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Post by redherring on Aug 30, 2015 10:27:43 GMT
Hi all, I want to fit an electric fan engine side of the rad on my V8, but the water pump boss is far too deep. Is one available with little or no protrusion? I would obviously do away with the solid fan blades. Thanks.
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Post by p5bdownunder on Aug 30, 2015 11:33:35 GMT
Hi all, I want to fit an electric fan engine side of the rad on my V8, but the water pump boss is far too deep. Is one available with little or no protrusion? I would obviously do away with the solid fan blades. Thanks. Hi redherring, I've been told about an electric water pump that will fit onto a Rover V8, which takes up much lass space than the standard WP. But I've only been made aware of it and have not had any experience with them. They are a company in Australia but I expect they will have product available internationally. Have a look at the link below; daviescraig.com.au/i too am considering what options I can utilise to better cool the car and these include an electric water pump and an electric fan that will be fitted engine side of the radiator; one that will effectively 'suck' the air through from the front, but time has been a real issue of late. Let us know if you have any joy with this or other options Stu |
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Post by enigmas on Aug 30, 2015 13:05:35 GMT
Stu as good as it sounds that may not be the best option to improve cooling. Here's another solution. The original mechanical fan is not as efficient as it could be forvq number of reasons including:
1. It's spaced too far away from the radiator
2. It's not as efficient a design as it could be...and more importantly,
3. There's no shroud fitted to the system.
Consider:
Buying a large flex fan. (These pull maximum air at idle and flatten out with increased rpm)
Fitting it within 10mm or 1/2" of the core
Fitting a properly constructed shroud. (This enables air to be pulled from the entire area of the radiator core)
This old style but effective technology was fitted to American muscle cars of the 60s and 70s and easily managed the temperatures in California.
Another reason for hot running (in climates like Perth) is at idle and stationary, hot air is restricted from exiting the engine bay (as there is no allowance for it to do so)
If air can't exit there can be no heat exchange.
So also remove the insulation blanket from under the bonnet!
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Post by Steve P5b on Aug 30, 2015 18:43:53 GMT
Hi all, I want to fit an electric fan engine side of the rad on my V8, but the water pump boss is far too deep. Is one available with little or no protrusion? I would obviously do away with the solid fan blades. Thanks.
I run a rover without the metal fan fitted, instead I have two 10 inch electric fans fitted at the top of the radiator to the front side of the rad. The cooling fans do not operate until the car has been stationary for a few minutes or is driven extremely hard. This works fine up to 30 degrease ambient temperature, as yet that is the hottest it's been in these parts. The reason for using two fans is for clearance issues with the "slam panel" support rods as one larger fan is too bulky, however two small fans don't equate to the cooling capability of one larger one, but maybe worth a try as they are cheap.
if you stop this u tube link at 17 seconds you can just about see them through the grill . www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqPMuJ=youtu.be
Good luck with which ever way you go.
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Post by lagain on Aug 30, 2015 19:45:35 GMT
I have a Kenlowe fan on mine, fitted behind the radiator and very close to it. It does struggle a bit to bring the temperature down in traffic although it is quite old. When the car is moving it never needs the fan.
The problem in the summer is that the fan is drawing in warm air to try to cool the radiator, so it will always be a problem and that is why modern cars have such powerful cooling fans.
Do not have more than 40% antifreeze as it is thicker than water and so does not go around the system as quickly
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Post by enigmas on Aug 31, 2015 1:10:42 GMT
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Post by gingerbeer62 on Aug 31, 2015 1:13:54 GMT
I have a Kenlowe fan on mine, fitted behind the radiator and very close to it. It does struggle a bit to bring the temperature down in traffic although it is quite old. When the car is moving it never needs the fan. The problem in the summer is that the fan is drawing in warm air to try to cool the radiator, so it will always be a problem and that is why modern cars have such powerful cooling fans. Do not have more than 40% antifreeze as it is thicker than water and so does not go around the system as quickly I fitted an electric fan to my Rover as well. 16" but put it on the front as a push. I think that fans work more efficiently pushing air anyway, but the room at the back was just too tight. After all, that is the way your radiator works with air pushing through it. Pulling air, I think is felt to be the norm only because traditionally the radiator fan is driven by the engine. Paranoia then set in and I was never sure what the temp was with the "highly accurate" Rover gauge. So I fitted a small digital gauge which reads very well. The probe is taped to the top hose with some black insulation foam over it and then bound with a nice thick black tape. You can hardly see it and the whole thing puts my mind at ease with regards to temp.  |
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Post by redherring on Aug 31, 2015 8:44:07 GMT
Thankyou all for your prompt answers. I have fitted a new 4.6 to my P5B, which is all well and good but it relentlessly overheats in traffic. I know the arguments for putting elec fan in front of rad, but feel the space on engine side looks far more useable. The kenlowe I have squeezed between rad & grille has been disappointing, I may end up putting a better quality fan in its place. Good luck to you all, no danger of any Australian-like temps here in rainy Norfolk today!
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Post by enigmas on Aug 31, 2015 12:08:03 GMT
This works in extreme temperatures and the engine is only 200cc less than yours (4.4 litre)
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2015 13:46:01 GMT
This works in extreme temperatures and the engine is only 200cc less than yours (4.4 litre) What's the take off speed? I'd be afraid to blip the throttle! |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 31, 2015 15:04:02 GMT
The cooling system if maintained correctly just about copes with the 3.5 I would assume the 4.6 would need extra cooling from the start?
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Aug 31, 2015 20:14:24 GMT
Wrapping the exhaust manifolds can also help with reducing heat build-up in the engine bay. I know its not exactly related to your question but every little helps and it certainly helped with my previous P5. I will be wrapping mine in due course..
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Post by Warwick on Sept 1, 2015 3:28:23 GMT
Wrapping the exhaust manifolds can also help with reducing heat build-up in the engine bay. I know its not exactly related to your question but every little helps and it certainly helped with my previous P5. I will be wrapping mine in due course.. So does ceramic coating of the inside of the manifolds. |
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Post by petervdvelde on Sept 1, 2015 9:51:10 GMT
the exhaust manifolds on my MGB V8 conversion are ceramic coated (also on the outside) and have no problems with overheating although the MGB V8 suffers more from overheating then a P5B. Its on there now for approx 10 years and it is a durable coating. I believe John Wallet got his exhaust manifolds ceramic coated so het could tell you more about a supplier and the price.
Peter
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Sept 1, 2015 12:12:11 GMT
Thankyou all for your prompt answers. I have fitted a new 4.6 to my P5B, which is all well and good but it relentlessly overheats in traffic. I know the arguments for putting elec fan in front of rad, but feel the space on engine side looks far more useable. The kenlowe I have squeezed between rad & grille has been disappointing, I may end up putting a better quality fan in its place. Good luck to you all, no danger of any Australian-like temps here in rainy Norfolk today! When you say a new 4.6, was it new new or new to the car? If it is second hand, could it be gummed up inside the water jacket? It might be worth filling the cooling system with a descaler and leaving it for a while before flushing? I think this one has been mentioned before on here: www.rydlymemarine.com/products/rydlymemarinedescaler/ |
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Post by redherring on Sept 1, 2015 13:38:34 GMT
It was a brand new engine- biggest mistake I've made for a long while! If I could find a properly reconditioned 3.5 engine would be seriously tempted to start again. Did buy an old engine to do up, but had common problem of never finding the time. I have got Percy into very good order, but am unable to enjoy him due to his phobia of queueing traffic!!Found all of your answers very informative, thankyou.
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Sept 1, 2015 14:57:32 GMT
It was a brand new engine- biggest mistake I've made for a long while! If I could find a properly reconditioned 3.5 engine would be seriously tempted to start again. Did buy an old engine to do up, but had common problem of never finding the time. I have got Percy into very good order, but am unable to enjoy him due to his phobia of queueing traffic!!Found all of your answers very informative, thankyou. In that case I also recommend this: www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorcycle/coolant/red-line-water-wetter-super-coolantIt is meant to chemically reduce the temperature the engine runs at. When I had my 67 mustang I used it and the reviews were very good at the time. This time of year you could run de ionised water (battery water) mixed with water wetter and then as winter approaches, drain it into a container and then replace with a weak antifreeze solution. Just a thought |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 1, 2015 16:41:45 GMT
It was a brand new engine- biggest mistake I've made for a long while! If I could find a properly reconditioned 3.5 engine would be seriously tempted to start again. Did buy an old engine to do up, but had common problem of never finding the time. I have got Percy into very good order, but am unable to enjoy him due to his phobia of queueing traffic!!Found all of your answers very informative, thankyou. Looking at your old posts you have been struggling with this for a few years I admire your perseverance and I hope you do find a solution  |
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Post by redherring on Sept 2, 2015 7:37:50 GMT
Yes John, you're quite correct I have been living with this for a few years. The ideal solution would be retirement, allowing me more leisure time,unfortunately the recession and the govt kindly raising state pension age have put my plans for world domination on hold!Water wetter is something I've looked at, not sure it would make enough difference in running temp. on idle though. I have received mixed reports, but thanks for your concern.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 2, 2015 8:00:37 GMT
the exhaust manifolds on my MGB V8 conversion are ceramic coated (also on the outside) and have no problems with overheating although the MGB V8 suffers more from overheating then a P5B. Its on there now for approx 10 years and it is a durable coating. I believe John Wallet got his exhaust manifolds ceramic coated so het could tell you more about a supplier and the price. Peter Yes I had mine done Peter I cant remember the company it was one of 3 that do the same process of Ceramic Coating using the Plasma Spray process, the cost from memory was around £400.  |
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Sept 2, 2015 11:26:58 GMT
Yes John, you're quite correct I have been living with this for a few years. The ideal solution would be retirement, allowing me more leisure time,unfortunately the recession and the govt kindly raising state pension age have put my plans for world domination on hold!Water wetter is something I've looked at, not sure it would make enough difference in running temp. on idle though. I have received mixed reports, but thanks for your concern. For the low relative cost of water wetter surely its worth a go? It certainly wouldn't do any harm in conjunction with other tricks to bring the temp down. I've read in the past that the 4.6 is prone to overheating due to running lean on standard injection. Could it be running lean? And the very last idea (I promise) would be to remove the thermostat completely (Or put in as low a temp one as you can find and drill additional small holes through the thermostat 'ring' so that there is always a small amount of flow through it). Again lots of small things in conjunction might sort out the issues for you. I have a 4.6 to build and put in my car. So if I run across the same issue I will be doing all of the above! Best of luck with it... Roy |
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Post by Warwick on Sept 2, 2015 11:58:36 GMT
Yes I had mine done Peter I cant remember the company it was one of 3 that do the same process of Ceramic Coating using the Plasma Spray process, ... I had mine done too John, and as you know, mine runs stone cold. |
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Post by redherring on Sept 2, 2015 13:51:19 GMT
Already removed thermostat, engine runs cool whilst driving but rapidly approaches red in traffic. All new hoses, gaskets, blah, blah. Even had a special high flow rad made- not a jot of difference! You're probably right, water wetter worth a go but several thousand pounds down the road am reluctant to try anything else without some promise of success!Good to talk, though, as Bob Hoskins once said!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 2, 2015 15:39:44 GMT
Yes I had mine done Peter I cant remember the company it was one of 3 that do the same process of Ceramic Coating using the Plasma Spray process, ... I had mine done too John, and as you know, mine runs stone cold.  |
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Post by guidedog on Sept 2, 2015 17:13:55 GMT
Hi Redherring, I have a couple of questions for you.
1 Have you always has this problem with the new block.
2 I take it the weather temperature is normal for UK climate it still overheats.
3 After a run does the car still overheat on your drive in normal tick over.
If it's yes to all the above I may have an answer.
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