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Post by achandler on Jan 6, 2015 6:35:44 GMT
I have the correct Lumenition kit to fit in my 1972 P5B Saloon. Unfortunately I cannot work out which fuse to connect the power supply lead to, to provide a current that is not cut out when the engine is being cranked over on the starter motor.
Any suggestions?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jan 6, 2015 6:42:00 GMT
Hi there I have just done the same to my 69 saloon. Connect to the second fuse down the ignition fuse but connect to the left hand side of the fuse box ( this will be the side near the voltage regulator) the other side goes dead on cranking hope this helps
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Post by achandler on Jan 6, 2015 6:52:17 GMT
Hi Paul,
Very many thanks.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jan 6, 2015 12:43:35 GMT
Hi there I have just done the same to my 69 saloon. Connect to the second fuse down the ignition fuse but connect to the left hand side of the fuse box ( this will be the side near the voltage regulator) the other side goes dead on cranking hope this helps Mine's connected to the second fuse down on the RIGHT HAND side as you look at the car from the front or in otherwords next to the rear heater tap. It's been there for a very very long time!! It's the red one. View AttachmentThat is the correct place milestone ok on the other side if a separate fuse is used, this is where I pick up my pump supply  I don't know why Pauls supply dies on cranking? |
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Post by Simon H on Jan 6, 2015 20:35:31 GMT
That one dies on cranking on mine as well... the car was originally fitted with the anti-theft coil and armoured wire. Could it be something to do with that? I have tapped into the feed to the coil for a supply that stays on when cranking.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 6, 2015 22:28:53 GMT
Yes - Thief proof coil wiring is different as is the early ballasted system which has the solenoid shunt terminal on the starter motor
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Post by barryr on Jan 6, 2015 22:37:51 GMT
I'm same too for pump pick up. 2 nd down on right. Dying on cranking doesn't make sense one side. Surely it would die both sides?
Also if I understood right, thief proof coils weren't ballasted either is that true?
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Post by achandler on Jan 7, 2015 0:15:29 GMT
Well, I have discovered (using a test lamp) that my car (being fitted with the supposedly thief proof coil) is one where all the fuses, except the battery control (top one) cut out on cranking. It looks as though I shall have to go down the coil feed route and connect to the + terminal on the coil.
Anything I should look out for?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 7, 2015 19:16:36 GMT
Its considered safer to take a unfused ignition on supply permanent when starter operated - I rewired mine (a theif proof set-up) with panel switch as in earlier cars to ensure this Was dead easy 13 years ago but cannot be certain of detail but still working 100% TP coils were not ballasted but the wiring was a Heath Robinson set up that is not satisfactory as ALL ignition on accessories EXCEPT the YELLOW armored coil feed pick up, was taken from the purple ACC wire NOT the white wire used on console panel set up - this is why in the ignition off accessory key position the gauges etc also come which do not do so on non TP coil models. A typical example of a cheap BL bodge up like most P5B's were inflicted with built in 1970 on,as production of the new P10 was then imminent albeit delayed and then scrapped because the new Jag XJ6 was just out but inferior Some perceived the new Jag then had the right image over the P5B and its advanced superior and more expensive Rover replacement. Bean counters (  )ruled then - traditionalists and forward looking persons had no chance(puke) |
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Post by Simon H on Jan 7, 2015 20:30:48 GMT
At risk of going off topic, is there a relatively easy mod to put the TP wiring back to a conventional set up? I don't even know what was thief proof about it apart from the insulated cap on the coil +ve side...
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 7, 2015 21:34:57 GMT
Dead easy but not for DIY auto-electrics. Your assumption is correct re TP coil too
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Post by Simon H on Jan 8, 2015 1:35:54 GMT
It can't be that bad. Tell me more... I'm not in the least bit scared of 1970's car electrics...
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 8, 2015 18:22:21 GMT
I did mine 12 years ago and I cannot remember the detail but you need the the late and early wiring diagrams and connections are all under the steering column so it is a matter or running new cable lengths to the panel switch
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I don't know why Pauls supply dies on cranking?
)ruled then - traditionalists and forward looking persons had no chance(puke)