... I assume you've had no problems with the stability of the mounting? Also, what did you use for the coupling to the volvo input steering shaft from the Rover shaft in the car? The Volvo rag connector disc is not as large in diameter as the Rover one, ...
Ken and Owen, the mounting is as solid as a rock. The modification was done by the previous owner, who was a retired aircraft maintenance engineer. So everything was done very well.
This bolts in between the Volvo ZF Steering box 2 bolt T piece (for want of a better description) and the existing Rover one in place of the old circular Rover coupling. You just need to add an earth wire between the 2 for the horn to function.
Hope that makes sense - I can’t upload photos atm.
Thanks Warwick and Vince. Glad to hear the adaptor plate is solid. It will be easier to make than the other style with the extended arm for the 3rd subframe bolt that Peter V. has shown in his posts. It lacks a bolt for the original separate (3rd) subframe bolt, but adds a new bolt through the additional hole that is left empty with the Rover box. So in the end both methods have 3 bolts from adaptor to subframe and now 4 bolts for the Volvo box mounting holes (2 all the way through, and 2 threaded into the plate). Hopefully the shafts will line up enough when done so that I can use the Triumph coupler to connect them easily. It may be awhile before garage temp gets up over 40º F though.
I have just joined the Club forum,however have been a member for some time,P5b,P4,Triumph TR6,etc.I was interested to see the Triumph Flexible coupling being used-I was planning something similar on my P5b as i dont like the look of the existing flex disc,and there are no new ones to be had.I have previously replaced the TR6 coupling with a new one some time ago and it dramatically improved the TR steering even though the old one did not appear visually too bad.I have a Lexus LS 400 on the drive to be used as an engine donor for the P4 80,and i intend to see if the Power steering Rack could also fit the 80 and replace the existing stuff.The LS rack is located behind the front axle just like the existing steering box and linkages,i intend to check the geometry in due course once my new garage is complete.Allways interesting to see how other owners look for improvements.Philip from West Sussex,
Well I am back at the Volvo Steering box conversion. I've made a wood template for the steel mounting plate. Difficult to crawl down in there to measure and mount the heavy box, but it seems that the steering arm and input shaft may come out close enough. Measurements in pics below, but only +/- 1/8" accuracy. The Volvo uses 3/8" bolts instead of the 7/16" one for the Rover box, but I assume they'll be strong enough using grade 8 bolts. I'm planning on drilling my 3/8" steel plate with 3/4" holes and inserting bungs threaded for 3/8" NC bolts. Two bolts should go through the frame, plate, and box and tighten up with nylon nuts inside engine compartment (I've ordered 8" long bolts for these), one 5" bolt will go through outside frame into tapped plate, and two 3-1/2" bolts will go through Volvo box inside engine compartment and into the tapped plate. A potential problem may be having the input shaft connector doughnut clear the exhaust downpipe on my 3 litre engine. See pictures and tell me what you think.
Hi Ken, I didn't realize initially that your 3 litre is a LHD car.
That rubber doughnut is too close (literally touching) the exhaust engine pipe. It's difficult to discern things clearly from the photos as I can't gauge the relative positions of other stuff (bits & pieces) in the engine bay. If it's only a matter of redirecting the engine pipe by cutting, adding a bend or two and rewelding the pieces...it shouldn't be a big deal. Any decent exhaust shop should be capable of this or if you're handy with a welder it's straight forward, just fiddly.
I think making a wooden template first and fitting it is a great idea as it allows you to make alternate templates till you get the orientation correct.
Thanks Vince, yes it is a LHD which makes it hard sometimes to know if I am comparing the correct pictures with each other from the forum. The Volvo box in my pictures is not bolted in tightly (the rope I have suspending it is in the way) so I know that I will be able to readjust things much better in the end. For now I am trying to be sure that my bolt hole positions line up correctly with the frame, plate, and box. I think it will work, but eventually I'll have to bite the bullet and drill the steel plate and weld in the bungs after a trial bolt up. If the downpipe fouls the connector then I will have to pursue cutting the pipe as you said. I wonder if anyone has done this conversion on a 3-litre and had trouble with, or a suggestion for, the pipe? Thanks for the encouragement. Updates to follow.
Working now on making the steering shaft connector from Rover column to Volvo box. I think that with a bit of fettling of the mounting holes for the U-joint and the Triumph rubber connector holes it will be possible to connect the smaller Volvo half U-joint directly to the larger Rover half U-joint with rubber donut in between. One set of holes in the rubber donut need to be extended out slightly (for the Rover part to fit) and the other pair of holes (for the Volvo part) need to be extended inward slightly (and/or the holes on the Volvo part enlarged outward slightly). I still have to make the steel plate to match the wood template I've made. Without a professional machine shop's set of equipment it's a bit slow going still.
Steering shaft connector worked on and may be complete, although I see that Vince needed to combine the Triumph rubber bit with the rag connector from the Rover to span the gap. I'll find that out later when box is mounted. The template seems to indicate a good rough lineup and I'm starting to make the 3/8" steel mounting plate using 3/4" tank bungs that I'll weld through the plate. They are tapped for 3/8" bolts which I'm planning to use so far.
Moving ahead slowly. I have made the 3/8" steel mounting plate now, although will probably need to drill the Volvo PS Box mounting holes from 3/8" to 7/16" to give myself slightly more room to manipulate one of the bolts into the plate. It's perhaps off by 1/16" or less. Once I do another trial fit after I'll weld the bungs in place. It looks as if the connector piece will work for me, but it may likely foul the exhaust pipe. To be dealt with later. Has anyone out there done one of these conversion on a LHD 3-litre car before?
Hi Ken, I'd say you're the first for a 3 litre. Nice job on the plate & bungs. If you've kept accurate drawings and measurements I'm sure ypu could defray some of your development costs by making up a few left hand drive mounting plates.
OK, I now have the plate and Volvo box bolted in. Next is to work on the connector for the steering shaft, but the shafts are not perfectly aligned. There is some ability to push the steering column in the car over to get closer in line for the connection. Is that likely to be a problem for me? Any advice from folks out there who have done one?
Ken there's hardly anything in the misalignment of the 2 shafts. I can't see that moving the steering column (such a small amount) at the connecting end (to the PSB) would cause any issues with the internals of the steering column or the pedals.
The other alternative is to fit stacked washers (or carfully made spacers) of the appropriate amount/thickness to offset the steering box enough so that the shafts align correctly.
I'd do whichever is easiest without affecting/altering the steering geometry.
You were right Vince, the shafts don't have to be perfectly aligned. I adjusted them slightly better, but they connected fairly easily and look as if they will work well. HOWEVER, I now enter into the next phase of problem solving, which you can see in this picture. There is a rather large exhaust downpipe in the way, and it must be somehow rearranged/bent to clear the connector. There is very little clearance in that are due to the bulky starter motor as well, so I'll have to see what I can come up with.
Hi Ken, If you can weld steam pipe it's truly no big deal. All you require is a range of bends at various angles or an exhaust pipe U bend of the correct diameter as it can be cut into various small sections to create the turns you require. Good luck with the final part of your project. Looking forward to your report on the finished project.