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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2016 9:33:14 GMT
I moved the P5b this morning and parked it facing down hill, I noticed a large leak of fluid under the car. The leak was almost a continuous stream not a drip. The leak was as bad with the engine off or on.Quickly I reversed the vehicle back on to level ground and the leak stopped instantly. There is no way I can jack the car up or get in on ramps at the same angle and still get underneath,has anyone any ideas of what this could be before I get the spanners out again?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 28, 2016 10:10:51 GMT
I moved the P5b this morning and parked it facing down hill, I noticed a large leak of fluid under the car. The leak was almost a continuous stream not a drip. The leak was as bad with the engine off or on.Quickly I reversed the vehicle back on to level ground and the leak stopped instantly. There is no way I can jack the car up or get in on ramps at the same angle and still get underneath,has anyone any ideas of what this could be before I get the spanners out again? Have you recently filled the box Kev and are there leaks if you run through the box while static? It does sound like drain back Kev I am sure harvey will help with what may be the problem? Harvey post :- GEARBOX. Jul 30, 2012 at 10:24pm Post by harvey on Jul 30, 2012 at 10:24pm The problem is caused by the weight of the fluid in the top half of the converter causing it to drain back into the gearbox over time when the engine isn't run. There is a check valve in the valve block that is supposed to prevent this, but as it's only a sprung loaded ball bearing it's easily overcome. It can also drainback via the cooler and there are check valves that can be fitted in the cooler return line, but they were never standard on the Rover BW35's. The easiest way to prevent the problem is to start the engine every few days or so. Even if you overhaul the box, there's not much that you can do about it, you certainly can't guarantee that you're going to cure that particular problem. Read more: roverp5.proboards.com/search/results#ixzz477VOQUIaNB If you lay your car up for long periods of time you will for sure get the Drain Back problem
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Apr 28, 2016 11:50:21 GMT
Probably coming from the front pump oil seal Kev, just don't park it facing downhill
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2016 12:26:39 GMT
Thanks guys.The level in the box rises very quickly when the engine is turned off,the anti drain valve must seal very badly. Parked level with the engine running there seems to be no leak. The bell housing is dry inside,around the sump gasket it seems to have a few stains but nothing major,I'm guessing that the box level is too high with the engine off,as the fluid drains back into the sump so fast.Looking at the stains on the floor it looks as though there is a slight leak on the drivers side,maybe it dramatically increases as the gearbox gets hot. I knew people became incontinent as they got older,it looks like cars do too if this one is anything to go by (I guess that means it wont be long before I join in).
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Post by enigmas on Apr 28, 2016 15:11:22 GMT
Kev my Rover gets very little use these days and it doesn't seem to suffer from drain back. Perhaps silt or 'muck' has built up within the valve body causing this issue. Removing, disassembling and cleaning the valve body and separator plate may very well fix this problem.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2016 16:57:35 GMT
I really don't have the time at the moment to start pulling gearboxes out but it's an idea for later. I wonder if the overflow pipe was siphoning the fluid out because the level had risen due to drain back and the car facing down hill. Certainly it was coming out too fast to be a weep from a gasket etc.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 28, 2016 17:41:48 GMT
I know every time I lay up the car it drains back has done for the last 6 years or so, when I run the car for the rest of the year not a drop of oil! I wonder Kev if you have added just a bit too much Fluid? I would leave your spanners in the box for now I mean the tool box
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Post by enigmas on Apr 28, 2016 22:32:28 GMT
Kev, the valve body can be removed for evaluation and cleaning from underneath with the gearbox in situ after removing the pan. If your box has a drain plug it's a lot less messy. It can be easily done in an afternoon...each time gets quicker!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 29, 2016 8:34:33 GMT
Tempting to have the sump off and have a look,but it will have to wait. I'm busy clearing my stocks of tools and have four more cars to get ready for MOTs. I'm determined to get some use out of the camper this year as well. Attachments:
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Post by enigmas on Apr 29, 2016 10:29:09 GMT
If that's a transit van, my father had one years ago and managed to blow up the V4 engine on one of his trips.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 29, 2016 11:16:40 GMT
Yes a mk1 transit. The v4 has been incredibly reliable over the years. They don't like too many revs.
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Apr 29, 2016 18:39:57 GMT
Love the van Kev, I as watching a Mk1 Transit camper. ( V4 auto ) on e bay, it went for 2 n 1/2 grand.
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Post by lagain on Apr 29, 2016 20:32:26 GMT
My gearbox leaks after about ten days of not being started. When I lay her up for the winter I drain the fluid into a Tupperware and put it back in the spring. I then try to use her at least once a week to prevent any leakage. The picture of the Transit reminds me of when I was at agricultural college in the mid 70s. We went on a study tour of Holland and stayed in Amsterdam. On the way to the port the driver ran into the back of a post office van and smashed a headlight and crumpled the front wing - it stayed like that for the whole trip.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2016 6:55:03 GMT
It seems leaks are very common on the BW35. I can remember when the transit first came out, with their size and performance they were miles ahead of any other van at the time. I'll put some more pics in the relevant section.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 30, 2016 7:38:59 GMT
I was an area engineer with PYE Telecom in the 70's and my mobile workshop with "By App to HRM" crest on the sliding doors which were great in summer as long as you didn't get your arm in the way when braking! they were lethal, I drove a Transit for the next 30 years and loved them, it was the only thing I missed when I finished work
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2016 10:36:48 GMT
I had sliding doors on a LWB Mk1 transit,a weird driving experience,I remember our fruit and veg man had one and the distinctive sound as he pulled up and slid the door back. Thinking about it I've not seen anything with sliding doors for a long time,I also had an old BMC 'Threepenny bit' with the doors at the back of the cab,anyone remember them?.. I have added some pictures of the transit in the 'Other makes' section. The box hasn't leaked although the level goes a long way up the dipstick when stood. When dipped running and cold its about halfway between L and H. I'll keep an eye on it but obviously the anti drain back valve isn't doing the 'anti' part of its title.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 30, 2016 11:05:02 GMT
I had sliding doors on a LWB Mk1 transit,a weird driving experience,I remember our fruit and veg man had one and the distinctive sound as he pulled up and slid the door back. Thinking about it I've not seen anything with sliding doors for a long time,I also had an old BMC 'Threepenny bit' with the doors at the back of the cab,anyone remember them?.. I have added some pictures of the transit in the 'Other makes' section. The box hasn't leaked although the level goes a long way up the dipstick when stood. When dipped running and cold its about halfway between L and H. I'll keep an eye on it but obviously the anti drain back valve isn't doing the 'anti' part of its title. Posted by Harvey check the fluid level as follows: With the transmission at normal working temperature, the engine idling, and the car on level ground, run through the entire selector range allowing a few seconds in each position to allow it to engage, starting and finishing in PARK, then, with the engine still running walk round remove and wipe clean the dipstick and re-insert to take a level. You will have time for a few quick dips to try and get an accurate level. If you add fluid repeat the whole procedure before taking another level. Use only ATF-G or fluid that meets Ford spec. M2C-33G. DON'T use any of the DEXRON type fluids. A small amount of white blackboard chalk rubbed on the bottom of the dipstick, and then wiped off, dries it and makes seeing the level easier. Read more: roverp5.proboards.com/search/results#ixzz47J57wt9I
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Post by kiwip5b on Apr 11, 2017 1:51:31 GMT
I'm pleased to learn about this drain-back issue ... I thought it was only my P5B that drops its fluid all over the floor if its left for more than a few days! It's costing me a bomb in both fluid and Kitty Litter. I will investigate my car's non-return valve as soon as I get the chance.
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