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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Mar 27, 2014 15:36:21 GMT
Im not sure if I've asked this before so please forgive me if I have!
When coasting in the Rover you reach a speed where the car is in harmony with the drivetrain speed and the whole car is coasting. I then find that if I touch the throttle slightly it takes up the slack and you get a clonk from the drive train. Its quite noticeable as well when the car changes down when you are slowing for a junction.
I've replaced the UJ's and the centre prop bearing so I assume it to be slack in the diff.
I've been told that there is a large nut in diff which can be pinched up which will remove slack like this.
Can anyone confirm this and talk me through some proper instructions?
The clonk is probably the most irritating thing in the car for me (apart from trying to set up the handbrake!) and spoils an otherwise nice journey.
thanks
Roy
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Post by petervdvelde on Mar 27, 2014 15:55:11 GMT
Roy, Then the fiber shims could be worn or the shaft of the small gears. These are rather cheap items to replace as these part are also in early Land rovers. I overhauled my diff and with a press it is not a difficult job roverp5.proboards.com/thread/6631/diff-rebuild Regards Peter |
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Post by enigmas on Mar 27, 2014 22:12:04 GMT
Peter's on the money Roy. The clonk is due to the planetary gears having worn thrust washers. This is not unusual on any high mileage differential. Once you check these gears you'll see that it's obvious. You'll also notice it going from first to reverse.
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Post by Warwick on Mar 28, 2014 2:05:22 GMT
Roy,
Multiply that by 3 diffs, a gearbox, a transfer case, and 2 prop shafts, and you've got an old Range Rover. There's nothing quite like backlash amplified. It hones the gear-changing and throttle skills.
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Mar 28, 2014 12:23:21 GMT
I wish I could say it was from all the burnouts and donuts I've been doing in the car... sadly not! Better get a price for a rebuild then..
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Mar 28, 2014 12:40:51 GMT
Peter, is there any chance you could pull together the list of all the parts you ordered and the part numbers if you still have them? I have contacted a local company who said they can do it for between £100 and £200 plus the parts. He wont be able to price the parts until he sees the diff or has part numbers?
Can you or anyone else help with this?
Thanks
Roy
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 28, 2014 19:04:49 GMT
Peter, is there any chance you could pull together the list of all the parts you ordered and the part numbers if you still have them? I have contacted a local company who said they can do it for between £100 and £200 plus the parts. He wont be able to price the parts until he sees the diff or has part numbers? Can you or anyone else help with this? Thanks Roy This is worth a look Roy Diff Rebuild |
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Post by petervdvelde on Mar 28, 2014 19:34:07 GMT
Hello Roy,
Underneath you find the diff parts i bought at Dingocroft, the diff bearing and some other stuff i bought at Aschcroft (where John referred to) as i know they supply good brand bearings. The price was GBP 96,-. The wheel bearings, seals and spacers, i bought at our club.
I couldn't find the gear set at Aschcroft. You could also choose to let Aschcroft overhaul the diff. They overhauled my 4ZF HP22 automatic transmission and i bought parts for an LT77 box with them and they are reliable and have good quality service and work.
Regards
Peter
Shopping Cart (Prices in British Pounds)
REF DESCRIPTION QUANTITY PRICE COST
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
272922 Locker Differential Bolts 6 GBP0.25 GBP1.50
7316 Gasket for Differential to 1 GBP0.50 GBP0.50
Axle Casing
539703 Cross-shaft for Differential 1 GBP6.00 GBP6.00
553412= Brass Gasket Differential 1 GBP1.00 GBP1.00
Nose
RTC4489 Gear Set - Differential 1 GBP45.00 GBP45.00
515599 Washer for Drain Plug 1 GBP0.74 GBP0.74
==========================================================================================
Subtotal: GBP54.74
Shipping (Standard Shipping): GBP16.00
VAT: GBP14.15
Total: GBP84.89
******************************************************
Sincerely,
Dingocroft
(Penn Rental Service Ltd t/a),
High Street, Downley,
High Wycombe,
Buckinghamshire
HP13 5XJ
United Kingdom
01494 448367
01494 459964
sales@dingocroft.co.uk
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Mar 29, 2014 8:04:08 GMT
Is it worth me getting one of these and getting it rebuilt? That way the car won't be off the road. Does it sound like these are the right ones? bit.ly/1jGjx57 |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 29, 2014 8:21:15 GMT
They are the correct ones Roy 3.54 whether it's worth it or not? I can see where you are coming from doing a swap over and time off the road, it would depend on turnaround time having your own done.
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Mar 31, 2014 11:13:50 GMT
A couple of hours apparently John! They are only 20 mins drive from me...
Would the 4.7 ratio ones be too high for the P5 and kill any kind of acceleration? (or have I got that the wrong way around??!) Or would any effect be slight?
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Post by enigmas on Mar 31, 2014 13:26:29 GMT
Roy...if you fit a 4.7 diff to you car you should be able to pull the Titanic out of it's ocean bed.  |
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Mar 31, 2014 13:34:07 GMT
3.54 it is then!!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 31, 2014 16:56:58 GMT
Right choice Roy  as Vince says 4.7 would be the wrong way to go! well at least with the company close and a quick turnaround it shouldn't be too much time off the road  |
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Apr 9, 2014 11:43:20 GMT
The 'spare' diff has been received by P & R Gearboxes now. They have had some urgent work come in and I've said Im in no hurry for the diff so they will strip it later in the month when things calm down. Happy with that as long as I dont spend the money in the meantime!
I walked around my car looking at the small bits that needed improving. I ordered a number of items such as missing jacking point bung, indicator rubber boots and gaskets, weatherstrip kit, over rider rubbers etc. It doesnt look much in the box when it arrived but a very easy way to spend £100 with Mr Wadhams! Oh well she's worth it!
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Jun 10, 2014 13:12:22 GMT
My diff has been rebuilt, the engineer sourced a replacement excellent crownwheel and pinion for the diff as the one that was supplied was showing wear. Its now all rebuilt and ready to collect...Yay! I just have to pay for it  £300 plus the vat. (£299,999,600 removed!) Oh well, time for a few doughnuts for the benefit of youtube before I change it !  hehe |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2014 15:34:25 GMT
300 million sounds a little heavy Roy. Did you get a couple of freebies?!
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Post by guidedog on Jun 11, 2014 14:12:08 GMT
Peter you can expect to pay at £50..00 P H . So its not far away
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Post by djm16 on Jun 12, 2014 12:06:06 GMT
Can I suggest that before you install you check that there is perceptible (minimum 5 thou - from memory) backlash at all points on the crown wheel.
Similarly, check the nose cone pre-load. Assuming that the nose bearings are new, there is a pre-load setting for these bearings adjusted with internal shims. It is an absolute pregnant dog to set especially if you have to start by cutting your own shims from stock.
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Post by cyf on Jun 12, 2014 12:29:51 GMT
I'm waiting for the pictures Roy , because I have the same irritating "clonk" and want to see how to fix it. I have a spare rear axle and wonder if it's worth doing the rebuild myself or leave it to a company. |
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Post by enigmas on Jun 12, 2014 13:14:13 GMT
Whoa! Slow down Cyf before you blow your bank roll. Unless it's noisy on drive or over-run you'll probably find that it's only the thrust washers on the planetary gears in the differential that need replacing. That's the 'clonk' you hear when going from first to reverse. Not harmful or expensive just annoying.
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Post by norvin on Jun 12, 2014 13:36:02 GMT
My car has the same clonk and I have had my box rebuilt, I have thought that it could be the slack in the diff as you say when I go from first or D into reverse it gives quite a clonk but if I select N then go back into reverse the conk is not so bad and I suppose that is because the slack has been taken up, mind you if the idle is low the clonk is not so bad, I agree it does spoil the car so could I do this job myself? my car has done 82000 miles.
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Post by cyf on Jun 12, 2014 14:54:04 GMT
Enigmas, thank you to calm me down! The clonk is when I go in Reverse, but not when the engine is cold, and when I drive slowly in town by example: the car is in 2nd and goes in 3rd with the clonk. When I drive faster the gear change between 2nd and 3rd is smooth. There's no clonk or noise in other circontances
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Post by Deleted on Jun 12, 2014 15:58:50 GMT
Mine was only from second down to first which was discussed here years ago.
I think there are different types of clonks or better said different reasons.
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Post by cyf on Jun 12, 2014 17:23:48 GMT
Yes, and the French clonk is may be not quite the same as the English one, due to translation issues
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as Vince says 4.7 would be the wrong way to go! well at least with the company close and a quick turnaround it shouldn't be too much time off the road 
£300 plus the vat. (£299,999,600 removed!)
hehe
