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Post by fortnum1977 on Apr 17, 2016 17:03:52 GMT
Hello, I'm having gearbox issues.
I have a p5b coupe '72 and the gearbox does have a leak where it joins the engine.
It starts to slip when it has leaked a bit and I top it up and it's ok.
But lately a quite loud ticking or ratcheting noise has started coming from it.
Also the selector button on top of the gear stick depressed and got stuck and it suddenly became difficult to change gears. It was very stiff. I managed to free it and it's ok now. Noise still there though.
I think i'll have to have the gasket replaced between gearbox and engine as first step.
Any thoughts very welcome.
Fortnum
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Post by harvey on Apr 17, 2016 17:25:47 GMT
Hello, I'm having gearbox issues. I have a p5b coupe '72 and the gearbox does have a leak where it joins the engine. I think i'll have to have the gasket replaced between gearbox and engine as first step. It's normally the front pump seal that leaks. The only gasket there is the front pump gasket and they're not prone to leaking, and to replace that the valve block has to be removed once the gearbox is out of the car. But lately a quite loud ticking or ratcheting noise has started coming from it. Is the noise there all the time the engine is running, or just in gear, or only when the car is driven? |
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Post by fortnum1977 on Apr 17, 2016 18:12:44 GMT
It's more noticeable in neutral but you can hear it in drive too
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Post by harvey on Apr 17, 2016 18:41:41 GMT
If you can hear it in NEUTRAL then that limits the source of the noise to the driveplate, converter, front pump, input shaft, and the front clutch drum. Have you got the early bellhousing with the vent holes, and if so, are the stone guards fitted, and does the converter have a cooling shroud on it?
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Post by fortnum1977 on Apr 17, 2016 18:56:57 GMT
If you can hear it in NEUTRAL then that limits the source of the noise to the driveplate, converter, front pump, input shaft, and the front clutch drum. Have you got the early bellhousing with the vent holes, and if so, are the stone guards fitted, and does the converter have a cooling shroud on it? Hi have no idea of the spec all I know is it was made in '72 so that means it's a late unit |
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Post by harvey on Apr 17, 2016 19:13:25 GMT
Hi have no idea of the spec all I know is it was made in '72 so that means it's a late unit A lot can have happened between 1972 and now..... |
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Post by fortnum1977 on Apr 17, 2016 19:17:52 GMT
that's true, no a lot on my car is original I think
I think best bet would be to find a good garage, someone who has experience of bw35s. I have had so many bad experiences of garages that ust dont know what theyre dealing with. If you know someone in south east london do let me know,
thanks
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 17, 2016 20:30:27 GMT
that's true, no a lot on my car is original I think I think best bet would be to find a good garage, someone who has experience of bw35s. I have had so many bad experiences of garages that ust dont know what theyre dealing with. If you know someone in south east london do let me know, thanks Harvey is the BW gearbox Guru I am sure he can help  |
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Post by enigmas on Apr 17, 2016 22:29:43 GMT
If the gearbox is original it's given the car good service to this day. Your descriptions of the maladies point to a gearbox past its use by date. There is no cheap, quick fix band aid for it. Continuing to use it will just cause more issues and damage. Have it removed and give the gearbox and torque convertor (this will be well worn too) to an approved specialist, not the local garage for a full rebuild of both units.
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Post by fortnum1977 on Apr 18, 2016 17:19:18 GMT
Ok yeah it does not look good I must say.
So I don't really want to pay £1,000 for a bw35, there must be a way of getting hold of a cheaper one.
Also if anyone knows of an approved garage in s e London that would be helpful,
thanks
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Post by enigmas on Apr 18, 2016 22:23:53 GMT
Ok yeah it does not look good I must say. So I don't really want to pay £1,000 for a bw35, there must be a way of getting hold of a cheaper one. Also if anyone knows of an approved garage in s e London that would be helpful, thanks Unfortunately you really can't have it both ways unless you have some mechanical expertise! Given your earlier diagnostic comments I gauge that mechanical devices are not your forte. With respect, it doesn't make any sense in fitting second hand gearboxes and torque convertors with an unknown history to your car. There's nothing cost effective in it and will only lead to unreliabilty and frustation down the path. Do it once and do it right and your done. |
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Post by fortnum1977 on Apr 18, 2016 22:53:01 GMT
Yes I'm sure you're right -- I'm not too amateurish with mechanics, though. I've refitted a lot of things on my Rover that so called mechanics were left clueless by, such as a water pump, alternator, coil, points and bodywork.
It once broke down and a garage which was recommended replaced the distributor and ignition. Turned out to be a perforated carb float that was causing the breakdown, which I figured out after some inspection, and replaced costing £3. The new ignition cost £600.
Half the things I've taken my car in to get fixed garages have missed the problem, changed something else and it still breaks down leaving me with a whopping pointless bill.
Transmissions, however, are out of the question for me as I don't have anywhere to carry out such a big job.
I'm just astonished that a bw35 is so expensive, it was such a common thing years ago. I wouldn't expect to pay more than £200 for one.
Anyway I'm going to try and fix this with some help, just weighing up my options and trying to find someone competent,
fortnum
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Post by enigmas on Apr 19, 2016 2:51:00 GMT
You can probably find used BW35s for much less but you need to know what to look for and of course it's second hand with an unknown history. It's not the same thing as removing and fitting a water pump, alternator or set of points. For one thing, you'll need a rebuilt torque convertor as this is a totally specialist job. There is no way you can replace worn internal elements such as thrust washers, the one way sprag of the stator or straighten/braze the vanes of the impellor or turbine. You'd eventually be courting disaster by fitting an old torque convertor.
Remove both and have them professionally done makes sense if you're on a tight budget.
£200 for rebuilding both the auto and torque convertor is optimistic to the extreme even in Oz where these gearboxes are still readily available.
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Post by djm16 on Apr 19, 2016 23:29:31 GMT
I am also very much a "do it myself" person, but for the (pounds)950 exc vat from JRW, with warranty there is no way I would be mucking about with used parts. You could easily add up the difference in labour from having to do the job twice.
There are cheaper rebuilds available in Australia, but not that much cheaper - ball park $1100 to $1500.
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Post by Simon H on Apr 20, 2016 2:08:22 GMT
I've had over 40 years experience 'messing' with cars including building off road 4x4 competition vehicles and many engine conversions and manual gearbox rebuilds. After all that experience I still consider the workings of an auto box to be something akin to voodoo. Nothing that goes on in there seems to obey the laws of physics. Bite the bullet, accept the pain in the wallet and leave it to an expert...
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