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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 25, 2012 18:03:08 GMT
The course grade is usually red but I have used a courser one that was green I think it depends on the maker Loads on Fleabay
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Post by 71coupe on Oct 25, 2012 18:23:20 GMT
Cheers John I' ll look out for it. Can't wait to be able to jump in the van again and drive to a DIY place whenever I need too! I have to be a bit sneaky about what I do and use on the car at the moment as its at my Mums house and everything I do to it is 'messy' according to her. I'm there too while my wrist heals, but I will go mad if I don't do something useful with my good hand!!
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Post by stan on Oct 25, 2012 20:03:25 GMT
Olive oil? My boss used to tell me use milk on leather to feed the leather !! Think he was winding me up.
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Post by 71coupe on Oct 25, 2012 20:43:19 GMT
LOL I think so Stan. Apparently olive oil can be used to remove freshly spilt gloss paint from leather, not done much on mine to be honest and I'm out of thinners!!! Might need alcohol to shift it from the grain. I wonder if you can still get it from chemists?
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Post by stan on Oct 25, 2012 20:50:38 GMT
LOL I think so Stan. Apparently olive oil can be used to remove freshly spilt gloss paint from leather, not done much on mine to be honest and I'm out of thinners!!! Might need alcohol to shift it from the grain. I wonder if you can still get it from chemists? What to drink or to sort the leather out!! You can buy alcohol from Boots still - used for rubbing on aching joints
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Post by 71coupe on Oct 25, 2012 20:55:10 GMT
Unfortunately to sort the leather out. The Doc says it could interfere with the bone healing in my wrist if I drink it!!
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Post by 71coupe on Oct 26, 2012 17:02:55 GMT
Well I had another go at part of the console. The thinners had done the job ok. Turns out the raw leather, when damp, is same colour as the muck I was trying to get off!! I did manage to expose a bit of lighter colouring but it would never have looked the same after having that stuff painted over it!!! I also done a bit of experimenting with 'Finish' dishwasher tablets!!!
No. I haven't been sniffing them! Kept moist with a little warm water they make a great pumice stone for getting paint of leather!! The paint seems to leap out of the grain. If you turn it over the red stuff in the ball is great for breaking up the top surface.
It would be a good idea to wear gloves and mask when you do it but its a lot less smelly than thinners. I'll be keeping an eye out and feeding it as it drys out, so I'll let you know how I get on.
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Post by stan on Oct 26, 2012 17:33:26 GMT
Excellent idea. Try making a paste from baking soda also- no need for gloves on that one! If you want a cheap almost as good to Connolly Hide Food, get a massive tub of Leather cream for horses leather stuff, from charlies shops in Wales.Not sure if they llist it online. Lasts forever though , trying to find the name for you but my garage is somewhat scruffy at the moment and I cant see it?
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Post by 71coupe on Oct 26, 2012 17:52:54 GMT
I'll try the baking soda too Stan. Always good to have an alternative when you run out of something. I tried making the 'Finish' tabs into a paste but I think its best used as a rubbing pad. If you had a stiff enough brush you may be able to let it disolve into warm water and work it into the grain, letting the brush lift the paint away from the grain.
I've now got nice soft bits of cow coloured leather apppearing, although I'm expecting it to be yellowish when dry.
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Post by 71coupe on Oct 27, 2012 12:06:04 GMT
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Post by 71coupe on Oct 27, 2012 12:08:19 GMT
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 27, 2012 16:25:33 GMT
All I see is Saddle Tan
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Post by stan on Oct 27, 2012 16:37:40 GMT
It does look like saddle tan to me. Doesn't matter you shoul be able to colour it as you want.
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2012 16:51:31 GMT
I know this is going slightly off topic but caution is needed when using Connolly Hide Food for 40 year old leather. A couple of years ago, I used my hide food and it started lifting the colour so I contacted the people who took over the old Wimbledon factory and here's what they told me. Some might find it useful. Here it is.................................. My seats are original and I sent them some images. The nitro-cellulose-based coloured finishes which were used on your leather is what the Connolly Hide Care Cream was developed for. It was more of a preservation things to slow down finish wear, but it had started, it can cause more problems to some leathers. If you are experiencing colour loss then it will be either because it has been reconnollised at some point in its life or the clear protective top lacquer has broken down. It may be worth reclining the seats fully to see if there are any areas which may show if it has been refinished before. The old Connolly kits were also solvent based & the advise was to work in the first coat by hand for adhesion & then either spray a further coat or pat on with a cloth. As their kits were deemed to be self sealing, there was not a separate clear lacquer supplied, but rubbing in would also break down the original clear lacquer. Some tannery applied pigments had better covering power then others & the volume of finish applied determined how durable the finishes were & also how supple. Any colour with red or orange in the old solvent-based system were a particular problem with regards fading in sunlight & then dissolving if the clear lacquer broke down or was removed. It does not look like the leather has been refinished based on what I can see from the pictures, so we can only assume the protective lacquer has broken down (which after 40 years is expected). The white spirit the Hide Cream uses as an emulsifier is now removing the surface pigments. If you require a milder product with no white spirit in then our Claire Whiston Lotion will be best suited. www.leathercaredirect.com/shop_product.php?product_id=29&category_id=24. That said, you may find even washing too often with a mild soapy solution will have similar results if surface erosion has begun. The only way to rectify this problem is to refinish & relacquer the leather, but the solvent-based finishes are no longer available now, so it would have to be in the crosslinked water-based system used by tanneries today. We hope this sheds some light on your problem.
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Post by 71coupe on Oct 27, 2012 18:02:14 GMT
Hi, Thanks John, I'm pretty sure its Saddle Tan now. Had a pint with the previous owner this afternoon and he said Mulberry is a lot more purple than what is in the car. Has the piping and leathercloth always been a bit redish or is this an age/ U/V thing? Thanks for the info Crossplies, I will look at using something softer on the rear seats, although I will probably re-colour the fronts as the new bases will need it anyway.
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