electric ignition info

[p5coupepaul]

im thinking of fitting a electronic ignition to my p5b
any suggestions on what would be the best one to fit and good supliers please
cheers
paul

[lagain]

I have had Luminition for about 40 years and have never had any problems, but other people have and I think that it can be caused by incorrect output from the coil.
There is a problem if you have the armoured tube that goes from the ignition switch to the coil as you cannot get to the wire that you need to to power the ignition when the key is turned.(most power sources go off when you turn the key) I have a switch similar to the screen wash switch that takes power from the constant live on the fuse box (interior lights etc ) . I just hold it in while turning the key and release it when the engine starts. I have yet to work out a way around it, but it is a sort of security device !

[petervdvelde]

i fitted a Powerspark distributor approx 2 years ago and recently it caused problems so i replaced it with a Range Rover distributor. This can only be done if you change the oil pump connection to a male type which i did when i fitted the Powerspark distributor,

Peter

[enigmas]

Interesting reading the feedback. From both practical experience and researching the tech details over the years my personal conclusion on the failure rate of many of the modules (been there) whether, Pertronix or clone, Lumenition, Piranha or other, is that most failures are down to misunderstanding the voltage limits/requirements of the modules when in constant operation.

Voltage to the module and the coil should be around 13.5v (check specific literature). This should be done with the engine running as voltage output can often be as high as 15.5v. This excessive, continuous voltage overheats the modules in short time. The module then cuts out, only to function once again after a cooling period of approximately a half hour or so. This cycle will repeat until the module eventual gives up and dies!

Fitting appropriate resistors in the power feed to the module and coil (check with the engine running) will resolve the issue. Also never use a low ohm sports coil. Use a standard non ballast points coil of 3.2 - 3.5 ohm. (Yes, there are ways around this, but it's easier not to go there if unfamiliar how to add appropriate resistance to the electrical feed)

For starting in cold weather when there's a lot of electrical drain to the starter motor, a direct bypass power feed from the appropriate terminal on the starter motor solenoid can be used direct to the module. This feed only supplies power during cranking so has no damaging effect on the module.

The method outlined above has worked well for me on my project cars/bikes for over 2 decades.

[benedict_h]

After disappointing experiences with the Powerspark dizzy and module, I fitted 123ignition Tune+ a few weeks ago, and so far it has worked absolutely fine. Engine runs better than ever before. You can monitor quite a few data (advance curve, vacuum, volts, block temperature, revs, speed (gps)) via an app (android or ios), which is connected through bluetooth. The same app can also be used to 'tune as you go', that is, you can manage the settings for advance curve and vacuum with the engine running. Or rather have someone to manage if for you if you're on the motorway, of course. It also has a anti-theft device, secured by a 4 digit code.

There's indeed also a severe downside to it: the price. Now, if I'd got the Powerspark ignition to work properly in the first place, I would have probably left it for decades. But as I kept messing about, admittedly partly as a result of my own lack of experience in these matters, to get first get the Powerspark dizzy installed (it just did not fit, leaving no space to turn it, and later the module in the old dizzy, I decided to go for quality. Car's worth it.

So far, so good. Fingers crossed.
Regards,
Benedict

[stef]

Hello; On my p5b, I replaced it advantageously by that of a range 3.9l. greetings Stef

[petervdvelde]

Stef,

The oil pump connections on the dizzy on a P5B is a male connection and on a SD1 and Range Rover this is a female type connection. Curious how you solved this. I have also fitted a Range Rover dizzy and am happy with it but also changed the oil pump to make the dizzy fit

Peter

[stef]

Hello ; Simply remove the adapter and replace it with a fitted pin!
 Stef

[stef]

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[stef]

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[stef]

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