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Post by p5bambassador on Apr 4, 2016 10:11:34 GMT
Due to a little leak in the isolation of a cable coming from the fuse box into the dashboard and connecting the clock, I had a massive short circuit that melted the isolation of those cables connecting the clock to the fuse box away. Evil smelling smoke got out of the dashboard. Luckily I could stop the car immediately. As the fuse (1-2) was almost glowing and I did not manage to pull it out (25A, why didn't it blow?), I just had the option to pull out the clock;-))! The whole spectacle took me some 3 minutes, until I could stop that spooky situation. I almost panicked and imagined her going into flames;-((. Later on I realized, that the dashboard ist isolated with straw mats!
Well, I will have renewed that whole cable coming from the fuse box to the clock. I will not insert a new fuse until then. This fuse controls the clock, the interior lighting, the cigar lighters and: the battery control! Do you think I can drive to the garage without battery control? Is there anything that could happen or be damaged?
As you might imagine, I am rather worried and careful after this experience...
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Post by enigmas on Apr 4, 2016 11:03:33 GMT
Deep six or disconnect the cigar/cigarette lighter and use a 10amp fuse. A 25amp fuse is a heavy weight fuse in a circuit and it's probably only there due to the draw of the cigar lighter. Whatever was burning/melting (in your clock) had a lower value than the fuse in that circuit.
I'd also check and clean all the connections/terminals as high resistance in any connections causes them to heat up with the eventual expected consequences.
As an aside, unless the clip terminals for the fuses are clean and bright there'll be resistance across them.
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Post by djm16 on Apr 4, 2016 11:18:51 GMT
you may have had a short from a damaged or missing grommet in the firewall, however Kienzle clocks can go short circuit inside when the solenoid armature is old and worn. For that reason, many have fitted 1-5A fuses in the clock power supply just behind the clock.
I have not tested it, but I doubt that the cigarette lighter draws anything like 25A (more like 5A). So 10A fuse in future.
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Post by djm16 on Apr 6, 2016 4:38:28 GMT
I should have added that if you examine the burned cable, it should tell you within 1 cm of where the short circuit is. It will be burned only between the short circuit and the current source, so should be fairly obvious.
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Post by p5bambassador on Apr 6, 2016 17:52:13 GMT
enigmas & djm16 Thank you very much for your helpful advice! As I exchanged the Kienzle clock already some weeks ago, I doubt that it caused the short... Why this only would happen now? As the solenoid armature got worn? My guess would be, that the isolation of one of the cables was rotten. As I touched and moved the clock, this damaged part might have touched the metal carrier of the dashboard at the first shake from the road... But your assessment concerning the fuses absolutely convinces me! The cables melted from the clock on until the plate between motor and dashboard - so I will have replaced it beween fuse-box and clock. Would be miracle, if the clock still works, wouldn't it? However I wonder, if I can drive a short distance without any fuse, as the battery control is connected to that fuse 1-2?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 6, 2016 19:31:15 GMT
yes but the horns, headlamp flasher and interior lights will not work
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Post by djm16 on Apr 7, 2016 3:06:51 GMT
There is a lot of cable behind the clock. If it is burned / melted up to the back of the clock then the clock has an internal short. Doesn't matter if it has only just been "repaired", the short will be in the clock. If it is not, then there is no reason the clock should not work. But do put in an extra fuse for it.
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