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Post by roedmose on Mar 29, 2005 18:28:42 GMT
The window in the right hand side can't be winded all the way up. I think, I can recall this as a weak point on these cars. Does anybody know if the winder inside is the same on the saloon and the coupe ? And can one from a P6 be used ? (I have some extra doors for my P6 somewhere, so ir would be nice !!) If not : where to search for replacement ?
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Post by Smallfry on Mar 29, 2005 21:21:06 GMT
The winders are NOT the same, and they are also different to a P6......sorry
Try David Green, I am sure he will be able to help you.
This is a weak point on coupes, but not on saloons.
Hope this helps
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Post by roedmose on Apr 27, 2005 20:16:24 GMT
I had some extra doors for a P6 and I dismantled one to see. And in fact some of the mechanism is the same on a P6 as on the P5B coupe. The small pinion with its housing and rear plate is the same on both. Even the big toothed 'rachet' or what the name is, is ALMOST the same. The teeths have same distance on both but the P6 has a larger circel-piece that the P5B, but I assume it can easily be cut down. On mine the big 'racket' was ok, and the small pinion just slightly worn; the problem is wear in the backplate where the small pinions axle rests. To much wear here and the pinion will go to far to one side and get stuck or drop of the teeths. I have drilled out the rivets holding the arms on the big rackets on both and the rivest that holds the pinion in place. So now I will take the P6 backplate and pinion which is ok, and join these onto the racket from the P5B. New rivets on the pinion but the arm have to be welded onto the racket as I had to drill out the big rectagular rivet here. - So I guess in a couple of days the mechanism will be back in the door and I will update with the result. Please be aware that an exchange part can be bought from JRW, but as I live in DK I can not wait on this, if I in any way can avoid it. But this can be a quite easy emergency repair, I assume.
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Post by roedmose on Apr 29, 2005 12:04:56 GMT
My modified window winder mechanism is now in place in the door, and it works. Backplate and small sprocket from P6, the rest from the old one. I estimate it took some 3 hours additionel to make the rebuild. But the dismantling of the guts of the door and putting it back afterwards is additional to this. But this have to be done no matter if you want to install a new mechanism. All I need now is to align the window frame properly, and this seems to be difficult as well. Anyone want to do the same can contact me as I have a few photos. Mail to frank@roedmose.com
All in all a 'good' exercise !!!
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Post by roedmose on Apr 29, 2005 19:05:18 GMT
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Post by adrian50 on May 20, 2005 8:32:32 GMT
I have a good window mechanism to replave my worn one in my drivers door, but on two attempts I could not get the old one out of the door. I gave up in frustration and refitted the door trim.
Is there a secret to getting it out?
Thanks Adrian
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Post by roedmose on May 20, 2005 13:13:29 GMT
Not really !
I can do it now on 30 minutes, so if there will ever be a discipline at the olympics in taking out window winders on P5B coupe's I am ready !
But I have found that I must take everything apart. I will try to reconstruct how, as I recall it : I start by taking of the trim including the lock-knob and the wooden upper list. Then I remove the small list that sits at the top of the door that can now be reached when the wooden list is removed. Then I remove the entire window frame, by removing the 2 holdings inside the door. These are fixed with 4 screws each and I take them completely out of the door before I remove the frame. The frame is fixed with 2 small screws at the rear, and four more screws from the outside (2 front, 2 rear). If I remember correctly this should be it and the frame can be drawn up from the door. Before this is done, I have winded the window all the way down. Next step is to remove the stop-bracket for the window inside the door. Sits with 2 bolts. And the list with another 2 bolts that sits inside the door and has a rubber-lip that reaches out and touches the door. This list (with a name unknown to me) sits at the same height as the the stop-bracket. I normally now take out all the 6 bolts that holds the winder and be aware that you will now loose control over the inside of the door, as the winder will drop partly etc. Now the glass can be lifted out. By looking down in the door (have good lights ready), and manipulating the glass and winder its dowls can be navigated out of the winder-bracket. Then the winder can be taken out through the lower rear hole and only there. The arms have to be in correct position etc, but this will be evident, when trying. And as in the books : replacing is just the reverse process. Be aware that the door might surprise with lack of rust-protection. Now is the time when the door is striped, so have a bottle with rust-protection ready. Also when the frame is repositioned it has to be re-alligned so the door closes correctly again. You migth benefit from marking the positions of the 2 lower frame-holders as these can move both in all directions, to give an indication of where to re-fit. I also had great benefit from re-alligning the door itself, when the frame was off, as this removes the possibility of the frame disturbing. So I realligned the door until I was satisfied, and now I knew that should there be any problems after the window-frame was attached, these problems would be related to the frame !! When re-alligning the windowframe, also take into account that the window can move undisturbed up and down !
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Post by Roy Fellingham on May 23, 2005 13:58:36 GMT
Drill out the rivets on any P5 winder that is good and use the centre ratchet on your front mechanism, rivet, weld or otherwise and you have a 'reconditioned' unit.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 23, 2005 16:21:05 GMT
???Does that include winders from saloons?
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Post by Roy Fellingham on May 24, 2005 11:43:42 GMT
The winder part is all the same, use back ones as they get less wear anyway
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Post by David Green on Jun 1, 2005 22:34:38 GMT
Just had some coupe window winders re-furbished. Go out at £58 plus £7 postage each.
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newp5bcoupe
Rover Rookie
One big happy family - we're now up to five.:)
Posts: 17
Location: Near Johannesburg, South Africa
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Post by newp5bcoupe on Dec 3, 2018 15:27:32 GMT
Thanks for your advice. So there,s no way to use a p5 saloon’s winder on a coupé? Am in South Africa so trying what I can with plentiful saloon parts. Coupes scarce here. darn.
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newp5bcoupe
Rover Rookie
One big happy family - we're now up to five.:)
Posts: 17
Location: Near Johannesburg, South Africa
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Post by newp5bcoupe on Dec 3, 2018 15:28:57 GMT
Can you quote on postage to South Africa?
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Post by OlafR on Dec 9, 2018 13:34:57 GMT
I still need to sort out my window winder problem (LH back) which I wanted to see into today. However, I wouldn't have thought that you obviously need to completely remove the wood ledger et al. Also, since my mechanism is blocked, I cannot roll the window down before loosening the mechanism.
As the thread is very old, does anyone have any further hints or experience how to best (or better, or simpler) proceed with this matter?
Cheers, Olaf
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