The 4HP22 was fitted to lots of vehicles, but most of which were electronically controlled. It can easily be adapted to with with the appropriate Range Rover parts, but I am not sure whats involved with overiding the electronics..........although I know it can be done.
The Sherpa version is by far the easiest though, as its NOT electronic, and all the bits you need are there (provided you make sure you HAVE got them all from the seller)
Its a shame really, as I have now sold the four I had. Now I find I am wanting one again !
Another possibility is an Aisin Warner unit as fitted to some Volvo 740/840 models.
I believe these are now being fitted to Rover SD1s
Take 100 cars with Rover V8's, 50 of them fitted with 35 boxes, and 50 fitted with 65 boxes, give each the same amount of use, and I GUARANTEE you will have more problems to sort out with the 35. This is not anecdotal information, its about 20 years of rebuilding the boxes in P6B's, and from that I can tell you that although the 65 may well only be a development of the 35, it gives problems less by about 5:1.
Some terrible spelling on those links BTW. As well as some questionable information.
Harvey thanks for your views. Technical ability is not always associated with the ability to spell, to punctuate or even to use grammar correctly. Perhaps the English versions weren't as tough as the Aussie units which were upgraded progressively into the late 1980's. BW40 units had larger clutch drums, wider brake bands and a slightly beefier gear train (not interchangeable with the English components). BW51 units had a much beefier gear train than the BW40 and a one way clutch with an increased number of sprags as these gearboxes were fitted behind Fords very grunty inline fuel injected sixes of the period. The rear servo was further strengthened by a 3rd securing bolt. Anyone with mechanical knowledge of these boxes can fit the entire BW40 assembly into a 35 case, use the BW51 one way clutch, fit the latest valve body assembly and with a modicum of engineering skill fit the rear servo with the 3rd retaining bolt.
The Aussie development of the BW35 gearbox (35/40/51) was fitted behind engines in Fords, Valiants and of course P76s, ranging in capacity from 4.1 to almost 5 litres. It was also fitted and Warwick could probably correct me on this to the early 289ci Fords of the late 60's (1967?).
No, it's not the toughest auto around, but the unit illustrated many upgrades in this country because of Australia's generally very harsh conditions...great distances and extremes of weather throughout this continent. There is also a culture of larger family cars here and so the boxes were developed to suit local conditions and use.
Yes, they sure can Warwick...in Volvos and in Moorabbin if you want to try this option. The overdrive is not a lockup version. There is a post about the Aisin Warner on this tech site if you can find it.
These PDFs may be of interest as they provide useful exploded views of the range of BW automatic gearboxes. Also there is a useful PDF on Automatic Fluid Trans Temperatures and how to optimize transmission cooling. The PDF is written for fire trucks but the same rules apply to any automatic transmission under heavy duty.
Post by Roy of the Rovers on Sept 1, 2009 14:21:16 GMT
I've just seen this thread and thought I'd add some info passed on to me years ago by Graham Rigby.
He converted his V8 convertible to take the 4 speed auto from an 3 litre Opel Monza/Senator. The engines produced 160hp in basic/standard form and the gearboxes last well.
I seem to remember him saying you either remove 2 inches from the bellhousing and weld on the front 2 inches from the Rover bellhousing OR you do the same but cut the Opel Bellhousing back enough to ensure the splines are the same length.
Sorry for the vagueness but it was years ago he told me. I obtained one of these boxes so maybe I should get the tape measure out!
If you can sketch it up in profile from above and the side, and measure all the dimensions, I'll draw it up in AutoCAD and convert it to pdf for posting, e-mailing, etc.
The only way I'll be able to sketch it up is on a bit of paper, and I've tried shoving them in that tray thing on the computer and it just doesn't seem to work.
I'll take a few measurements and then anyone can add them to a diagram if they have one, but you have to remember that the casings are tapered and probably offset to one side so definitive measurements are easier said than done. If you're looking for comparable boxes you'd need the front to rear, width both sides of the c/l and height above and below the c/l which is what i'd planned on measuring.
How about taking a couple of profile photos Harvey? One from directly above, perhaps standing on a chair or step ladder to reduce parallax, and another from the side.
Print them off, write the dimensions on the drawing and then scan it and e-mail it to me. It will give me a staring point and then I can ask for other details if I need them. This would give people drawing to use for reference when measuring alternative boxes.