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Post by daveh on Nov 8, 2015 20:33:01 GMT
hi all, i need a bit of help if anyone could help i would be very grateful first which auto box is fitted to a 1962 mk1a p5 saloon i am very new to this car and want to get parts for a mate to give the car a full service,also this car has a paper element in the air cleaner, but all that's on it is fram does anyone now the filter number i need and which oil filter do i need,
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 8, 2015 20:42:25 GMT
Borg Warner DG - as fitted to Jags & Humbers
Land Rover filter RTC 3183 (for the 6 cyl) or Fram CH853pl Unipart GFE 111
Plenty on search with the autobox - watch level checking
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Post by daveh on Nov 8, 2015 20:49:20 GMT
many thanks i am very new to the rover hence these basic questions.
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Post by djm16 on Nov 8, 2015 21:47:42 GMT
Welcome to the select group of 3-litre owners. Have we seen pictures of your car yet? Looking forwards to it.
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Post by daveh on Nov 8, 2015 22:20:54 GMT
Welcome to the select group of 3-litre owners. Have we seen pictures of your car yet? Looking forwards to it. i have only had the car about four weeks and i want to do a few of the jobs i can i dont have any pictures yet but i got a link to the pictures from the dealer i bought it from he sent me these before i viewed the car picasaweb.google.com/116724256296753924244/ROVER3LITRE3#6188716817585775474
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tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
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Post by tonys on Nov 8, 2015 22:44:49 GMT
You obviously went ahead with your earlier deliberations That's a really good looking 3-litre you have there, congratulations.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 8, 2015 22:45:50 GMT
Looks very smart and as it should early P5's are now rare
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Post by daveh on Nov 8, 2015 23:26:10 GMT
it has a few faults but i had it checked and is structurally very sound and it drives beautifully. i did have to replace the front screen seal it was perished and i don't need water getting in, but i cant take credit for that i found a man locally who works on classic cars who got me to help and it does help for the future when you know how to attack these job's, it needs the exhaust manifold changing it has a crack across the center of it, to be honest the cars previous owner had spent a lot of money on this car, but i still have jobs i want doing on this car, i have a comprehensive history with the car,
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 9, 2015 18:43:19 GMT
It is very common for the manifold to crack and its because of 1 or both of these: 1. The manifold clamps have been fitted back to front - the raised circular area is a rest for the new 3/8" spring washer 2. The said clamps have been over-tightened to stop leaks because of 1) and the manifold faces have distorted. They need to be refaced on a giant planer. It can be done twice before the manifold is scrap Look after your mechanic - the P5 saloon front screen seal is the most difficult job ever and few succeed in fitting it neatly and without damaging the SS trims Use and enjoy but read the 3 Litre threads - the P5 but not the P5B is second to Rolls Royce Silver Cloud in build quality - neither have been surpassed in volume production
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Post by daveh on Nov 9, 2015 20:14:51 GMT
after seeing how to change the seal i'm glad i didn't try to do it myself the man who did it has is own auto glazing services, and he asked if i wanted to help and see how to do this job, i was amazed at the time it took and the amount of sealant he used. he said i did the right thing getting a set of new clips as well as the rubber seal. if we have members in the north west general area, Manchester/Liverpool/Chester/crew etc: who need this service if i'm allowed i will post his contact details, then if needed members can contact him.
as for the manifold i have a new unused one and the car came with a stainless steel exhaust except for the front down pipe that was left in mild steel, because the nuts that connected the flange to the manifold were rounded and i guess difficult to remove plus even though it's not blowing a crack across the center of the manifold just above the down pipe
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Post by daveh on Nov 9, 2015 21:07:57 GMT
after seeing how to change the seal i'm glad i didn't try to do it myself the man who did it has is own auto glazing services, and he asked if i wanted to help and see how to do this job, i was amazed at the time it took and the amount of sealant he used. he said i did the right thing getting a set of new clips as well as the rubber seal. if we have members in the north west general area, Manchester/Liverpool/Chester/crew etc: who need this service if i'm allowed i will post his contact details, then if needed members can contact him. as for the manifold i have a new unused one and the car came with a stainless steel exhaust except for the front down pipe that was left in mild steel, because the nuts that connected the flange to the manifold were rounded and i guess difficult to remove plus even though it's not blowing a crack across the center of the manifold just above the down pipe Dave, pics too small to see properly! yes i know i tried to resize them as it says 1mb allowed and thats how they turned out after my efforts i will try again. Attachments:
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Post by djm16 on Nov 9, 2015 22:34:38 GMT
Regarding the cracked manifold, I add a couple of other traps - Running the engine a bit weak. Areas of the manifold that have been persistently overheated will show a degree of crystalline transformation. If the sliding support bracket stabilising the down pipe at the bottom of the engine is overtightened, this will place substantial force on the manifold with every heat / cool cycle.
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Post by daveh on Nov 10, 2015 17:47:13 GMT
many thanks for all the tips and info, i have a new manifold and a stainless down pipe ready to fit, have new gaskets and a set of new nuts as you see from above the pictures of screen seal change here are pic's before and after just to show how perished the seal was and after the screen was cleaned up a bit
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 10, 2015 18:25:03 GMT
Neat job - do not overtighten the nuts - 1/4 Turn max and Coppaslip the studs . Warm up and check but DO NOT tighten when manifold is warm - leave overnight and then just nip them up
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Post by daveh on Nov 10, 2015 20:46:39 GMT
i don't know if he would travel to Plymouth he is based in the Manchester area but i can send you a message with his details if you want to email or phone him. i did ask if i could post his details for any members but i was thinking members or owners mainly in the north west area, as for the screen it's the original screen not a new one, the screens are still made if anyone cant find a reclaimed screen this the link for new screens for most makes of classic car. www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/automotive/classic-glass-for-classic-carsthere were no problems on the scuttle it is rock solid like 99% of the body work the only filler is under the front bumper and the bottom of the offside read door, they are on my list after i have replaced the exhaust problems. i'm retired i spent all my working life with the ministry of transport so i had vehicle examiner to rip in to it and give it a severe examination above mot standard and find all problems, and he found everything luckily most are minor faults. and well with in my capability to get them fixed, i'm amazed how good the cars structure is but it's all down to the previous owner from the paper work he spent a fortune on this car
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Post by Dr Bob on Nov 10, 2015 23:28:31 GMT
many thanks for all the tips and info, i have a new manifold and a stainless down pipe ready to fit, have new gaskets and a set of new nuts as you see from above the pictures of screen seal change here are pic's before and after just to show how perished the seal was and after the screen was cleaned up a bit Nice pics and a very nice job on the screen. You were also lucky not to find any problems in the scuttle. I could do with a new seal. Does he travel to Plymouth?! Where did you get the new windscreen? Stupid question alert: with the older style gearbox indicator, D2 is equaling to Drive/D? With D1 and L equivalent to 2 & 1?
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Post by daveh on Nov 11, 2015 11:55:40 GMT
i don't know if he would travel to Plymouth he is based in the Manchester area but i can send you a message with his details if you want to email or phone him. i did ask if i could post his details for any members but i was thinking members or owners mainly in the north west area, as for the screen it's the original screen not a new one, the screens are still made if anyone cant find a reclaimed screen this the link for new screens for most makes of classic car. www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/automotive/classic-glass-for-classic-carsthere were no problems on the scuttle it is rock solid like 99% of the body work the only filler is under the front bumper and the bottom of the offside read door, they are on my list after i have replaced the exhaust problems. i'm retired i spent all my working life with the ministry of transport so i had vehicle examiner to rip in to it and give it a severe examination above mot standard and find all problems, and he found everything luckily most are minor faults. and well with in my capability to get them fixed, i'm amazed how good the cars structure is but it's all down to the previous owner from the paper work he spent a fortune on this car Thanks. I would appreciate a message so that I can keep the details on file. Once again, that is a very fine car! I do like that colour combination. Is this the car a few years ago? Although the screen rubber on this car looks very good. www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYiKH8Qqy5ci have sent you a message with the windscreen fitters details etc: as for the car it is rush green over shadow green the pictures iv'e post and current the car in the back ground is my daily runner. there are a few traffic nicks and chips on the bonnet and once i get a rear door panel welded in and it gets painted i will have all the rest sorted out at the same time
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Post by harvey on Nov 11, 2015 15:46:51 GMT
with the older style gearbox indicator, D2 is equaling to Drive/D? With D1 and L equivalent to 2 & 1? D2 is SECOND gear start, so you pull away in SECOND and change into TOP and back down, but you don't get FIRST at all. D1 is fully auto, 1-2-3 3-2-1. L is lockup, so if you start in that the box remains in FIRST. If you select "L" while the box is in FIRST gear it locks it there, if you select it while the box is in SECOND it locks it there.
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tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
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Post by tonys on Nov 11, 2015 16:34:37 GMT
i don't know if he would travel to Plymouth he is based in the Manchester area but i can send you a message with his details if you want to email or phone him. i did ask if i could post his details for any members but i was thinking members or owners mainly in the north west area, as for the screen it's the original screen not a new one, the screens are still made if anyone cant find a reclaimed screen this the link for new screens for most makes of classic car. www.pilkington.com/en-gb/uk/automotive/classic-glass-for-classic-carsthere were no problems on the scuttle it is rock solid like 99% of the body work the only filler is under the front bumper and the bottom of the offside read door, they are on my list after i have replaced the exhaust problems. i'm retired i spent all my working life with the ministry of transport so i had vehicle examiner to rip in to it and give it a severe examination above mot standard and find all problems, and he found everything luckily most are minor faults. and well with in my capability to get them fixed, i'm amazed how good the cars structure is but it's all down to the previous owner from the paper work he spent a fortune on this car Thanks. I would appreciate a message so that I can keep the details on file. Once again, that is a very fine car! I do like that colour combination. Is this the car a few years ago? Although the screen rubber on this car looks very good. www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYiKH8Qqy5cResurgam I know your question wasn't directed at me, but if I've understood it correctly, it appears to be a different car. It's an earlier MK1 (note the 'wind deflectors' in one of the shots. And a different regn. no..). Quite a rare colour combination now I would have thought.
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Post by Dr Bob on Nov 11, 2015 17:13:20 GMT
with the older style gearbox indicator, D2 is equaling to Drive/D? With D1 and L equivalent to 2 & 1? D2 is SECOND gear start, so you pull away in SECOND and change into TOP and back down, but you don't get FIRST at all. D1 is fully auto, 1-2-3 3-2-1. L is lockup, so if you start in that the box remains in FIRST. If you select "L" while the box is in FIRST gear it locks it there, if you select it while the box is in SECOND it locks it there. thanks Harvey - good to know (and probably why i thought the box was on the way out)
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Post by daveh on Nov 12, 2015 16:39:05 GMT
with the older style gearbox indicator, D2 is equaling to Drive/D? With D1 and L equivalent to 2 & 1? D2 is SECOND gear start, so you pull away in SECOND and change into TOP and back down, but you don't get FIRST at all. D1 is fully auto, 1-2-3 3-2-1. L is lockup, so if you start in that the box remains in FIRST. If you select "L" while the box is in FIRST gear it locks it there, if you select it while the box is in SECOND it locks it ton my gear selectorhere. i dont have D2 or D1 on my gear selector mine is P N D L R
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Post by harvey on Nov 12, 2015 18:31:58 GMT
i dont have D2 or D1 on my gear selector mine is P N D L R That's a DG box selector pattern.
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Post by daveh on Nov 12, 2015 18:33:18 GMT
Borg Warner DG - as fitted to Jags & Humbers Land Rover filter RTC 3183 (for the 6 cyl) or Fram CH853pl Unipart GFE 111 Plenty on search with the autobox - watch level checking here i go again more basic questions believe it or not , i cant buy oil or air filters in Warrington Cheshire i think i have visited most of the local motor factors also can anyone post where to get these filter plus points distributor cap plug leads etc: also what is the best transmission fluid, engine oil etc: i want to give the car a service as it's a unknown quantity as to when it was last serviced, i have joined the p5 club but i don't have a password to ask there. how do i get a password
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 12, 2015 18:34:58 GMT
May have the wrong Selector cover or valve body but not likely
If it has the correct box then its does have the old Yank style selector later deemed dangerous by all and blacklisted
Service parts are readily available - Wadhams even does a kit. Wearings is also a LR dealer
As I said loads on Search non Dexron Ford spec ATF essential - any motor factors Comma AQF
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Post by daveh on Nov 13, 2015 14:38:39 GMT
May have the wrong Selector cover or valve body but not likely If it has the correct box then its does have the old Yank style selector later deemed dangerous by all and blacklisted Service parts are readily available - Wadhams even does a kit. Wearings is also a LR dealer As I said loads on Search non Dexron Ford spec ATF essential - any motor factors Comma AQF first many thanks for the info on where to get the parts for engine and gearbox servicing. but your comment on the selector sounds very ominous about the danger of it. it what way was this selector deemed dangerous, and would you recommend changing it? if yes can you say which selector to change to and does the linkage also need changing? my car has the gear selector under the steering wheel. and to a untrained driver appears to work flawlessly,but i don't want to have any parts that can not only cause problems but be dangerous.
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