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Post by cstorey on May 3, 2015 17:59:51 GMT
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tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
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Post by tonys on May 3, 2015 19:38:36 GMT
Welcome to the forum. That looks very nice,and in a colour that is well-suited to the coupe.
Even though you have jobs to do, it certainly looks as if you have an excellent starting point. Are coachlines on that list of 'jobs'?
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on May 3, 2015 21:26:38 GMT
Welcome to the forum Chris. Nice looking car, enjoy it, thanks for the pictures, can't wait to hear more about it.
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Post by cstorey on May 3, 2015 22:03:20 GMT
Are coachlines on that list of 'jobs'? Well, I would like them to be , but they are beyond my skill , so unless I can find someone to do them properly, I shall confine myself to fitting a set of Glenn's sill trims which I have already ordered Incidentally, can anyone tell me where the 10 volt instrument voltage regulator is supposed to be - not the least of the electrical problems is that neither oil pressure nor fuel gauges work properly and so far I cannot see the voltage reg !
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Post by enigmas on May 3, 2015 23:21:31 GMT
Enjoy your new toy and the projects you derive from it. It looks to be a lovely car and certainly a good platform to improve.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on May 4, 2015 7:22:34 GMT
Are coachlines on that list of 'jobs'? Well, I would like them to be , but they are beyond my skill , so unless I can find someone to do them properly, I shall confine myself to fitting a set of Glenn's sill trims which I have already ordered Incidentally, can anyone tell me where the 10 volt instrument voltage regulator is supposed to be - not the least of the electrical problems is that neither oil pressure nor fuel gauges work properly and so far I cannot see the voltage reg ! The regulator is located near the handbrake lever, up and under the rail, bit awkward to get too. You can upgrade the internals, or replace with modern equivalent, there are a few previous posts about it, I will see if I can link them here. roverp5.proboards.com/thread/7356/temp-gaugeroverp5.proboards.com/thread/5173/10-volt-regulators
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Post by cstorey on May 4, 2015 7:44:22 GMT
Andy : thank you for that ; I would never find it without your guidance
Chris
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Post by Colin McA on May 4, 2015 8:14:16 GMT
Coach lines are not as hard as you think.
You could buy stick on ones or but the trim masking tape like i did and paint them. It is good stuff run it along using the stainless as a guide then pull out the strip you want to paint and take the lot off before it dries right in.
Coachlines do add a touch to the P5, i was missing both coachlines and sill trims when i got my car, and lookong back at old pictures is where you can see the improvement.
They are probably a low priority, get the car out a put some miles on it you will find a growing list of niggles you want to sort l, even my car as a few I still need to attend to.
Colin AKA arthuy on classic rover forum
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 4, 2015 9:08:47 GMT
Welcome to the forum I think this once belonged to Jon Wadham? you have had a good selection of Classics (Cats)
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Post by cstorey on May 4, 2015 9:29:31 GMT
Indeed ; Jon Wadham has owned it twice, and I think it figures as the model for his boot trim in the current catalogue on the website . It is a shame he never got round to using it, but I hope to rectify that . And yes, I have too many cars - 8 in all - and you can only play with 1 toy at a time, hence too much neglect of most of them
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Post by Chuck Berry on Jun 11, 2015 8:19:28 GMT
Well done that man, we are all looking forward to seeing the car. If your in our area call in!
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Post by cstorey on Jun 17, 2015 13:08:45 GMT
I have now given this car its first proper test : yesterday I did, on my own, 452 miles in it, and found it one of the most comfortable and easy cars to drive which I have experienced . It is a sensational long distance tourer - maybe it is the fact that it runs straight as an arrow which makes it so untiring . It reminds me quite strongly of the best car I ever owned which was a Benz 500SEC on which I did over 300,000 miles in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Still more work to do, however, with various electrical gremlins such as fuel gauge over-reading even though the voltage stabiliser seems ok, and a tacho which is switched on and off by the instrument light switch - I kid you not !
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haikuhead
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 167
Location: London
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Post by haikuhead on Jun 17, 2015 18:03:07 GMT
I have now given this car its first proper test : yesterday I did, on my own, 452 miles in it, and found it one of the most comfortable and easy cars to drive which I have experienced . It is a sensational long distance tourer - Totally agree. The P5B is a wonderful tourer and though I prefer to keep in the slow lane at a conservative 60-70mph whilst on motorways I do find it a very comfy cruiser for those long inter-city drives. I enjoy it even more on countryside B roads!
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Post by lagain on Jun 17, 2015 20:54:06 GMT
The roof is a lovely colour !!
When I had problems with my screens leaking I used black silicone bathroom sealent. I think that I used 5 tubes and it has not leaked since !
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Post by cstorey on Jun 17, 2015 22:04:49 GMT
George : I used Arbomast Autograde on the windscreen and that has cured that leakage . The rear screen, however, is still leaking into the boot so I shall adopt the same tactic and see what happens . Off to Ireland in it on Saturday for an informal 5 day rally - 37 cars and 73 people
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jun 18, 2015 8:25:53 GMT
I had a constant leak into the boot from my coupe. It was actually from the stainless strip at the top of the roof.Using a clear sealer pushed under the trim with a wet finger cured it. The water got in at the top and ran all round the rear screen before coming out in the boot near the petrol filler tube. When tracing water leaks use water with a drop of detergent in it as it penetrates easier. There is a compound that used to be sold for sealing decks on boats called "Creeping crack Seal" and Comma made a similar product. I've also used 'Eureka fluid film' on cracks or weeping seams in the past.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jun 18, 2015 15:08:47 GMT
A leak in the boot is possibly? a rust hole under the screen seal in the bottom corners quite a common place when the seals have leaked and the water just sits there?
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Post by cstorey on Feb 23, 2016 19:33:17 GMT
Indeed, your diagnosis was 100% correct. I eventually bit the bullet, ordered a new seal from the chap in Australia via Dave Green (ouch - nearly a hundred quid !!) , took the screen out, welded in quite a lot of new metal, replaced everything with lots more Arbomast, and amazingly it now seems watertight. The most difficult bit of it was getting all the trims back on in reasonable order . Thanks for the advice
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Post by djm16 on Feb 23, 2016 22:26:02 GMT
The voltage regulator may be adjustable. The is a tiny trim screw set into one of the connection posts. Strange that the tacho should be supplied from the light switch, it is nowhere near the ignition switch. However a simple matter to transfer the wire.
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Post by tarnowl on Apr 29, 2017 8:34:59 GMT
Coach lines are not as hard as you think. You could buy stick on ones or but the trim masking tape like i did and paint them. It is good stuff run it along using the stainless as a guide then pull out the strip you want to paint and take the lot off before it dries right in. Coachlines do add a touch to the P5, i was missing both coachlines and sill trims when i got my car, and lookong back at old pictures is where you can see the improvement. They are probably a low priority, get the car out a put some miles on it you will find a growing list of niggles you want to sort l, even my car as a few I still need to attend to. Colin AKA arthuy on classic rover forum I noticed Colin's post regarding coach lines on P5B's, from 2015. Where can I buy this special coach line masking tape, presumably eBay and did he apply the line using a brush or spray. My P5B Coupé also is missing it's roof and body coach lines and I am searching for the best method of re-applying them. Tarnowl p.s. I have found a push/pull switch under the parcel shelf, forward of the pedals and directly beneath the steering column. I can find no reference to it anywhere. Does anyone know what it might be? It is not an immobiliser.
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Post by tarnowl on Apr 29, 2017 8:40:02 GMT
Entered in error!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 29, 2017 9:02:00 GMT
You don't need anything special very thin detailing tape then masking tape and newspaper same thing on the roof line just spray very lightly or use a brush,
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Post by Colin McA on Apr 29, 2017 14:52:46 GMT
www.frost.co.uk/pin-striping-tape-14m.htmlGo to a model shop buy a colour you want and some decent brushes. Apply tape, remove the bit you want to paint, paint and let it dry. I did remove the tape before the paint had fully dried. Very easy but decent brushes that dont lose bristles will make a big difference, work reasonable quickly and bin the brush when done. I painted straight on to the panel, didnt key the paint just made sure it was clean. Find the guide regarding position of the line and where it stops otherwise it will look wrong. Colin
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Post by tarnowl on Apr 29, 2017 15:02:51 GMT
Thanks Colin. Am I right in thinking that the correct width is about 8mm or is it 3/8"?
Regards,
Tarnowl.
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tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
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Post by tonys on Apr 29, 2017 15:33:58 GMT
Thanks Colin. Am I right in thinking that the correct width is about 8mm or is it 3/8"? Regards, Tarnowl. Presumably you mean width of the coachlines, if so, it isn't 8mm or 3/8 inch. I don't know the correct thickness, but Dicky's earlier post implies that it is 1/8 inch.
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