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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2006 17:10:38 GMT
Hi
My 68 LHD coupe had been equipped with an aftermarket theft proof coil. After taking this out my tacho does not work correctly any more. In fact when I wire it up as shown in the manual it reads far too high revs. Everything else works properly, ignition timing asf is in perfect order. Any clues?
Michael
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Post by Keith - Portsmouth on Feb 10, 2006 19:52:00 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2006 10:41:08 GMT
Hi My 68 LHD coupe had been equipped with an aftermarket theft proof coil. After taking this out my tacho does not work correctly any more. In fact when I wire it up as shown in the manual it reads far too high revs. Everything else works properly, ignition timing asf is in perfect order. Any clues? Michael Keith and Phil Thank you, that helped a lot. I managed to rip a lot of cables out and that did the trick. One more question: Does anybody know the correct Ohm measurement of the ballast resistor? Michael
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 28, 2006 18:02:20 GMT
Yes but I have forgotten!
I will have a think - I have one anyway as they are standard Lucas so I can measure it once I have found where I put iT
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Post by Deleted on Mar 1, 2006 11:22:15 GMT
The more you know....
As I said someone bodged parts of the wiring when fitting a theftproof coil and I am trying to get it back to normal as close as possible. By the way, my car is the official demonstrator car and the car was only sold 12 times in Germany - no wonder as it was the second most expenseive car on the market in '69, only topped by the RR Silver Something.
Diving deeper into that mess. Is the connection ignition switch-coil via the rev counter additional or does this substitute the WP-cable in the diagramm?
Does the lucar connector need a complete seperate feed from the ignition switch? All wires on my rev counter are joined in one black three point socket which looks original. In the respective plug there is a bridge between the green wire from the lucar connector and one end of the loop, so the feed from the switch is connected to both. Does that matter?
What is the cable between the starter motor and the coil for? I do not have it and everthing is working except the rev counter.
Any hints are very welcome.
To give something back: I found the instrument illumination not bright enough and was thinking of replacing the rheostat switch. I found that it had a good deal of electrical resistance even in the brightest position. So I put a drop of solder where the thin wire is clamped to the connector, one drop where the wire meets the coil, soldering two or three turns together and one drop to the reverse inner side of the coil, where the sliding contact touches the coil. This drop I flattened with a dremel so it slides easily. Effect: the resistance is close to zero in that position, the lamps are much brighter and the original rheostat still works.
Michael
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Post by RichardF on Mar 1, 2006 16:07:38 GMT
Michael, On the subject of instrument lights, and you may have read the relevent thread already, one or two of us have converted to LEDs and have found a vast improvement.
RichardF Southampton
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 1, 2006 19:26:18 GMT
;)The Rev counter wiring was the same on all variants. The coil supply came in 3 guises The 1st was with a separate Ballast resistor at the side of the coil on the n/s inner wing approx middle (UK-wise) for cars till early 1969 The 2nd was a wiring loom resistive wire ballast (pink) - coil at top of n/s wing The 3rd was the thiefproof arrangement on the O/s on the Servo bracket - no ballast and 12v coil.- from approx 1971 The 2 ballasted versions require a shunt cable from a extra terminal on the pre-engaged starter motor solenoid to bypass the ballast to give full 12v to the coil when the starter is operated. I do not know what arrangements were special to export versions and beware that the wiring diagrams in the handbooks and W/s manuals are not entirely accurate for all model types
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