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Post by jeffbarnes49 on Mar 20, 2014 16:55:15 GMT
hi can someone please advice me on which colour wires connect wiper motor to loom on 1970 rover p5b coupe v8 please help .jeff thanks guys
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 20, 2014 17:22:55 GMT
hi can someone please advice me on which colour wires connect wiper motor to loom on 1970 rover p5b coupe v8 please help .jeff thanks guys Can you recognise the wire colours from the motor Jeff
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Post by jeffbarnes49 on Mar 21, 2014 17:34:51 GMT
some of them are clear red black white the others are a bit difficult and any idea how many go into double joins if I can find whitch ones go in paires it may help thanks for any help you can give jeff
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 21, 2014 19:27:10 GMT
some of them are clear red black white the others are a bit difficult and any idea how many go into double joins if I can find whitch ones go in paires it may help thanks for any help you can give jeff I can give you all the colours to the motor Jeff but that wont help if you are unsure of the motor wire colours! I will send you a PM
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Post by jeffbarnes49 on Mar 21, 2014 20:22:34 GMT
hi will look at motor colour wires tomorrow thanks
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 24, 2014 18:52:56 GMT
Jeff as promised hear is a picture of my motor I rewired my motor today in PVC to show the colours at least you can trace them through if your wires are indistinct! Green and Brown on the left, then Green and Blue and Green (why these are connected together twice inside the motor and in the loom? maybe used on another car and used elsewhere?), Red and Green(with Red Switch wire)then Green and White. I also posted a pic of my motor prior to lubrication, I also skimmed the armature it was very good anyway but while it was all in bits it was all washed out and lubed ;)I am trying some grease used in Veteran Motorcycle gearboxes very runny compared to normal grease! A picture of an Armature from a friends motor I did last year! he connected it incorrectly the copper is Black
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Post by Warwick on Mar 25, 2014 2:38:14 GMT
John,
Would you congratulate Graham Stagg on behalf of all of us please?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 25, 2014 6:35:16 GMT
John, Would you congratulate Graham Stagg on behalf of all of us please? Whooosh that's straight over my head Warwick
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Post by Simon H on Mar 25, 2014 7:31:12 GMT
Warwick has been reading your newspaper...
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 25, 2014 8:31:53 GMT
Thanks Simon am I supposed to catch on at 6.30 in the morning daft Aussie bug8er I have made this a Sticky as a lot of guys have asked the same question in the past, as we know the cloth covered cables loose their colours and make a simple task a difficult one
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Post by Warwick on Mar 26, 2014 2:30:02 GMT
Thanks Simon, He's getting old and slow and needs a bit of gentle help now and then.
People have tried to explain this to me before, but not having pulled one apart, I still don't understand how the park-off-the-screen mechanism works.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 26, 2014 6:33:53 GMT
Thanks Simon, He's getting old and slow and needs a bit of gentle help now and then. People have tried to explain this to me before, but not having pulled one apart, I still don't understand how the park-off-the-screen mechanism works. A clue switch, armature and position of cam lever, I need to lie down now my I need to recuperate
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Post by djm16 on Mar 26, 2014 7:04:41 GMT
Wiper parking - When you switch off the wipers you are in fact just reversing polarity to the wiper motor. It then goes in reverse, until a lug on the rotor hits the internal supply isolator and the motor stops (in park).
Reconnecting the wiper in the normal direction bypasses this switch.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 26, 2014 19:08:37 GMT
Wiper parking - When you switch off the wipers you are in fact just reversing polarity to the wiper motor. It then goes in reverse, until a lug on the rotor hits the internal supply isolator and the motor stops (in park). Reconnecting the wiper in the normal direction bypasses this switch. Well that spoiled my Warwick windup djm16 just to add in the off position the motor switch temporarily grounds the red wire at the park position (which is adjustable) so you get instant brake effect.
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Post by Warwick on Mar 27, 2014 2:53:01 GMT
Sorry, that still doesn't help. I know how self-park normally works. What I don't understand is how the blades park off the screen in a location that is well beyond the normal arc of their sweep. They're powered by a motor driving a rotating gear with a crank arm attached. This converts the rotating action into a reciprocating motion driving the push-pull cable drive. The reciprocating cable in turn engages with the gear in the wheel box of the wiper arm's pivot, giving the spindle an oscillating rotary motion. The attached wiper arm and blade then oscillates back and forth through an arc on the screen.
How then do you make the blades park down on the scuttle below the windscreen, well outside the range of the arc that is determined by the revolving gear in the motor and the crank attached to it? You would need to disengage the cable from the crank and move it separately as far as I can see.
Obviously, if I pulled mine apart I'd probably see how it worked and the (apparent) mystery would be solved. But John W has strictly forbidden me to dismantle any more of the car. I'm expected to reassemble.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 27, 2014 16:57:21 GMT
I suppose the poor old fella will have to put you out your misery Warwick can I remember?? I have recall The arm that runs from the Cam Spigot to the Flexible Drive Cable has a Concentric Insert (180 degrees) that gives extra length only when the motor is reversed! that only happens during the short park period, another reason why it is important to get the adjustment correct
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 27, 2014 18:11:12 GMT
Its all about angles and levers/arcs
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Post by Warwick on Mar 28, 2014 2:13:09 GMT
Ahha. Very clever. Any chance of a photo? I presume that part is missing from your previous photo. So with a bit of tweaking, I could get them to park in the glovebox.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 28, 2014 6:22:09 GMT
Ahha. Very clever. Any chance of a photo? I presume that part is missing from your previous photo. So with a bit of tweaking, I could get them to park in the glovebox. I will post you a picture later Warwick there is also a special washer comes into the equation, so I will show all the pieces
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 28, 2014 8:28:51 GMT
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Post by eisdielenbiker on Sept 8, 2014 8:51:31 GMT
A few days ago this thread helped me a lot. For the second time in my 6 years of P5 life the wiper motor had failed. Apparently it was not the motor itself but at least a hard going drive cable caused the 10-amp-fuse to fail. I know that 15-amp is standard. But I can definitely recommend using 10-amp. You save your motor. I already have a burnt one from 2008. The 2nd motor possibly did fail not just for the cable drive but for the switch too. This is where this thread mainly came to my interest: I had always wondered why the parking position was only reached by keeping the dash switch a short way before the off-position to disengage the wipers correctly. The remedy was simple. I have dismantled and cleaned out the debris from plastic and a little rust and lubricated the switch after checking. No problem with springs or special tools. Now the switch works like new I guess. The proof was a severe thunderstorm last weekend i got into.
Of course another but minor problem showed up. I am missing the halogen bulbs in the headlights. I hardly saw anything on the rainy road if one of the few cars were approaching from the front. My wife and my 2 children thought the lights were off... Until yesterday I had thougt the standard lamps would do sufficiently.
Regards Mark
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Post by gingerbeer62 on Jan 11, 2015 13:16:00 GMT
Hello, Thank you all for the info so far. It is just great to be amongst other struggling Rover fanatics. I am new to the Forum and am after some advice that does not seem to have been covered so far. I think that I have repaired the wiper switch even though it was wired up completely different to the manual. The park/reverse has not worked since I have had the car so that is probably the problem. i have not altered the wiring until I am sure what I am doing. Although working before, the fuse has blown and this stimulated me into fixing the switch as I knew it was "dicky" However, I cannot get the motor to run on the bench and putting a battery on it just results in a big spark on one line (like direct to earth) and a smaller spark on another. I have checked the ohms reading on rotation of the rotor and the stator coil seems intact. anyone got any ohms readings to compare? It does not run at all and I have to admit that at the moment the wiring is confusing me. There are 5 wires coming out of the motor and two are connected together which puts the circuit through the stator coil and then through the brushes. Any sharing of experiences would be good. I hope the rain stays away as my Ford Cosworth Scorpio had also decided to B****r it's radiator up. Whoever thought that plastic radiator headers were a good idea? Unless I can fix that it's going to cost me £350 at least. Cheers Colin
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jan 11, 2015 13:44:55 GMT
Colin if you have followed the wires as per pictures I posted and matched the colours it should work fine as long as the field winding is not OC and you have continuity between all the Armature segments all difficult to measure with an OHM meter, also double check the switch wiring and indeed the switch.
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Post by gingerbeer62 on Jan 11, 2015 14:29:51 GMT
Thank you for that. I have got the unit on the bench at the moment and am trying to see if it works with a battery supply. I have 8.5 ohms on the Stator coil and 1.4 ohms on the rotor segments which seem to be ok when you rotate it by hand. Goes on and off of course but when it come to rest it is always about 1.4 ohms. Seems reasonable to me but the rotor resistances may be a bit low. What you think? The set up was - wire to the stator coil - through the coil and then the other side of the coil was connected to the first brush and the other brush connected to a wire coming out and also to the shut off switch in the top. Can't make head nor tail of it at the moment. Cheers Colin
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 11, 2015 14:33:35 GMT
Simple geometry of link lengths for the arcs going in reverse
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