win53
Rover Rookie
real rookie but willing to learn with help
Posts: 94
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Post by win53 on Sept 2, 2014 7:08:00 GMT
My P5b starts pretty lousey even thou i have fitted an electonic igition from JRW. I was wondering therefore if anybody has had the same problem and can give me some advise. I have purchased a new set of Silicon HT Leads from JRW and these are waiting to be fitted. Is it possible that it could be anything else: Coil Plugs Your help would be appreciated
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Post by David on Sept 2, 2014 8:16:18 GMT
AED fitted? If so, convert to manual. I found this made a considerable difference to starting and mpg. Fuel pump OK? They can gradually fail. If so fit an electric one.
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Post by enigmas on Sept 2, 2014 8:58:46 GMT
It could be anything win53? You need to provide more detail/history about your car to gain a meaningful response to your question.
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win53
Rover Rookie
real rookie but willing to learn with help
Posts: 94
|
Post by win53 on Sept 2, 2014 10:25:58 GMT
Hi Guys Thanks Enigmas and Dave for your replies. There is no AED fitted as its a manual choke and have an electric Facet Fuel Pump fitted within the last year. The car runs as smooth as a nut once its started also the starting becomes good once the car has been on a run starts normally first time. It only seems to happen when i strt it up from cold having left the car a few days. Thats when it takes a few cranks of the engine to start it then it starts a bit lumpy and suddenly springs to life. I have been told that the carbs needs adjusting slightly as when i put it into reverse and going into garge slowly it cuts out so the revs are quite low when its just creeping backwards but touch wood other than that it starts very badly from cold. Any ideas chaps
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Sept 2, 2014 12:54:51 GMT
You will likely find the carbs are the issue.
It could be an air leak but I'd check the carbs first.
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Post by enigmas on Sept 2, 2014 14:11:36 GMT
Try cleaning, filing and re-gapping the spark plugs. Nice sharp edges on the plug points encourage a healthy spark. Gap no more than .030"
Clean the posts inside the distributor cap lightly with a dremel (if you own one). After a while, a white power like coating forms on the posts. If the cap is old you may find that the posts inside have eroded (increasing the gaps between the rotor button and the posts). Similarly clean the end of the rotor button an also where the carbon terminal contacts it. It's best to replace both after a number of years and usage. It places a greater demand on the coil to jump all of the combined gaps.
You car may have a ballast resistor somewhere in the circuit to the coil. You need to ensure the correct voltage is going to the correct ohm coil, especially now that you've upgraded to electronic ignition. The instructions with the electronic ignition will specify both the coil type and the correct voltage to the coil.
Finally, you're not over choking the engine on initial start-up?
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Post by eisdielenbiker on Sept 2, 2014 14:31:59 GMT
My P5B also developped a lousy starting behavior over the last months. I thought the engine is becoming more and more worn, so what's up... But it occured that a precious adjusting/levelling of the jet-lifting between the two carbs cured it. The choke cable had settled and needed some oil too. Furthermore I adjusted the corresponding idle with the air filter off. Also the choke adaption should hence be synchronized. It is important for older engines. All that was done when the engine is not running. And it starts easy as ever with the priming of the chambers by my electric fuel pump. Little cause big effect I must admit. It pays off to spend half an hour fiddling with the manual choke system... Regards Mark
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Sept 2, 2014 19:38:45 GMT
Check other suggestions but lazy worn out fuel pump is the usual but poor compression will cause this. Convert to electric. Plenty on SEARCH
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Post by tomcgn on Sept 7, 2014 6:16:18 GMT
In my experience starting problems are due to some fault in the ignition in most cases. Mine has its moments as well and it often is some oxidation on the rotor arm. Make sure the ignition timing is correct, the contacts on the coil are clean, too As suggested already the contacts in the distributor cap can oxidise but also the point on top of the rotor arm where the carbon tip of the cap touches it as well as the tip of the rotor arm.
Hope this helps Tom
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win53
Rover Rookie
real rookie but willing to learn with help
Posts: 94
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Post by win53 on Sept 7, 2014 6:27:48 GMT
Thanks Guys
Have replaced HTleads and sorted carbs seems ok but the proof in the pudding will be when its left a couple of days. It has Electronic Ignition so should start ok will see. Thanks for all your help will try other things if still the same
Colin
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