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Post by petervdvelde on May 29, 2017 17:49:21 GMT
Hi Peter, that's looking really good. I'm doing similar work on my car (but not a full strip down and not nearly as thoroughly as you are!) - I'm replacing the whole front wiring loom with a NOS loom that I've modified slightly for a few extras (fog lamp, hazard lamps etc), re-veneering some of the wood and re-furbishing the instruments. Could I ask a few questions: - On the veneer panel you've made for the instrument binnacle, how did you do the lettering for the warning lamps? I'm not veneering mine, but want to replace the vinyl sheet, but I'm struggling to come-up with a professional way to label the warning lamps. - If you get the opportunity, could you take a photo of how you've routed the loom under and up the steering column and to the binnacle? - How did you route the loom through the bulkhead holes without damaging the loom wrapping? The loom is quite inflexible and I don't want to damage my pristine loom when installing it! Realise its a lot to ask, but any info you could provide would be appreciated. Thanks. Hi Richard, No problems with answering your questions. -Lettering for the warning lamps: i used stickers which are bedded in the clear coat I also had one with white lettering which i used (http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/49/symbol-sheet). Had to combine some letters to get the word "oil pressure" as this was not on the sheet. If you are using clear coat, be careful that the glue of the sticker is not affected by the solvent in the clearcoat as the lettering may float. I used a solvent free clearcoat primer Don't make the panel too thick as the warning light housings have minimal thread. I had to remove the plastic triangular bracket between light housing and cover. -Routing wiring loom The wiring loom runs above the steering column and then it splits into a LH and RH parts (before the L shaped center bracket) and these run over the binacle housing bracket I hope this picture shows more. If not let me know, i may have some more dismantling pictures from another P5B -Fitting the loom It works much easier and it is worth to remove the bonnet hinges. On my project P5b it was easy as no bonnet hinges were fitted. When i converted my daily P5B from RHD to LHD, i removed the bonnet hinges. Not both at the same time but only one at a time at made a strap to the ceiling to keep the bonnet open and a wooden block to support the bonnet on the side where the hinge was removed. I first routed the loom and then fitted the grommet to the body. hope this helps you out and why don't you make a thread of your works. I always like to see other people's work and i believe there are more fellow P5 owners who like this. Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on May 29, 2017 17:53:17 GMT
quality work as ever, neat work on the relays. An alternative location is on the opposite side of the heater, I have an inertia switch there out of view. Cheers Colin. I will fit an inertia switch for the fuel system on the same position as yours is Peter
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Post by Colin McA on May 29, 2017 18:15:40 GMT
Consider fitting a buzzer with it.
I thought about it when I put the inertia on that one day it will trip and I will be scratching my head wondering why the pump has no power. Hasnt been used in anger but handy to disable the car or test power to the pump.
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Post by petervdvelde on May 29, 2017 18:38:29 GMT
i scrapped a SD1 for the engine and box for my MGB V9. This SD1 had a 3 pin oil pressure sender and the fuel pump didn't get power when there was no oil pressure. For power during cranking it was connected with the coil resistor
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Post by petervdvelde on Jun 15, 2017 18:11:15 GMT
Some progress made. Have fitted the front heater. Some time ago, i dismantled the heaters completely, got the parts powder coated or painted and all screws, brackets were zinc coated. Underneath a picture of a fresh heather and an original one Polished the SS heater pipes together with some other trim parts And fitted the heater with new hoses with SS hose clamps and the piping to the car Also picked up the fuel tank from the shed. After removing the fuel gauge pickup, i found a rather clean tank which i flushed with water and dried it with compressed air. After that threaded the outside with paint stripper as the paint was damaged due to storage After all piant was removed it was lightly sanded Then it got 2 coats of 2 pack primer and 2 pack black oaint [ Here is a picture of the fuel pickup (for Richard) with the longer plastic pipe inside which is for the reserve pickup and a filter The fuel gauge sender was stuck but easily freed and i checked it with a battery and gauge and it worked fine again Fitted the pick up and gauge sender to the tank and installed the tank into the car [ Still need to figure out which fuel lines i will use. Thats it for now Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Jun 22, 2017 20:25:23 GMT
Some progress to show. Cleaned and dismantled the drive shaft. The parts were shotblasted and the longer shaft was cleaned with a rotating wire brush on the grinder as it is too big for the cabinet. Some other parts were also done After shot blasting a layer of 2K primer was sprayed on the parts The long shaft was assembled with a new u-joint and then brought to a company for making it shorter due to the ZF box and get it balanced. After collecting it, all parts were painted with 2K black paint and made a start with the assembly with new rubber parts, bearing and u- joints. which soon let to a complete drive shaft assembly fitted this assembly to the car also fitted the rear shock absorbers After all the parts were fitted i made some gators from a piece of black leather and stitched this onto the springs Thats it for now Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Jul 10, 2017 22:35:53 GMT
Progress! Had the exhaust manifold coated and fitted these with new locking tabs Then prepared the SS exhaust for fitting. It is a well made system. Bought this from a Dutch Rover specialist. The first system was returned to them as it contained a few plain steel pipes. The only fault/difference i could find on this system was that the 2 pipes were closer to each other then with the original silencer so had tio make a new clamp out of SS sheet Fitting aftermarket (SS) exhaust system can be a pain in the *** as normally these need some rework which would not be easy with these pipe diameters. But not this one!!. It fitted like a glove without any trouble. fitting a SS exhaust system to my Laverda took me 2 days. Heating the pipes up - slight bending - check and this i don't know how many times. It went threw the center of the hole in the subframe Then fitted the cooling system for the ZF box. For my daily P5B, i fitted high pressure hoses as the nearby company couldn't supply low pressure hoses but the high pressure hoses were rather stiff. Found another compagny which could supply low pressure hoses which also have a smaller diameter Made a bracket for fitting the cooler. The recored radiator was fitting as its pretty tight there And made some pipes which run from the cooler and pass the radiator And made some pipes (+ brackets) which run along the engine sump/bellhousing With some bending, i was able to fit the Range Rover dip stick which was given a fresh coat of paint after removal of the rust and old paint Also gave the fan a fresh layer of red paint after it was shotblasted and got a coat of primer. Thats it for now Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Aug 5, 2017 21:36:55 GMT
Haven't dome much on the Rover due to checking over the MG and was on holiday and did some jobs in the garden. Received a Jaguar shifter cable from Andy (thanks again) which is less stiffer then the XJ40 cable i had and fitted it. Also installed the radiator and its hoses, the fan and some other things. Need to order a PAS hose, fit the rear heater and arrange a fuel line from the electric pump to the carbs and then it can run!. Also received a custom made speedo cable to connect the ZF box to the speedo, Most of the parts have been fitted to engine bay and i am happy with the way it looks. Thats it for now Peter
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Post by enigmas on Aug 5, 2017 22:06:12 GMT
Famtastic work Peter. When your done it should be the world's most pristine P5B coupe.
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Post by petervdvelde on Aug 16, 2017 20:41:16 GMT
Famtastic work Peter. When your done it should be the world's most pristine P5B coupe. cheers Vince. did some small jobs on the Rover. The XJ40 cable to connect the ZF transmission with the shifter didn't work well. Andy send me (Thanks Andy!) a cable from a more modern Jag which i also used for my daily Rover. This more flexible but has a wrong mounting bracket so i cut the original and made the right one from a piece of pipe and a plate. Some time ago, i repainted the fuel tank and now i assembled the parts on the filler side. The parts were got a new layer of zinc and /or paint The large diameter hoses were hardened so i bought a new piece of the right diameter Protected the paint with some duc tape as due to the stubborn inner pipe, its not easy to fit the filler cap housing This fitting took much more time then expected as the inner pipe is really stubborn. Next job was to fit the fuel lines from tank to the divider. Initially had the idea to replace the plastic lines by copper lines but the coonections to the tank and divider had different diameter connections so i checked and cleaned the plastic lines and these were in good nick. I had the clips send out for zinc coating but due to rust, these were heavily pitted (see the left one in the picture) so i made new ones out of 2mm SS These should last forever.... I already had made a bracket for the fuel pump which was suitable for the copper fuel lines but i couldn't fit the plastic lines. The first version As one often faces its 2 steps forward and one back, especially with modifications. I made some new brackets which gave enough clearance for the plastic lines to be fitted. Next job was to fit the rear heather which was completely dismantled and all parts were zinc coated, powder coated or painted. Its a shame its hiding underneath the rear seat fitted to the car which some black sealant Bought some plastic flexible hose as a kind of idolator for the rear heather hoses which run underneath the car Ordered some oil for the ZF box. when this arrives, its time to let the engine run so a great milestone in the build. Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Aug 23, 2017 18:20:51 GMT
It took some time for the oil to arrive as it was damaged during transport. took out the oil priming tool as the engine stood for a fair bit of time. Removed the distributor and inserted the priming tool Got oil pressure quick and installed the distributor and it was time to start up the engine. The engine fired up almost immediately but looking underneath the car it leaked cooling fluid. It soon became clear it came from the heater valve. After dismantling the heater valve it became clear that i had forgotten to fit the thick o-ring. At the time, i overhauled the heater i didn't have a new o-ring. Ordered it later but forgot to fit it. It was quickly found and installed. Second thing worried me was the oil pressure. Went to full scale and i thought the overpressure valve was stuck so i dismantled the oil pump housing and found it moved freely. Installed it again and fired up the engine again. no more leaks and after engine came on temperature the oil pressure dropped a little so its oke. It starts very well, runs smooth and has an excellent oil pressure. Need to adjust timing and carbs but these are not to bad as the choke is needed to start it from cold, it starts on the button and reacts good to the throttle. am very happy with the engine running smooth with no mechanical noises! A reel milestone it is! Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Sept 5, 2017 19:28:39 GMT
Spend a fair amount of time on reorganizing the shed and i now have a lot more room. Also spend some time on the Rover. Hadn't fitted the window wiper motor. It was in the "cleaned parts bin" It got the usual treatment: dismantling - inspection - some parts galvanised - some parts painted/powder coated - clean and assembled. Lubricated all parts with grease and installed it in the car and after blowing 2 fuses because of incorrect connected wires, it works smooth now Then started on the LPG section. My daily P5B runs on LPG and has a 60 liter tank which gives a sufficient radius of action but not great. I also have a 85 liter tank which i will now fit to the daily Rover and will fit the 60 liter tank to the project P5B. Made a frame for the 85 liter tank Made a cut out in the LH upper corner because of the battery. Thats it for now. Peter
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stef
Rover Rookie
Posts: 45
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Post by stef on Sept 15, 2017 13:38:09 GMT
Hello ; Do you have any details on how to fit the gearbox ZF 4hp22 ?
what is the provenance of the gearbox? Thank-you Stef
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Post by petervdvelde on Sept 15, 2017 22:12:24 GMT
Hi Stef,
There is a thread which describes all mods needed to fit this box (http://roverp5.proboards.com/thread/9913/fitting-zf-gearbox) which is from a LDV (Sherpa) van. It is also possible to fit a combined Jaguar XJ40/Range Rover box. I got my box from Andy (Eightofthem) who could help you with the right box
Peter
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stef
Rover Rookie
Posts: 45
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Post by stef on Sept 16, 2017 4:51:24 GMT
thank you Peter, I missed this post !!! Stef
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Post by GlennR on Sept 16, 2017 7:17:13 GMT
Fantastic work Peter
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Post by wozzer on Sept 17, 2017 18:58:50 GMT
It just gets better and better, words do not do this rebuild justice, well done peter. Woz
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Post by petervdvelde on Sept 24, 2017 20:01:49 GMT
Fantastic work Peter It just gets better and better, words do not do this rebuild justice, well done peter. Woz Thanks guys! Continued with installing the LPG system. After painting both tank frames, fitted the 85 L LPG tank in the daily Rover and the 60 L in the project Rover. The (tool) tray above the LPG tank comes from the daily Rover as it didn't fit anymore because of the larger tank. The holes in the body for the filler hose and the hose to the evaporator were made prior to the painting so no damage to the paintwork Before the car was dismantled a new evaporator was fitted but this was a few years ago and as an overhaul kit is only Euro 30,-, i decided to overhaul the evaporator Found a factory instruction manual on the internet and overhauled the evaporator Welded an flat piece of the steel to the bracket for fitting it to the car Installed the hose from tank to evaporator with stainless steel P-clips and integrated the filler connector in the LH rear light like i did on my daily Rover A picture of in the "filling" stage. The copper adapter on the picture has to be screwed onto the nipple in the rear light And in the "closed" stage Also bought a smart switch to choose either petrol or LPG. It also shows how much LPG is in the tank and can be programmed for several sender units (with different resistances) in the LPG tank. It also switches off automatically the LPG valves when the engine is not running. Underneath a picture of the evaporator and valve fitted. Have to connect the evaporator with the cooling system and fit the mixers and then the fitting of the LPG system is completed.. Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Oct 5, 2017 19:17:54 GMT
Continued with the installation of the LPG system. Had to make a connection between cooling system and evaporator and choose to add some piping to the SS heater piper. Bought a 15 mm SS pipe which needed to be bent. Filled it up with sand and heated it up with a torch. Welded it onto the heather pipe after making a hole Made a connection to the other heather pipe as well Then fitted the water hoses and the elbows with the mixers installed After some adjustment of the mixture screw on the evaporator, the car now runs and starts on LPG. Final adjustment still needs to be done with an exhaust gas analyzer but i don't have such a tool. Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Oct 15, 2017 19:21:25 GMT
Some progress to the car. Most work on the mechanical items has been done so did several jobs interior related. Took the tool board in the boot, cleaned it and had a set of clips galvanized Removed the clips, sanded the wooden plate, gave it a few coats of varnish and fitted the galvanized clips Gave the polyester battery a few layers of clear coat to strengthen it Fitted the battery with the clamp and the RC main switch. Also made new hardura trim for the wheel wells and cleaned and fitted the hardura trim above the battery box. Made a bypass on the main switch with line fuse for the clock. Also fitted a plug on the bumper mount for charging the battery. Then i don't have to remove the battery cover. This will be mainly used in the winter time when the car will be under a cover and i can charge the battery without removing the cover and the metal battery cover powdercoated and the hardura cover Also did the LH side That's it for now Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Nov 12, 2017 20:37:52 GMT
Some progress on the interior of my Rover. The wooden interior panels still had some imperfections and small dust particles so i carefully wet sanded the panels with grid 2000 and then polished these. They look very nice now. Then started fitting the hinges, brackets and other stuff. Also fitted the mounting brackets and led strip to the wooden panel near the gear selector. Also wired up the LED strip The Led strip is behind the white strip Test fitted some wooden panels in the car After posting a question about where to buy headlining material, Velvet was so kind to send me the material. I am very pleased with this as i couldn't find a place to buy it. With the material for the headlining (which was completely stitched!), he also send me material for the panel fitted between headlining and rear window, material for the quarter light panels and ready stitched sun visors. Can't thank him enough! The sun visors were in pretty poor condition On the picture above you see a new sunvisor, the frame, the old and the old and new foam. There is a big difference in color caused by dirt! Carefully fitted the frame and the 2 foam pieces into the new sunvisor which was a tight fit and took some time to get the foam in the good position. Then folded the two layer of vinyl to the inside and applied pin to hold it As the interior work needs a fair bit of stitching, i was looking for a sewing machine. Modern household ones are not good when it comes to stitching vinyl and other thick fabric so i had a look at used industrial sewing machines. Soon i found out that these are very expensive (Between Euro 500, and 900,-) As i don't know much about sewing machines, it would be difficult to find out if a machine was good or worn. Then i saw old Singer sewing machines on the internet and learned that these are very well build, can handle rather thick material. A high speed is not important for me as due to my inexperience, i cannot handle the high speeds. I found out that the Singer with a food pedal (without an electric motor) were strong machines capable of handling lots of materials. These machines are plenty available and are cheap (cost betweem Euro 50 and 100) and are no longer in use but standing in living rooms as antique. I was lucky to find one with a food pedal but this was later equipped with a Singer electric motor and came with lots of accessorizes and needles and even an original instruction manual. It was build somewhere around 1940-1950. The sewing machine hadn't been used for a long time, was locked solid and the motor wasn't working either. From the internet i knew that this wasn't a big problem as all the bushes, shafts ect were build to last and after partly dismantling it, cleaning it and lubricating it worked smooth again. Everything is really build to last forever. No plastic gears or bushes. I also dismantled the motor, cleaned the brush surfaces and rewired it as it still had old cotton wires. After that it ran perfect. Also made a frame with some wheels as it was very low After doing tests to adjust the wire tension, the first job was to stitch the sunvisors which worked well. Also made new panels for the quarterlight as these were in pretty poor condition Some time ago i had removed lots of clips from old panels and door cards and had these got a zinc bath. I couldn't find these new and don't like other clips. Fitted the clips with a small pop rivet to the board With new hard board base and foam the new ones look good The hard board base of the panel between headlining and rear window was in good condition and all clips were fine so only new foam and vinyl was needed New foam fitted. like the original, a strip was not covered with foam. It slides underneath the headlining there New and old. It was definitely needed to fit new material. Also worked on the headlining. Got the frame back to bare metal and gave it a coat of epoxy primer As the frame is not very rigid, i decided to make a frame where i could attach the frame to As the frame sits in the car with some tension , i made the connection between frame and headlining frame adjustable so i could setup the same width of the frame in the car onto the frame. Here is a picture of the adjustable connection Then fitted the headlining material to the frame Velvet did a wonderful job on stitching the sleeves for the rods. These are in the right position. I haven;t finalized it yet as i need some advise from Velvet but he currently is in Italy. Thats it for now Peter
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Post by enigmas on Nov 13, 2017 6:04:16 GMT
Once again you're a marvel Peter. The antique sewing machine you renovated is very similar to the one my wife inherited from her mother (a dress maker). It's a singer commercial fitted with what looks to be a 1/4 hp electric motor (washing machine sized).
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 13, 2017 8:18:01 GMT
Peter the Frame will compress when you fit it so I put tension on mine to slightly less than it was when it was fitted bare in the car, so when fitted the Vinyl will not sag! so glue nothing yet! Just seen your previous post we are singing from the same song sheet Peter
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Post by petervdvelde on Nov 13, 2017 18:43:50 GMT
Once again you're a marvel Peter. The antique sewing machine you renovated is very similar to the one my wife inherited from her mother (a dress maker). It's a singer commercial fitted with what looks to be a 1/4 hp electric motor (washing machine sized). Thanks Vince. The motor on my sewing machine is rather small and positioned on the machine. I quess the one your wife has inherited is underneath the table and much bigger. For now mine is fine Peter the Frame will compress when you fit it so I put tension on mine to slightly less than it was when it was fitted bare in the car, so when fitted the Vinyl will not sag! so glue nothing yet! Just seen your previous post we are singing from the same song sheet Peter Thanks john, i know. Before i started working on the headlining, i did "search" on this subject and saw your post. I fitted the frame in the car and then measured the width on 2 positions. When its not in the car, the width of the headlining frame is 10mm wider. I can fit the headlining frame in my frame and with the adjustable mountings, i can kind of press it until it has the same width as in the car and then fit the vinyl onto the headlining frame. So it should not be sagging once fitted in the car. Peter
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Post by velvet on Nov 14, 2017 16:25:42 GMT
Wonderful work as ever Peter.!
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