Gauge lighting & screen washers

[gilbern]

Hi all,
just bought my very first Rover : P5B.( 1970 Saloon: Burnt Grey colour ) I drove it home yesterday through London traffic.
I got a few thumbs up & waves from other road users. I took my wife out in the car last night & we are both very happy with the car & the excellent ride.
 
However I have noticed a few minor points ( it's 43 year old, so I do expect issues)

1. All the gauge lights are very dim....ie: cannot read them at night : I have tried to alter the setting on the dashboard switch : after reading the owners manual last night.
2. I have no screen washers either.

Before I get the bonnet open with a volt meter & start checking, I thought I would ask for help on here first. 

Thanks Julian

[Simon H]

Hello Julian and welcome to the fold... I bought my first ever P5B in September and no doubt you're on a similar learning curve to myself. I am happy enough tinkering with Rover V8 engines but the rest of the car is new to me. However, I can offer a tip with regards your screen washers. Do you still have the original Trico washer bottle with the grey lid with integrated pump? Does the motor get 12 volts and a good earth but doesn't go? If so you might be able to coax it back into life by following these steps:

1. Unscrew the washer bottle lid and invert it so that you can see the 'other' end of the pump.

2. Carefully undo the 2 Philips screws on the end of the pump and carefully remove the end cap taking care not to damage any seal that may be fitted.

3. You can now see the impeller that is the business end of the pump. (In reality it's just a little rubbery star shaped thing on the end of the motor shaft)

4. Clean out any grot with a suitable brush and warm soapy water. (DON'T use WD40 or similar as it may well end up on your windscreen...)

5. Clean up the end cap and seal.

6. Using a pair of blunt tweezers or small pointed nose pliers GENTLY try to turn the impeller. With a bit of luck it will turn. If not, then you might have to be not so gentle - just bear in mind the fragile state of the rubbery impeller.

7. Assuming that the impeller turns by hand, give it a go on the the push button. It won't do any harm for the motor to run without pumping anything - in fact will will give it a bit of exercise!

8. Use a bit of screen wash as an assembly lubricant and put the end cap & seal back on. DO NOT over tighten!

9. With a bit of luck the job is a good 'un!

Let us know how you get on!

Simon H

[Phil Nottingham]

Gauge lighting is dim but more so if the dimmer switch slider is corroded or the bulbs blackened. I replace mine with Leds - special MES versions.

Plenty on SEARCH with this

[newboy]

Nov 1, 2013 18:17:14 GMT Phil Nottingham said:

Gauge lighting is dim but more so if the dimmer switch slider is corroded or the bulbs blackened. I replace mine with Leds - special MES versions.

Plenty on SEARCH with this

Hi Phil,
could you post a link to where you bought the LED's please and the codes/sizes etc. thanks in advance.

[Phil Nottingham]

I got mine from Ultraleds - this was some years ago and they were new.
www.ultraleds.co.uk/led-product-catalogue/automotive-led-bulbs.html?limit=all

They do not seem to do MES 12v now but Ebay has plenty though I have not tried these they look to be OK

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-White-LED-MES-Filament-Replacement-Bulb-100-Deg-2pk-/121183854324?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item1c371edef4

Other panel bulbs used in warning lights are BA7 and BA9 eg Clock is BA7

Note I tried Leds in the rear lights and side lights (BA15s and BA9) but they were invisible and dangerous in partial light because of the distance from and design of the Rover lamps lenses They were just OK in the dark but I removed them as got fed of being flashed.

I left them in the rear light 2 x BA9 and 1 x B15 for the reverse

Note its not advisable to use them in the indicators either for the same reason and you will need a new flasher unit.

The Festoon Leds are good in the interior lights

[gilbern]

Thanks Phil: The gauge lights have improved with some work & I have replaced the bulb in the drive selector.

Thanks Simon: followed the instructions (cleared out the almost solid mass of sludge in the bottle) & overhauled the electrics.
They now all working fine.

Rainxed the front windscreen too.

I used the car for yesterdays commute. Its driving fine apart from the 1st cold start. That needs careful use of the choke to keep running & not stall when drive is engaged. I think it just called "character" of the car. It makes me smile as I glide through the traffic. Definitely a car to be used & enjoyed.

Julian

[nigelb]

How many MES,BA7 and BA9 bulbs do you need to do all of the dash and lower dials

[Phil Nottingham]

Off- hand I cannot remember but its on Search

[benedict_h]

Sept 21, 2019 20:03:55 GMT benedict_h said:

Nov 21, 2013 15:27:20 GMT nigelb said:

How many MES,BA7 and BA9 bulbs do you need to do all of the dash and lower dials

Hi
Found this checklist in my Evernote archive:

bonnet (2)
capless w2.1x9 5W
capless warm white
done

boot (1)
Bayonet 9 mm 4W
ATAT 4W IE412EG
warm white
done

gear change (1)
36 mm festoon
festoon white
done

courtesy lights (4)
38 mm festoon
festoon warm white
done

switches (4)
BA7s
white
done

speedo + tacho (2)
E10 MES
E10 warm white
done

instruments coupe (4)
E10 MES
E10 warm white
Done

reverse light (1)
Bayonet 21W
warm white
done

licence plate illumination (2)
Bayonet 9 mm 5W
warm white
done

handbrake (1)
BA7s
white
check > too bright

rear heater (1)
BA7s
white
done

side lights (2)
0,9 mm 5W
warm white
done

brake / tail (2)
Bayonet 21W / 5W
warm white
done

clock (1)
BA7s
white
done

warning lights oil + alt (2)
E10 MES
warm white
to do
on order

Rgds
Benedict