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Post by ozriderp5 on Mar 19, 2017 8:01:39 GMT
Hi All I bought this yesterday....plan is to eventually restore it. In Victoria, where I live, there is a club scheme for vehicles over 25 years old, rego and insurance is dirt cheap as you can only use them 90 days a year. Needs a RWC (MOT) so I'll post a list of questions later. So, paint is horrible, looks like someone started to rub down scratches etc then just threw thick black paint on it, interior is shocking with black vinyl everywhere and will need work. Mechanically good and almost rust free (from what I can see). Previous owner is a Muso (Musician) who used it as a bit of a calling card, old rocker in an old British Rat Rod. It will be a while before I get round to restoring it as I'm currently restoring a 64 Mini 850 so there's a queue. I'm going to embrace the Rat Rod spirit and pretend I meant it to be that way . I've sanded down a few marks, it looks like it may have had a silver roof originally??? Anyway, this is my P5 'Rat Rod'.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Mar 19, 2017 8:16:20 GMT
Hi All
As I need to get an MOT for this I have some questions.
1. Are any parts interchangeable with Land Rovers as there a hundreds of old Land Rovers here? 2. Steering Box is a bit notchy, are they readily available or interchangeable as above? - Steering is pretty good on the move but really heavy turning when going slow. 3. Parking light, indicators front and rear are cracked and broken, are they available? 4. Wipers only cover a small ark, is this adjustable? 5. Instrument panel lights don't work, are they accessible?
Any help, links etc appreciated.
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Post by enigmas on Mar 19, 2017 9:37:29 GMT
Welcome to the forum Ozriderp5. I've owned a P5 coupe (modified) for the last 24 years and live relatively close to Melb. The Club Permit Scheme works really well and is available in both 45 day and 90 day options. It can also be easily upgraded to the latter when the first 45 days have expired if and when the need arises. There is also a 3 month grace period if the first 45 days have expired and payment has not been made, but the car cannot be used until payment is made. A Road Worthy Certificate (RWC, not a MOT) is required before a Club Permit can be obtained. There are a range of clubs that may suit your needs in Vic, but the most obvious ones aren't always best to meet a range of varying needs. If you'd like to discuss these cars and options available PM me.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Mar 19, 2017 10:02:54 GMT
Welcome to the forum Ozriderp5. I've owned a P5 coupe (modified) for the last 24 years and live relatively close to Melb. The Club Permit Scheme works really well and is available in both 45 day and 90 day options. It can also be easily upgraded to the latter when the first 45 days have expired if and when the need arises. There is also a 3 month grace period if the first 45 days have expired and payment has not been made, but the car cannot be used until payment is made. A Road Worthy Certificate (RWC, not a MOT) is required before a Club Permit can be obtained. There are a range of clubs that may suit your needs in Vic, but the most obvious ones aren't always best to meet a range of varying needs. If you'd like to discuss these cars and options available PM me. Thanks, only used the MOT acronym as it's a British site. I'll do everything through the Mini club. I'll PM you re roadworthy items, though it sounds like it's been a while for you.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 19, 2017 10:40:55 GMT
Some engine and manual gear box parts are interchangeable with readily available Series Land Rovers but it depends what engine it has as 1962 on had the Westlake head with detachable inlet manifold so more differences.
Electrical and trim parts are easily available from UK suppliers and rubbers from Scotts over there
Saloons had the duo tone below the body side strip - never a different roof only colour and never metallics. It has P5B wheels too.
Good luck with it and we look forward to hearing more
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Post by enigmas on Mar 19, 2017 10:53:04 GMT
Welcome to the forum Ozriderp5. I've owned a P5 coupe (modified) for the last 24 years and live relatively close to Melb. The Club Permit Scheme works really well and is available in both 45 day and 90 day options. It can also be easily upgraded to the latter when the first 45 days have expired if and when the need arises. There is also a 3 month grace period if the first 45 days have expired and payment has not been made, but the car cannot be used until payment is made. A Road Worthy Certificate (RWC, not a MOT) is required before a Club Permit can be obtained. There are a range of clubs that may suit your needs in Vic, but the most obvious ones aren't always best to meet a range of varying needs. If you'd like to discuss these cars and options available PM me. Thanks, only used the MOT acronym as it's a British site. I'll do everything through the Mini club. I'll PM you re roadworthy items, though it sounds like it's been a while for you. Not really...November 2016. I have a diverse range of projects.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Mar 19, 2017 10:54:56 GMT
Some engine and manual gear box parts are interchangeable with readily available Series Land Rovers but it depends what engine it has as 1962 on had the Westlake head with detachable inlet manifold so more differences. Electrical and trim parts are easily available from UK suppliers and rubbers from Scotts over there Saloons had the duo tone below the body side strip - never a different roof only colour and never metallics. It has P5B wheels too. Good luck with it and we look forward to hearing more Any links to suppliers would be great. Original wheels came with it, no hub caps though.
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Post by Warwick on Mar 19, 2017 12:39:57 GMT
Hi All I bought this yesterday.... Welcome to the forum, OzriderP5. A lovely little town, Yarragon, isn't it? What better thing to do after picking up your new project than to stop at the bakery for lunch.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Mar 19, 2017 20:02:04 GMT
Hi All I bought this yesterday.... Welcome to the forum, OzriderP5. A lovely little town, Yarragon, isn't it? What better thing to do after picking up your new project than to stop at the bakery for lunch. Great town, they do the best Apple Slices I've had in a long time...
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Post by Warwick on Mar 20, 2017 0:34:37 GMT
Great town, they do the best Apple Slices I've had in a long time... If you'd been there 20 minutes earlier, we would have bumped into each other at the counter. And if you'd taken that photo a few minutes earlier, I would have been in it, driving past. You passed us at the western end of the street, while we were parked on the side of the road. (White 1987 Range Rover). You'd just pulled up and still sitting in the car outside the bakery when we drove past. Contact Mark Richmond. I'll send you a PM with his mobile number. He was in South Oakleigh, but he's now in Ballarat, so probably a bit quicker to get to now for you. Mark is the brother of Scott of Scott's Old Auto Rubber (mentioned by Phil). He wrecks P5s and P6s and he knows your car and its history. He owned it for a while but it was too good to be wrecked for parts so he sold it on. The car has been 'mentioned in despatches' quite a bit in the RCCA since the eBay ad appeared. Apparently it was originally owned for many years by a member of the Melbourne judiciary. I became aware of it when a friend emailed me a link to the eBay ad a week and a half ago, saying he thought it was the same car he had seen in the car park at Bunnings in Warragul.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Mar 22, 2017 20:25:59 GMT
I'm working through stuff for the RWC.
My speedo and instrument gauge overlays have gone yellow, I've puled them out and tried to polish but with no success.
Is there anywhere I can get replacements or aftermarket ones?
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Post by Warwick on Mar 22, 2017 23:00:17 GMT
I can't remember - are they flat plastic, or domed? If flat then either of these firms should be able to cut and fit new discs of the appropriate plastic. Howard Instruments in West Heidelberg (Melbourne, not Germany), Ringwood Speedometer Service in Mitcham. Ringwood Speedometer Service 9874 2260 Howard Instruments 9457 4755 www.howardinstruments.com.auIf not, you might be left with no option but to get replacement instruments from Mark Richmond or David Green.
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Post by djm16 on Mar 23, 2017 4:05:02 GMT
Parts from Landrover suppliers tend to be quite a lot more than our usual two main suppliers.
Wadhams John Wearing.
David Green has also been mentioned.
As a 1960 3 litre, does it have a PAS box or a manual? Either are a ver4y specialized rebuild. There is someone over here in Perth WA who will still do them. Cost $400 to $800. However he is getting very old, so get a move on!
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Post by Eric R on Mar 23, 2017 10:16:27 GMT
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Post by djm16 on Mar 25, 2017 14:06:18 GMT
Hang on, what is a 3-litre doing with Rostyles?
The instrument inserts are available from JRwadhams for not very much (I replaced the ones in my 1955 P4 and have not regretted it).
4) wipers, the cable is probably stiff with old grease. It can be pulled out and cleaned. The wiper motor should be completely disassenbled and the twin roller races again cleaned of old stiff grease and the bronze bushing re-oiled.
5) the instrument lights are easy enough to replace. Panel switch lights on mine melted their holder and caused a short. I recommend replacing these with LEDs.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Mar 25, 2017 19:59:51 GMT
Hang on, what is a 3-litre doing with Rostyles? The instrument inserts are available from JRwadhams for not very much (I replaced the ones in my 1955 P4 and have not regretted it). 4) wipers, the cable is probably stiff with old grease. It can be pulled out and cleaned. The wiper motor should be completely disassenbled and the twin roller races again cleaned of old stiff grease and the bronze bushing re-oiled. 5) the instrument lights are easy enough to replace. Panel switch lights on mine melted their holder and caused a short. I recommend replacing these with LEDs. Thanks, I've contacted Wadhams. I'll try the wiper assembly fixes and see how they go. The dash lights are getting no power, the bulbs work ok. I'll rewire it into the ignition so they come on with the engine and replace with LEDS.
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Post by GlennR on Mar 25, 2017 20:37:10 GMT
Welcome to the forum fella.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 26, 2017 9:53:13 GMT
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Post by ozriderp5 on Mar 26, 2017 10:28:38 GMT
Worked through some of the issues required for a Roadworthy. All lights now work, lenses required for rear indicators, front left indicator and both front park lights. Reversing light fixed and number plate lights replaced with LED's. Dash lights have power, suspect an earth issue when everything is put back together. Suspension returned to standard, torsion bar adjusters refitted and rear lowering blocks removed. Front end doesn't look too bad, a few split boots on the left but all in all pretty good. Car will continue to look like Rat Boy for some time, I'm just sanding down where the paint is bad looking for rust. If I find I'll patch and eventually replace sections with new steel. Suspension back to Standard Front end
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Post by djm16 on Mar 27, 2017 15:14:34 GMT
Do not buy rubber TRE boots as sold for P5s. Get on to eBay and look for polyurethane and / or silicon boots of a comparable size. (for the P4, there are some Mercedes TRE boots that fit)
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Post by ozriderp5 on Apr 2, 2017 8:07:18 GMT
Working through the growing list of items for the RWC.
- All lenses replaced - Rear Y mounts rebuilt and replaced - Rear Shackles refitted and cut to size - New instrument gauge faces fitted - Steering wheel cracks repaired (filled) - Bought 205/75R15 Whitewalls to replace the old cracked 215/75R15's - Bought a MK2C Steering box
General stuff
New Radiator cap fitted (old one was too small and wasn't actually sealing anything) Replacing dash bulbs with LED's
Still to do
Rear Shoes need replaced Fuel pump needs replaced, makes a load clacking noise Fuel gauge and volt meter don't work Replace wipers
I'll fix the front rubbers when I get my parts delivered.
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Post by enigmas on Apr 2, 2017 9:58:35 GMT
How (& what type) did you replace the instrument bulbs with LEDs? Did it involve much work and has it brightened up the binnacle?
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Post by ozriderp5 on Apr 2, 2017 10:54:52 GMT
Could you tell us more about the "Y" bush rebuild? Hi, basically following others advise. 1. Remove the existing ones and cut of the rubber. (Hacksaw lubed with silicone spray then a sharp knife to take it to bare metal) 2. Clean the metal fixture 3. Drill a hole in the centre of each side. 4. Attach a P5B engine mount to each side. 5. Refit. I've read a couple of posts that say there should be no deformation at rest, I don't know how to fix that yet.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Apr 2, 2017 11:05:37 GMT
How (& what type) did you replace the instrument bulbs with LEDs? Did it involve much work and has it brightened up the binnacle? The lights that plug into the back of the instrument cluster and speedo are old fashioned screw in bulbs. I'm not expecting miracles as there is not a lot of space for the light to get through to the front of the assembly. I've ordered these www.ebay.com.au/itm/302121403800?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I'm primarily doing it for power consumption but I've had great success with previous cars replacing interior lights with LED's I'm also ordering a heap of these to replace what I can with T10 Blade LED's. (I have a bag of them left over from the XR8) www.ebay.com.au/itm/272312544142
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Post by ozriderp5 on Apr 2, 2017 11:51:21 GMT
Engine Mounts have been tried before with limited success because they quickly shear but I don't think I've seen one which has been drilled through like yours. It won't shear because of the bolt but as soon as it's tightened up, haven't you created a static bush which won't be able to move fore & aft? How will the spring be able to flex and extend? The engine mount has a bolt either side, it doesn't go all the way through. Rubber is free to flex. Advise I was given is that the P5B engine mount is smaller and less prone to shearing. We'll see how it goes.
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