martinbay1
Rover Rookie
1971 P5B Coupe
Posts: 20
Location: Hailsham, East Sussex
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Post by martinbay1 on Aug 9, 2016 12:18:20 GMT
I've just been quoted £15k to strip and repaint my P5B coupe. Since this is double what I paid for the car I'm obviously not going there! Does anybody know anywhere in the South-East that can do the same job a lot cheaper?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 9, 2016 14:39:50 GMT
To be honest £15k for a bare metal respray is about right for a "proper" job that's about 8 weeks work! once you get into restoring a P5/P5b it eats up time, a lot of cars need more doing than just a simple respray they can look not to bad until you get down to the bare metal. You can get a cheaper quote I am sure but get some recommendations from people who have had work done. Good Luck
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martinbay1
Rover Rookie
1971 P5B Coupe
Posts: 20
Location: Hailsham, East Sussex
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Post by martinbay1 on Aug 10, 2016 9:33:03 GMT
Many thanks, I'll Multitech - I found them on google & they're still in business.
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martinbay1
Rover Rookie
1971 P5B Coupe
Posts: 20
Location: Hailsham, East Sussex
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Post by martinbay1 on Aug 10, 2016 9:34:23 GMT
Many thanks. I'm not sure I can convince my better half that we can wait for a new kitchen!
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Post by Multi-Tech on Aug 13, 2016 7:31:03 GMT
I'm still alive....... If I can help in anyway please feel free to contact me on 01276 423353 or 01483 550695
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 13, 2016 12:07:08 GMT
Hi Richard a good hard Carnuba Wax for me!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 13, 2016 12:52:33 GMT
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Post by Multi-Tech on Aug 13, 2016 20:59:59 GMT
Hi, I'll take you up on that offer and ask a question on the forum so that the response can be available to all for info. I've just had a two pack respray with a standard clearcoat finish. It's very good and I've bought some Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax to maintain the finish as necessary. I've finally got my head around the fact that I'm polishing and maintaining the clearcoat and not the paint it covers! For one or two areas which could be improved, can you recommend a good suitable polish which can be applied BY HAND? Thanks in advance. Hi firstly I guess you mean you've had a base and clear (lacquar) application and meaning the two pack lacquar as a pose to two pack direct gloss which is the paint and hardener? Did you choose to have that finish as it sounds to me you prefer the direct gloss and have more understanding of that? With regards to something that can be used to the other areas I agree with John with the Farecla G3 but go for there new premium, I'm using this when flat and polishing job and very impressed with the finish it gives. Anything you do use this on remember to apply a good wax after
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Post by tmulchro on Dec 2, 2018 15:14:52 GMT
Hi - I am similarly thinking of getting a bare metal respray of my 1971 P5B coupe - late next year...
I am based in London, but would consider anyone in the South East....
Can anyone recommend someone that has done this work before, including replacing and sealing the front and rear windscreens ?
Thx Tony
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Post by ray on Dec 3, 2018 11:52:54 GMT
Tony, The place that did mine on the South Coast have changed hands, so I cannot recommend. But I got a screen fitter to agree to do the screen but leave-out the S/Steel trim re-fitting. That is the bit that can take lots of time. I refitted that after the work, over the next two weeks. Yes it did take 2 weeks! you have to be really careful not to damage the trim when pressing on it but it will not easily go over the new rubber & Clips...and when it all fits... one bit pop's off again! ...and you have to go round again fiddling it all back. After 2 weeks it had settled and the trim stayed in place. It is not difficult but is very time consuming!
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Post by Brendan69 on Dec 3, 2018 13:02:48 GMT
Tony, The place that did mine on the South Coast have changed hands, so I cannot recommend. But I got a screen fitter to agree to do the screen but leave-out the S/Steel trim re-fitting. That is the bit that can take lots of time. I refitted that after the work, over the next two weeks. Yes it did take 2 weeks! you have to be really careful not to damage the trim when pressing on it but it will not easily go over the new rubber & Clips...and when it all fits... one bit pop's off again! ...and you have to go round again fiddling it all back. After 2 weeks it had settled and the trim stayed in place. It is not difficult but is very time consuming! Thank god both my screen seals are fine then. LOL
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Post by djm16 on Dec 3, 2018 23:22:20 GMT
Regarding a bare-metal respray.
I have seen numerous examples of "getting a cheaper job done". Primarily, after around 10 years, you start to see bubbling of the paint in areas where careful preparation was skimped, rust not entirely removed / cut out, and / or bog applied to metal. The other sad sight is that of clear coat over colour peeling after exposure to the elements.
Incidentally, a quality 2k clear coat or solid colour should not need waxing. A wash and wipe with detergent and a scrupulously clean sponge should reveal an unblemished finish that will be devoid of the swirl marks you get from enthusiastic polishing.
Try looking at it this way, you bought the car for 6k, you spend 15k on a good body restoration, total 21k. But you have a car now worth 30k and likely to maintain its value for 30 years or more if looked after.
If instead you get a cheap job done, and spend 10k on a quick respray, you will have spent 16k and have a car that might pass for 30k for a few years, but in 10y time will be worth only what you paid for it, with rust showing in the bottoms of the doors, and the wings rotting out from the inside.
So before you spend, check what you are getting for your money. How much of the following preparation would be skipped:
Removal of four doors including removal of all glass, winders, channels and weather strips. Removal of four wings, stripping of underseal from them, sand blasting to metal, repair of the rust holes that will appear when that is done. Repairs to A, B and C posts, and the sills, including rust inhibitor to the enclosed parts. Removal of bonnet and boot lids for sand blasting. Removal of front and rear screens prior to stripping the body with abrasive discs, and replacement with new seals.
If someone is prepared to do all that for 15k, then I would bite his hand off. Now if you were to do a lot of the donkey work in the way of removing parts etc, you could save a bit.
An alternative that I would be tempted to do would be to do as much as possible in the way of stabilising any visible rust, mask it up yourself, and spend a week rubbing back the paint with 240 grit, and then have your painter tidy up the preparation before brightening up the finish with three of four coats of cellulose.
To my eye, a careful conservation looks preferable to a cheap "restoration".
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