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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Oct 13, 2012 18:11:56 GMT
Well done Crossplies A, for posting the photos , B, for moving the post away from mudslinging from individuals, who in my opinion should behave better, especially those who occupy a position within the club. If party A has a beef with party B, then they should sort it out between themselves. If a solution cannot be found between the two,then this should not be allowed to spill over into other areas which may affect each party. And BTW,i am not a rover p5 club member for exactly this reason!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 13, 2012 18:51:40 GMT
Well done Richard you can't beat a good clamp for those who are interested! The top to corners you have to treat as a different task you will need some of those plastic pinch clamps! after finding the centre of the boot rear and the seal this is where you start. Glue both up to past the curves then a slight coating again on the curves only stick the seal from your centre mark both ways then when you get to the curves you slide the seal forwards around the opening and clamp it so it lays flat or near enough! LEAVE it alone until dry! leave the clamps on ( I can post you a picture of the clamping if you need it) then it is a case of coating both sides past the corner and gently pulling and sticking to the bottom corners these will lay fine then the bottom section (you may need a bit more pulling to get the rubber between the two skins?) to about 3" from the centre! you will have a bit extra so don't worry! then do the other side the same, you should have a bit spare from both sides find the centre of the opening and cut one side with a sharp blade try to make it square!! then the other side, glue with the with the correct loctite for Rubber! very front edge only gently hold them together so they match then Loctite the rest of the rubber section it should look as one apart from the cut, then glue and stick the final 6" JOB DONE I have keep all the relevant posts together P5 or P5b it's the same job
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Oct 13, 2012 19:53:30 GMT
Very diplomatic
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Post by Dean Hovland on Oct 14, 2012 8:00:59 GMT
Crosspiles you have given me the inspiration to remove the untidy vauxhall boot seal and to retry the nice one i have messed about with. Yes please to clamp corner pics . Dean
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Post by Deleted on Oct 14, 2012 9:06:45 GMT
Hi Dean It's John who has the photo's of the clamp positions but I just used a selection of various old clamps I had to hold the corners in position whilst the contact adhesive set. I used small wooden blocks on the clamps to spread the load. Another tricky area is getting the seal inside the double skin along the bottom. You need to make sure that every bit of the old seal is removed then pull the rubber to stretch it whilst pushing it into the gap. I did a trial fitting before glueing. The gap seems to vary from car to car. I wouldn't worry too much about getting the adhesive on every part of the seal and frame as, apart from the corners, the seal seems quite happy to stay in position. I used Dunlop Thixofix contact adhesive on John's suggestion. Plenty on Ebay. Good luck
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Post by stan on Oct 14, 2012 12:52:09 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 14, 2012 13:01:45 GMT
Stan, I can't imagine trying to fit a non-standard seal to a P5 boot Fitting one that fits is bad enough I can't be certain, but I should think the seal design is unique to the P5 like so much else. If it wasn't, why would anyone go to the bother of re-manufacturing one? In theory, any piece of rubber that forms a seal will do because it's hidden from view 99% of the time but that's not the point is it? Sometimes it's about trying to do a proper job for a sense of self-satisfaction
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Post by stan on Oct 14, 2012 13:54:07 GMT
I agree mate I just thought with the amount of forum activity on the subject it might be something especially weird? No worries carry on, probably explains why the boots on some cars advertised look as though they sit proud of the body?
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Post by Dean Hovland on Oct 14, 2012 18:43:37 GMT
Stan, I can't imagine trying to fit a non-standard seal to a P5 boot Fitting one that fits is bad enough I can't be certain, but I should think the seal design is unique to the P5 like so much else. If it wasn't, why would anyone go to the bother of re-manufacturing one? In theory, any piece of rubber that forms a seal will do because it's hidden from view 99% of the time but that's not the point is it? Sometimes it's about trying to do a proper job for a sense of self-satisfaction I soooo have to change my boot seal
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Post by Kev on Oct 15, 2012 7:48:33 GMT
Guys.... just for the record as the subject is apparently closed.. This Big Kev...is not me. 2 of us !! OMG The first seals we sold were from Scots as we took over the selling from the club if memory serves me right, so perhaps this is where the bad reports have come from. We then chose to re-tool ourselves in the UK as the Scots profiles aren't correct-it doesn't matter that they may fit, they simply don't look genuine. I have a coupe that was completely rotten, fully rebuilt by Big Kev who also fitted a set of our door seals. He had to be coerced to do this job as Kev's hands are rather large, but they look original and the doors close very well. Read more: roverp5.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general31&thread=6664&page=1#50214#ixzz29LrYjLFV
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Post by Deleted on Oct 15, 2012 10:09:03 GMT
Just for interest, here is an image of the old and the new. The old is on the right and this does go some way in explaining why closing the boot lid can be a problem. The old original seal has a much less dense filling and therefore is much softer and yielding. Are the door seals the same density? I've not seen a new one. Scotts no longer supply the boot seal and I was very much aware of the high postage costs plus the relative strength of the Aus$ against the pound. I just happened to buy mine from a member who had a spare. Now that I'm heavily into rubber , I'm thinking of replacing a very poor seal on the rear door!
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Post by Dean Hovland on Oct 16, 2012 9:07:54 GMT
Guys.... just for the record as the subject is apparently closed.. This Big Kev...is not me. 2 of us !! OMG The first seals we sold were from Scots as we took over the selling from the club if memory serves me right, so perhaps this is where the bad reports have come from. We then chose to re-tool ourselves in the UK as the Scots profiles aren't correct-it doesn't matter that they may fit, they simply don't look genuine. I have a coupe that was completely rotten, fully rebuilt by Big Kev who also fitted a set of our door seals. He had to be coerced to do this job as Kev's hands are rather large, but they look original and the doors close very well. Read more: roverp5.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general31&thread=6664&page=1#50214#ixzz29LrYjLFVHi Kev the boot seal ive fitted from an old vauxhall fits ok looks ok and there arnt any leaks . In your opinion is it worth fitting the boot seal i got from scots australia ? Dean
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Post by David on Oct 16, 2012 10:11:06 GMT
I had a new boot seal fitted a few years ago and it caused no end of problems as it pushed the boot up proud of the body. I understand the boot seal was not supplied by Scotts.
Also I should add it was fitted by an experienced restorer, not me.
If you have it then fit it. If it isn't any good then you have lost nothing.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2012 10:18:17 GMT
If I'd fitted a vauxhall one and it did the job I'd be tempted to leave it on . I made the door seals on my Rover from standard sections after hearing about the aggro others had getting doors to fit correctly and the hassle of gluing sections together. My home brewed jobbies let the doors shut with a satisfying thud using one finger and are air tight all the way round.They might look slightly different when the doors open but I tend to drive it with all the doors (and boot) shut.
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Post by stan on Oct 16, 2012 11:53:30 GMT
If I'd fitted a vauxhall one and it did the job I'd be tempted to leave it on . I made the door seals on my Rover from standard sections after hearing about the aggro others had getting doors to fit correctly and the hassle of gluing sections together. My home brewed jobbies let the doors shut with a satisfying thud using one finger and are air tight all the way round. They might look slightly different when the doors open but I tend to drive it with all the doors (and boot) shut. Class ;D
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Post by Dean Hovland on Oct 16, 2012 12:04:21 GMT
Thank you. The advantage of leaving the doors open could be to let some heat in , my heater is needing attention. Ill wait until i get back to Spain and fit the Auzzie seal .
Dean
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Post by stan on Oct 16, 2012 13:23:44 GMT
You are talking to someone who drives a 1973 Vw Camper all year round! It makes a man of you. I have been seen with ski hat, ski jacket and blanket over knees in the past in that van ,before I fitted new heaters but still the Asthmatic heaters take a while to heat a large cab area.... ;-(
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Post by Dean Hovland on Oct 16, 2012 13:56:59 GMT
You are talking to someone who drives a 1973 Vw Camper all year round! It makes a man of you. I have been seen with ski hat, ski jacket and blanket over knees in the past in that van ,before I fitted new heaters but still the Asthmatic heaters take a while to heat a large cab area.... ;-( We used v dub camper to go surfing in all year round ,,, lots of fun . Took awhile to get from london to newquay mind.
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Post by David on Oct 16, 2012 14:01:47 GMT
Has anyone tried silicone spray or gel to soften both new and old rubbers? I found this softens the rubber quite considerably.
Teccos do a silicone based tyre and bumper spray which I have found very useful.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 16, 2012 15:46:57 GMT
Has anyone tried silicone spray or gel to soften both new and old rubbers? I found this softens the rubber quite considerably. Teccos do a silicone based tyre and bumper spray which I have found very useful. Good for Rubber David but not good if you want to do new paintwork in the same garage for a few years unless you like Fisheyes on your paintwork
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Post by David on Oct 16, 2012 15:52:24 GMT
Hear what you are saying John. Ideally do it off the car and away from the garage, or after you have finished painting.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2012 9:19:11 GMT
Stan, not much point in owning a beautiful classic car if any old part will do! Misses the point really
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2012 11:56:31 GMT
Stan, I'm not on the look out, I've just fitted one which will outlast me
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Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2012 13:19:15 GMT
I tried some of the stuff by Mer and it seems to soften rubber that's gone a bit hard.It also leaves a water repellant surface which has to be a good thing on seals
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Oct 17, 2012 15:05:33 GMT
I tried some of the stuff by Mer and it seems to soften rubber that's gone a bit hard.It also leaves a water repellant surface which has to be a good thing on seals Almost certainly silicone based - see above. I was recommended to use glycerol (or was it glycerine - I think Glycerol - one of them is a sugar and is sticky and the other isn't) Which I got a small bottle of from a chemists and it semed to work well on my 20 year old Daihatsu rubbers seals. ETA: Apparently I am talking rubbish about Glycerine V Glycerol as they are one and the same thing. Still wotk well on rubber seal though
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