be doing final assembly and I will stay in touch with owner. There is still alot of work to be done after I'm finished so might take some time will stay in touch and I'm sure Vince will send something in even if I don't.
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Post by enigmas on Jun 29, 2012 10:34:33 GMT
Hi Neal, I won't be available for updates for about 2 weeks as I have a prior commitment, but will drop by after this period and get details for the next update. I will also contact the relevant parties re: The visit by interested participants. ~ Vince
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Post by Warwick on Jun 29, 2012 10:38:55 GMT
Thanks Neal.
Some of the things I'm curious about with this modification is how it affects the ride height and if the standard axle was to remain, then it would probably also rotate the front of the diff up slightly.
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Post by nodsmods on Jun 30, 2012 3:31:59 GMT
Hi Vince that OK mate I am still waiting for column and hand brake hope when you come in next there's something new to report see you soon. Hi Warwick the diff in this car is out of a Holden commodore with Rover spring saddles welded in place to get right pinion angle this can be done with standard diff as well not that hard to do if you have a grinder and welder you are more than welcome to come in and have a look if you want
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 30, 2012 6:53:20 GMT
I wonder what is the correct Pinion angle? from my own experience of my project the original Rover Pinion angle should not work it's too low
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Post by enigmas on Jun 30, 2012 13:17:42 GMT
It's quite straight forward to get the pinion angles correct. What needs to be taken into consideration is what the pinion does under hard acceleration...as it wants to climb ring gear. The rear end is not Neal's work and is essentially the original rover setup. I know Neal would favour some thing more sophisticated to handle the power from the Lexus engine. Under heavy acceleration if the differential pinion is pointing down a few degrees it should lift under spring windup to correct alignment. The differential on my P5 has a Ford centre between Rover axles giving a 2.9 : 1 ratio. When I first fitted it vibration under hard acceleration was an issue initially.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 30, 2012 15:39:53 GMT
We have been here before Vince I used a bit of professional software and put in all the P5 info UJ angles etc for a leaf spring set up and it came out every time as miles too low this took into consideration things like prop wind up etc this was also backed up by the prop shaft company It's a bit of a black art I think to get a split prop sorted much easier with a one piece shaft but for the power we are talking about 3" minimum diameter for the length I would still like to know why the early P5 had tapered wedges to alter the pinion nose?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 1, 2012 4:50:22 GMT
It would be good to have an easy definitive answer Vince on how to sort Prop Shaft problems The company I dealt with said there are cars and vans today which are new with various vibration problems which they cant cure! they subdue them so the owner gets used to it The software is a US product Propshaft Angle Correction Tool
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Post by nodsmods on Jul 1, 2012 8:41:33 GMT
Hi gents I have fitted many different diff's into different cars and found that with 4link 5to7 degreese is enough to stop uni going strait and with leaf spring 7to10is normally enough, I have also put tramp rods under leaf springs to stop spring wined or axle hop eg Ford falcon XA with 460 big block,HT holden with 350 chev, MK2 cortina with 302 windsor my own XD ute with 351clevland they are probably the cheapest way to stop axle hop and pinion turning up to much. A lot of drive line vibrations and rumbles in lowered cars mostly is caused by uni's running strait.In my Anglia the motor and trans is mounted off center to left about 75mm and drive shaft points up 10 degrees from trans to diff, pinions are pretty dumb they don't know witch way they are pointing as long as your slip yoke isn't pulled to far out of trans or center bearing and uni's DON"T run strait NO VIBRATION but that's only my experience and opinion
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Post by enigmas on Jul 1, 2012 13:14:42 GMT
Hi Neal, the whole prop shaft on my P5 runs at an oblique angle from front to rear due to the diff pinion being offset slightly when the Ford gears were mated to the Rover axles and casing. This slight offset eliminated the source of low speed 'take off' vibration. It was more a matter of being persistent and pig headed as the 'experts' were of little help. Like Neal you just discover stuff some times because you have no other option than to just persist.
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Post by Warwick on Jul 2, 2012 3:19:36 GMT
I would still like to know why the early P5 had tapered wedges to alter the pinion nose? John, What is the rear suspension of a P4 like? Does it use the rubber Y-mounts or standard shackles? Neal, How much further down is the end of the leaf spring pushed by the shackle compared to the standard Y-mount?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 2, 2012 7:55:10 GMT
I would still like to know why the early P5 had tapered wedges to alter the pinion nose? John, What is the rear suspension of a P4 like? Does it use the rubber Y-mounts or standard shackles? I think they use Shackles Warwick I could have had a look yesterday if I had got the post earlier
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Post by Warwick on Jul 3, 2012 3:52:59 GMT
I'm sure Mr. Jones will tell us soon.
If the P5 suspension was based on the P4, but with the change to Y-mounts, perhaps the wedges were added to compensate for changes to the diff pinion angle - but they later found that they were unnecessary.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 3, 2012 5:35:56 GMT
It is something of a mystery Warwick I rang several people within the club and drew a blank
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