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Post by Tim Goddard on Jul 26, 2014 14:55:12 GMT
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Post by petrolhead allan on Jul 26, 2014 17:05:00 GMT
Having verified the thread direction, I would have tried the same things! Assuming that the nut can be replaced (Dave Green, perhaps) then I would try mig welding a steel bar on to the nut. The heat will help, and you will have a big, fixed lever you can put some weight on!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 26, 2014 18:29:36 GMT
Are you 100% certain you're not trying to push it the wrong way? Left hand thread on o/s and RH thread on n/s. The reason I say that is because the inner nut is only slightly tightened and then set back a couple of holes to set the end float.In addition, it's only a fairly shallow nut with not that much thread and usually a bit greasy as well so to be locked solid is extremely unlucky and unusual. |
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Post by petervdvelde on Jul 26, 2014 18:40:47 GMT
Tim,
When i dismantled the front hubs of my rover, I found that the nut and the locking ring were fitted incorrectly. They had fitted the locking ring with the large number of holes first and then the nut and locked it with the small pin. It was difficult to dismantle the small pin . On your picture it looks like the locking ring is already dismantled but just to make sure
Peter
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Post by vincentacres on Jul 27, 2014 8:01:06 GMT
This is the order you should have found (step by step) as you removed the various parts (after prising off the cap) - I replaced mine both sides a few months ago as part of my (still not completed) front end rebuild with kits from Wadhams. Hope this may help? Regards, Owen     |
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Post by vincentacres on Jul 27, 2014 8:04:43 GMT
Must be an image limit I wasn't aware of??? Below missing image that didn't make my last post… Also looking back at my photo's I don't have in the sequence of the part you are having difficulty removing but yopu can see wher it sit's in the order from the other pictures….  |
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Post by Tim Goddard on Jul 27, 2014 8:33:24 GMT
Are you 100% certain you're not trying to push it the wrong way? Left hand thread on o/s and RH thread on n/s. The reason I say that is because the inner nut is only slightly tightened and then set back a couple of holes to set the end float.In addition, it's only a fairly shallow nut with not that much thread and usually a bit greasy as well so to be locked solid is extremely unlucky and unusual. I made sure of the tread direction as each side is different. I know what you are saying though as I see from Owen's pictures, that the inner nut is quite shallow. |
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Post by Tim Goddard on Jul 27, 2014 8:35:10 GMT
Must be an image limit I wasn't aware of??? Below missing image that didn't make my last post… Also looking back at my photo's I don't have in the sequence of the part you are having difficulty removing but yopu can see wher it sit's in the order from the other pictures…. Thanks for the pics Owen, they are very helpful. |
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Post by djm16 on Jul 27, 2014 22:53:46 GMT
I can see that the inner nut (with holes) is slghtly blued, from overheating sometime?
Since you have the outer nut off you clearly know which way to turn it. What you need is something similar to the tool used for removing the collets from an angle grinder. With a welder you could make up something similar. Probably quicker than waiting for the part from Greens etc. And no, it should not be remotely tight.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 28, 2014 7:09:57 GMT
I can see that the inner nut (with holes) is slghtly blued, from overheating sometime? Since you have the outer nut off you clearly know which way to turn it. What you need is something similar to the tool used for removing the collets from an angle grinder. With a welder you could make up something similar. Probably quicker than waiting for the part from Greens etc. And no, it should not be remotely tight. Tim, I can only see the one image on Photobucket. Is that right? Did you remove the key washer and the peg BEFORE you took that image? Is it possible that whoever assembled the hub last, put the key washer on first and then pushed the peg through the inner nut after tightening thus locking the inner nut in place. Is there any sign of the peg in any of the four holes as it may be there and rusted. I know this is a bit of a long shot but something must be seriously wrong to lock the inner nut solid and which won't budge even with a punch.It's only more or less hand tightened as it sets the end float. |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 28, 2014 15:58:52 GMT
A guess would be it's been over tightened and possibly friction welded itself  |
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Post by Tim Goddard on Jul 29, 2014 17:52:42 GMT
I can see that the inner nut (with holes) is slghtly blued, from overheating sometime? Since you have the outer nut off you clearly know which way to turn it. What you need is something similar to the tool used for removing the collets from an angle grinder. With a welder you could make up something similar. Probably quicker than waiting for the part from Greens etc. And no, it should not be remotely tight. It's blue from using heat to remove it. I tried a pin spanner, which is similar too a grinder tool. That broke. Like John suggested, I'm thinking it might have welded itself to the bearing. |
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Post by Tim Goddard on Jul 29, 2014 17:59:35 GMT
I can see that the inner nut (with holes) is slghtly blued, from overheating sometime? Since you have the outer nut off you clearly know which way to turn it. What you need is something similar to the tool used for removing the collets from an angle grinder. With a welder you could make up something similar. Probably quicker than waiting for the part from Greens etc. And no, it should not be remotely tight. Tim, I can only see the one image on Photobucket. Is that right? Did you remove the key washer and the peg BEFORE you took that image? Is it possible that whoever assembled the hub last, put the key washer on first and then pushed the peg through the inner nut after tightening thus locking the inner nut in place. Is there any sign of the peg in any of the four holes as it may be there and rusted. I know this is a bit of a long shot but something must be seriously wrong to lock the inner nut solid and which won't budge even with a punch.It's only more or less hand tightened as it sets the end float. Just the one pic. Peg and key washer were removed. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2014 19:44:34 GMT
I can see that the inner nut (with holes) is slghtly blued, from overheating sometime? Since you have the outer nut off you clearly know which way to turn it. What you need is something similar to the tool used for removing the collets from an angle grinder. With a welder you could make up something similar. Probably quicker than waiting for the part from Greens etc. And no, it should not be remotely tight. It's blue from using heat to remove it. I tried a pin spanner, which is similar too a grinder tool. That broke. Like John suggested, I'm thinking it might have welded itself to the bearing. John's more knowledgeable than me on these things but I'm struggling to imagine the circumstances which could have led to friction welding on a nut which is barely hand tight! Is/was the bearing noisy and rough? |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 29, 2014 20:15:55 GMT
It's blue from using heat to remove it. I tried a pin spanner, which is similar too a grinder tool. That broke. Like John suggested, I'm thinking it might have welded itself to the bearing. John's more knowledgeable than me on these things but I'm struggling to imagine the circumstances which could have led to friction welding on a nut which is barely hand tight! Is/was the bearing noisy and rough? I am not saying 100% that is the fault Richard but Key washer which should be adjusted for the correct end float should not get stuck If the Key washer is over tightened and the bearing heats up and dries out anything can happen? it's a theory |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2014 21:19:11 GMT
John's more knowledgeable than me on these things but I'm struggling to imagine the circumstances which could have led to friction welding on a nut which is barely hand tight! Is/was the bearing noisy and rough? I am not saying 100% that is the fault Richard but Key washer which should be adjusted for the correct end float should not get stuck If the Key washer is over tightened and the bearing heats up and dries out anything can happen? it's a theory Just for clarity John, it's the inner nut that's seized, the key washer has been removed. |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 30, 2014 5:21:03 GMT
I am not saying 100% that is the fault Richard but Key washer which should be adjusted for the correct end float should not get stuck If the Key washer is over tightened and the bearing heats up and dries out anything can happen? it's a theory Just for clarity John, it's the inner nut that's seized, the key washer has been removed. Yes I realised it was the Key washer Richard not the nut  I had a grey moment Richard yes it is the inner nut I was meaning! |
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Post by Tim Goddard on Jul 30, 2014 6:38:48 GMT
It's blue from using heat to remove it. I tried a pin spanner, which is similar too a grinder tool. That broke. Like John suggested, I'm thinking it might have welded itself to the bearing. John's more knowledgeable than me on these things but I'm struggling to imagine the circumstances which could have led to friction welding on a nut which is barely hand tight! Is/was the bearing noisy and rough? I have not driven the car as my friend drove it back when I bought it and now it's being restored. I will have another go at it this weekend. Thanks for all of your suggestions. |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 30, 2014 7:27:49 GMT
Just for clarity John, it's the inner nut that's seized, the key washer has been removed. Yes I realised it was the Key washer Richard not the nut ;)I had a grey moment Richard yes it is the inner nut I was meaning! Read more: roverp5.proboards.com/posts/recent#ixzz38xGwsvuUI know you meant the nut John. I was just clarifying what component for any new viewers of the thread. It will be interesting to get to the reason for the siezure as it's unusual. |
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Post by Tim Goddard on Aug 2, 2014 15:08:43 GMT
Success at last ! Used a nail punch to free it . Really was very tight . Just as well that I've got a new bearing . Thanks for all of your suggestions .
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2014 16:36:49 GMT
Success at last ! Used a nail punch to free it . Really was very tight . Just as well that I've got a new bearing . Thanks for all of your suggestions . Glad it moved under "persuasion"! |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2014 21:09:11 GMT
Success at last ! Used a nail punch to free it . Really was very tight . Just as well that I've got a new bearing . Thanks for all of your suggestions . Glad it moved under "persuasion"! Hope the rebuild is going ok. I'm about to start on my O/S shortly. Anyone know if there's a torque setting for tightening the outer nut? Nothing in the W/M. |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 20, 2014 6:19:35 GMT
Glad it moved under "persuasion"! Hope the rebuild is going ok. I'm about to start on my O/S shortly. Anyone know if there's a torque setting for tightening the outer nut? Nothing in the W/M. There is no Torque setting in the WS manual Richard it gives a mention of float tolerances! I will have a look later in the day for you I just tighten so all play is "just" removed and no more! Just read manual and the end float across the hub using a DTI is 0.004" to 0.006" or 0.1 to 0.15mm  |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2014 8:37:03 GMT
Hope the rebuild is going ok. I'm about to start on my O/S shortly. Anyone know if there's a torque setting for tightening the outer nut? Nothing in the W/M. There is no Torque setting in the WS manual Richard it gives a mention of float tolerances! I will have a look later in the day for you I just tighten so all play is "just" removed and no more! Just read manual and the end float across the hub using a DTI is 0.004" to 0.006" or 0.1 to 0.15mm Thanks John.It was some years ago(1995) I did the n/s hub and I made a set up for my dial indicator to set the end float and then tightening the outer nut and rechecking the float. I seem to remember just "tightening" the outer nut and, to this day, the wheel has never parted company with the spindle! I was just curious if there was an advised torgue but I've never seen it. |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 20, 2014 11:55:21 GMT
If there was a Torque setting I would think the Torque Wrench would be a great piece of kit and way out our price range to buy |
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I had a grey moment Richard 