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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2012 11:34:13 GMT
G'day once again
Fitted the new ERC2810 water pump today and the engine runs with no rattles after having to prime the oil pump.
The engine is a Aussie SD1 spec 8:13 CR but it has been fitted with a different intake manifold and HIF6 carbs not the HS6 type.
On to my transmission problem, it has reverse but no forward gears at all, not even a clunk?
The fluid level is okay and I checked it before and after a few 15 minute engine runs. The fluid is nice and red not burnt.
I cycled it in all forward gears for a few minutes several times but nothing.
The car has been sitting for about 2 years.
Anyone got any ideas on the problem and does anyone know if a BW35 from a P6B will fit because one is for sale local (recently reconditioned)
Also would a P6B BW65 fit in with no problems as there are a few are around for sale from SD1 & P6B's ? Fingers crossed
kb3500
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Post by harvey on Aug 7, 2012 13:21:30 GMT
It will be a front clutch failure, most likely the piston seal.
A P6B 35 box will fit, but you may have to fit a rear throttle/kickdown bracket if the P6B box has a short kickdown cable and your car has a long one. If you already have the short cable it's a straight swap, which if you're running HIF6's you probably have.
The P6B 65 box will fit, but it will need some minor fabrication to make up a bracket on the box to fit the P5B rear mounting, and you'd loose the linkage compensator, so you could possibly run a rod direct from the bottom of the lever to the selector on the box, but a better idea would be to use the P6B selector cable. All that would need is a bracket fabricated on the bottom of the tunnel. There's also a bracket on the box, but that should be there already. The dipstick tube will come up the other side.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2012 16:52:10 GMT
Thanks for the information Harvey, I think I will stick with a BW35 for now and get a 65 lined up for when I have the time to do the mods required. Would the SD1 BW65 be the same amount of work as the P6B item, they would have a lot less miles under their belt Have a good one.
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Post by harvey on Aug 7, 2012 16:59:17 GMT
I wouldn't necessarily agree about the mileage, the newest SD1 is over 25 years old now. Fitting an SD1 box would be more work as regards the rear mounting, unless you replaced the SD1 tailshaft housing with a P6B one, which thinking about it would be easy enough, if you could get one, and you might find the SD1 had an electronic speedo, which would need replacing with gears, and it would need a custom cable even then. You might also end up looking at boxes that turned out to be BW66's, in which case you'd need the converter as well, or even worse (as far as getting it to fit) GM180's. Sorting the BW35 is by far the easiest option.
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Post by Warwick on Aug 7, 2012 23:49:20 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2012 10:47:23 GMT
Thanks Warwick, he is offline but I have sent him a message.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2012 13:03:06 GMT
All sorted, found a recon auto in Adelaide and now it goes forward and backwards. Never heard from Vince??
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Post by enigmas on Aug 29, 2012 20:05:27 GMT
Hi Kb3500. I sent you a PM on Aug 8, 2012, 11:44am. Check your PM inbox. Glad you managed to sort your issue with the gearbox ~ Vince
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2012 22:37:00 GMT
Thanks Vince. I just worked out the PM and email notification system thanks to the burst from trymes.
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Post by frans1950 on Nov 19, 2012 18:09:12 GMT
I have the same problem, the story is: i bought a P6B for the autobox tohave one in reserve, it is restored 2 years ago and since then 5000 km, the seller did drive the car forwards on a trailer and drove the car backwards of the trailer, now it dont drive forwards in D,1,2 with very much rpm it crawles forwards only on a flat road. Backwards all works fine: much power. I changed the oil (4ltr, no dextron) but no changes. My question is: is it possible that the box suddenly is broken and what has gone wrong? Is it easy to repair? Regards, Frans
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Post by harvey on Nov 19, 2012 18:48:06 GMT
Providing you still have PARK, REVERSE and NEUTRAL then yes it's quite possible the box has failed all of a sudden, and the failure will be in the front clutch, and to replace that the box needs to be removed and dismantled, and replacement of the seal (which is usually the underlying cause of the failure) requires the use of a special installer.
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Post by frans1950 on Nov 19, 2012 20:17:49 GMT
Thanks Harvey, that is a clear answer. I probably remove motor and box, open it to look as a learning experiance how everything looks inside. I never looked inside. Regards, Frans
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Post by frans1950 on Nov 23, 2012 19:32:20 GMT
By inspecting all the items I think the following is happened with the autobox: The seller told me that it had too much oil in it so take some out to bring it on the right level and drove with the car for a short time. When I bought it and inspect the oil there was again to much in it! and as Harvey said: the front clutch is broken.I did change the oil wich was not red but brown. By further inspection I saw the cooling level in de radiator was low! Now I think there is a leak in the radiator between coolant and ATF-oil. I did mix some good ATF with water and they mix very well so you cannot see there is water in the ATF! I wonder what is the pressure of the ATF circulation through the radiator and what is the pressure of the coolant? I pressume that when the engine is hot and you stop it, coolant can go from the radiator in the autobox. I become frigtened by this so I am now looking for a separate oilcooler for my P5B. Is this a wellknown subject or happenes that very rare? It is worth checking the level regular and not only for a low level but also as it is to high!
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Post by harvey on Nov 23, 2012 20:35:08 GMT
If the cooler in the rad leaks they will cross contaminate, and that's definitely to be avoided. If that has happened then all of the friction materials in the box will require replacement, and the converter will have to be overhauled to get the contaminated fluid out of that, plus the cooling system will need to be thoroughly flushed out. A separate cooler avoids the possibility of it ever happening again. I've had it happen on Rovers enough times to remember it, but it always used to be Volvos that really suffered from it for some reason.
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