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Post by Jens Munk on Sept 4, 2014 20:11:04 GMT
The speedo cable in my P5B has started to rattle. Kind of sounds like ticking valves, but the valves/lifter are perfect and it follows the speed and not the RPM. In addition, if I get hold of it under the dash when driving, the sound changes or goes temporarily away if I try to move it a little. Very irritating!
The cable is fairly new and when I got it, it looked kind of dry so I oiled with some special thin graphite containing cable oil. I wonder if it is better to use a heavier oil like transmission oil or even grease.
Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Jens.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Sept 4, 2014 20:34:22 GMT
Avoid any more oil or grease as it will find its way up to the speedo head without doubt and ruin it. The rattle is caused by bad routing and/or support somewhere along its lenghth
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Post by enigmas on Sept 4, 2014 22:09:06 GMT
Don't lubricate the cable with oil or grease as Phil advises. Use powdered graphite. You may now need to remove the cable and clean both the inner and outer as the oil grease combo can cause drag internally. Grease will eventually dry out and cause a multitude of problems.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2014 11:15:08 GMT
Where is the speedo cable normally routed/secured on a P5b. Mine seems to have nothing securing it between bulkhead hole and gearbox.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 8, 2014 11:40:26 GMT
Where is the speedo cable normally routed/secured on a P5b. Mine seems to have nothing securing it between bulkhead hole and gearbox. Apart from the Grommet Kev that's it  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 8, 2014 13:43:53 GMT
Thanks John,that does explain why my searches for broken brackets behind the engine etc all came to nothing. Mine does seem prone to making noises but like the OP they usually go away for a while if I move the cable.I cant get at it whilst driving though,Jens must have longer arms or be more agile than me!.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Sept 8, 2014 17:34:32 GMT
There is a shaped clip attached to a bellhouse bolt, just to the left of the compensator bracket, but I cant remember if it was to secure the kick down cable, or the speedo cable, I think it was the speedo as there was a rubber protector with it.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 8, 2014 17:47:57 GMT
There is a shaped clip attached to a bellhouse bolt, just to the left of the compensator bracket, but I cant remember if it was to secure the kick down cable, or the speedo cable, I think it was the speedo as there was a rubber protector with it. I have never had one Andy and it's not shown in the parts book but that's not to say it was never there at sometime during the P5b evolution  There is a bracket for the downshift cable. |
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Post by Jens Munk on Sept 8, 2014 18:15:49 GMT
Thanks for all your info. I must get it cleaned up and also have another look at the routing. I believe it is OK between the transmission and bulkhead, and even if it isn't, I doubt I would be able to hear it. It was rather tricky to get from the bulkhead to the speedometer and it is also here it helps messing with it.
The speedometer needs calibration anyway and it is my intention to get this done during the winter, so I will do the cable then as well.
Jens.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Sept 8, 2014 20:07:39 GMT
I found a picture of said bracket, the one I was referring too is indeed for the kickdown cable John, but there was another one seen in the picture, this is how I found it when I took it all apart, I have lost the before picture, but I do know the cable had a proper rubber fitment where the cable fitted to the bracket.  |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 8, 2014 20:40:15 GMT
Fair comment Andy I think it's a case of you may have one? or not? I had another look at the parts book it's not shown I haven't had a problem with my cable as it is so if it ain't broke don't fix it |
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Sept 8, 2014 20:48:54 GMT
I thought it rang a bell, as I have seen a few of them fitted, this one is from an early PRND2D1L box, which was pretty unmolested, and it still bears the rubber grommet, but it is fitted to the compensator bracket bolt rather than the bellhouse bolt.  And this one from a later box.( Minus the grommet )  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2014 11:07:24 GMT
It does seem rather a lot of cable to have totally unsupported,maybe there was never an 'official' bracket but people fitted them over the years or there was a bracket fitted at some point but some of these have got got lost or moved over the years.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Sept 9, 2014 17:43:01 GMT
Rover fitted them if the assembly line operator bothered about it!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2014 9:27:51 GMT
I think you're right Phil. I took the cover off the gearbox and found this,apart from the cable being at a rather odd angle there is a clip that has obviously slid down it,the plastic insert has melted so its presumably had an encounter with the exhaust at some time. Try as I might I can't find a missing nut or bolt so I've clamped it to the box as per an earlier pic and straightened the run of the cable. I doubt it will make a happworth of difference but it keeps me out of mischief for an hour or so.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2014 9:55:01 GMT
I think you're right Phil. I took the cover off the gearbox and found this,apart from the cable being at a rather odd angle there is a clip that has obviously slid down it,the plastic insert has melted so its presumably had an encounter with the exhaust at some time. Try as I might I can't find a missing nut or bolt so I've clamped it to the box as per an earlier pic and straightened the run of the cable. I doubt it will make a happworth of difference but it keeps me out of mischief for an hour or so.
Kev, as a matter of interest, can the inhibitor switch and the gearbox selector rods be accessed once the cover is removed? The reason I ask is that, despite a tried & tested replacement switch a few months back, my car will still not start in "P" so it's likely to be a problem with the selector adjustment. I found the switch very difficult to deal with from under the car and I have not got particularly big hands! |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 10, 2014 11:55:36 GMT
The more graceful the curves the better |
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Post by harvey on Sept 10, 2014 14:01:24 GMT
as a matter of interest, can the inhibitor switch and the gearbox selector rods be accessed once the cover is removed? The reason I ask is that, despite a tried & tested replacement switch a few months back, my car will still not start in "P" so it's likely to be a problem with the selector adjustment. I found the switch very difficult to deal with from under the car and I have not got particularly big hands! You can set the inhibitor switch with the tunnel cover removed, but you can't set the selector rods. |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2014 14:16:33 GMT
I found on my car that the cover is a two piece affair with a seperate bolted down hatch on top.With the complete cover removed as Harvey says access to the switch is quite good.
I've just come back from a short test run and can report a quite speedo cable and a steady needle,I was only able to get up to 30mph but hopefully it will be OK faster. For some reason the rev counter seems steadier too, the two instruments used to wave at each other enthusiastically at low speeds,now both are more stable.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 11, 2014 8:19:04 GMT
I rebuilt the carbs on the rover and spent hours fiddling and fettling to get the tickover smooth. It's never really been as slow or steady as I'd like but after loads of work (and relying more on an old fashioned vacuum gauge than a load of electronic equipment) I got it just about right.
All full of the joys of spring (in autumn) I took the old thing out for a test,lovely gearchanges up and down,stop at the end of the road and it's almost silent. Turned on to the main road and the speedo cable is rattling away again like a bicycle with a lollypop stick in the spokes.
What a tinkerbell.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Oct 12, 2014 9:46:29 GMT
" quote resurgam "
"Kev, as a matter of interest, can the inhibitor switch and the gearbox selector rods be accessed once the cover is removed? The reason I ask is that, despite a tried & tested replacement switch a few months back, my car will still not start in "P" so it's likely to be a problem with the selector adjustment. I found the switch very difficult to deal with from under the car and I have not got particularly big hands!"
With the tunnel removed it is far easier to remove the selector rods, check the swivels over, check the rods themselves to ensure they are straight, and measure each rod for the correct length.
( just ensure the lengths you have are correct, as some of the information in the WM is incorrect.). The swivel joints often corrode and seize, and the rods get bent rather than be adjusted properly.
Would also be worthwhile checking the spherical bush for wear, or signs of it breaking up.
And whilst you are at it, the compensator block can be checked over for signs of wear.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 30, 2014 10:40:56 GMT
The cables seem prone to being noisy on the V8 although the six cylinder versions seem pretty much immune. I think the routing is tighter on the V8 versions,certainly moving mine caused the noise to go away for a while,greasing the cable and renewing grommets etc made no real difference although the noise comes and goes depending on temperature.
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