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Post by stantondavies on Feb 2, 2016 22:44:25 GMT
When removing the oil cooler from my MKIII, one of the connections sheared off and the steel pipe on the other is wasted. I had thought that I needed to solder new pipes on, but close inspection suggests that the connectors are integrated units soldered onto the finned copper tube. Can anyone who has repaired their oil cooler offer any advice?
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Post by enigmas on Feb 3, 2016 9:07:10 GMT
Stanton it looks as though you attempted to remove it using one spanner only and sheared off the connection. As it's copper(perhaps brass?) it can be repaired by silver soldering a fresh piece of tube to the 'sheared' off section but you will now have to remove it from the car so the repair can be properly done.
PS. Look for a competent plumber...as they'll have the relevant equipment and skills. (I use the same cooler on my MK3 hybrid)
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Post by stantondavies on Feb 3, 2016 12:39:20 GMT
A few questions to answer here:
Starting at the beginning, I wanted to replace the exhaust valves so followed the instructions in the workshop manual to start with, until I challenged whether all this work was necessary. It wasn't. We don't follow the satnav slavishly, and it seems the same applies to workshop manuals.
I did use two spanners on the union, but the steel pipe was so tender that it split. A word of advice for MkIII owners, check yours and apply some protection.
Now it gets interesting. With the pipe sheered off it is now possible to see inside. And it goes into the brass union only a fraction of an inch before it is end capped, with tiny slits around the circumference of the pipe to allow the oil through.
I have found illustrations in an old catalogue showing the complete units for sale. When I've desoldered the brass union off the cooler I might have a clearer idea of what's going on.
I attach a photograph of the top fixing point, the bracket is at the back of the cooler and is attached by nut and bolt through the hole by the bonnet catch.
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Post by stantondavies on Feb 3, 2016 13:28:21 GMT
Sorry, pics self-destructed when editing! Working with my phone on site. Tip for others, you need to go into Desktop mode to attach photos.
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Post by stantondavies on Feb 3, 2016 14:03:03 GMT
Comes out fine, one bolt at top and two at the bottom fitting the brackets - see photo.
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Post by stantondavies on Feb 3, 2016 14:05:08 GMT
Comes out fine, one bolt at top and two at the bottom fitting the brackets - see photo.
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Post by stantondavies on Feb 3, 2016 14:11:32 GMT
Have sweated the brass union off the copper tube. It is now clear to see what is going on.
Mulling over whether to try tapping a new connections on the brass union. Any comments?
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Post by stantondavies on Feb 3, 2016 15:37:30 GMT
You could do. The grille has to come out and the bonnet lock platform has to come off.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 3, 2016 20:43:44 GMT
Stanton did you use a large plumbers soldering iron or a an LPG torch or similar device to remove the cap?
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Post by stantondavies on Feb 3, 2016 22:17:22 GMT
I used a hot air gun combined with a 65w soldering iron.
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