Seeking Advice for Respray and Associated Equip

[taz]

Hi Folks,

I'm about to try respraying my saloon. I have very little experience. I've managed to borrow a decent spray gun and putty gun however I dont think my cheap 2hp compressor is going to be up to the job. I've read some old books at the library suggesting the minimum sized compressor would be 17CFM and another reference suggested 10CFM. I guess to a certain extent, it comes down to whether your prepared to put up with pauses whilst the compressor recharges. Is this a real problem? Does it effect the quality of the job or just make it slower?

Also, I'm thinking of keeping the same color (Arden Green) so that I wont have to work in the internals as much. I was thinking of using acrylic as it seems the least risky approach. I was also thinking of leaving the doors on during the respray.

Any advice greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Taz

[glennr]

I used a small compressor when I resprayed my MK1 Cortina in Goodwood Green. I used a small compressor to a apply what was then called filler primer, gave it a guide coat then flatted it down for preperation for a top coat. The compressor was totally useless but I got the top coat on but the finish was dull. I then flat and polished it and it really came up a treat! I used cellulose. I would really try to hire a decent compressor though. It would be very brave to take on this job if you have no experience at painting.Make sure you read up on the subject if you do. Phil is right about the cellulose/acrylic paints being easier to work with particularly if you are air drying. Don't attempt to paint with two pack products unless you have the correct facilities as these products if not used right can/will seriously damage your health. Then you have to get the spray pattern right, the thinning of the paint Why not talk to your local hire shops for advice regarding the compressor?

Tip: If you are painting in a garage wear a mask and keep it well ventilated. I also wet the floor (not soaked) all around and under the car as this reduced the amount of dust that can get whipped up whilst spraying.

[Phil Nottingham]

It depends on the spray gun as to the compressor size required and also the paint. A 2HP one of approx 8 CFM will be OK with cellulose and acrylic although it will have to work hard to keep up. The paint has to be thinned well. I used a SIP 2025 for years. Its still going now although I have a much larger larger one which runs air-tools better

Solvent based Acrylic/cellulose is the best for DIY use as mistakes are easier to rectify and no harmful fumes are let off.

[Smallfry]

No harmful fumes from cellulose or acrylic ?

[Phil Nottingham]

Harmful as in deadly poisonous as with two pack

[dorsetflyer]

Forget about compressors etc there is an electric spray gun which will give as good a result as the professional compressor spray gun and it costs less the £100.
This was reviewed in 'Practical Classics' some time ago and I will try and find the details and post the results, unless someone else also remembers it and gives the details before I can look them up.

[Kev]

Whats needed is a HVLP (high volume low pressure) spray gun and small compressor made by Earlex (i think).

if you look in a Machine Mart mag or on line you will find various models all around the £70 mark,complete.

Very good for hobby/occasional use and good enough for blowing in car panels.

Big Kev.

[taz]

Many thanks for your help folks,

I will have a look at the HVLP options but as a backup a mate on mine has been kind enough to lend me his 3hp 10CFM (free air delivery) compressor if I need it.

I've started stripping the old girl down - my fridge magnet test has indicated that I have at least 3 previous repaired sections, one of which is in a sill. And I've been told to expect to find 3 times as must rust as what can be seen from the outside - so it should be interesting as I uncover her old wounds

Thanks again,
Cheers,
Taz

[Phil Nottingham]

If there one one thing P5's excelled in is the ability to rust in every possible place! The reason for this being the complete lack of seam sealing of sometimes 4 lapped spotwelded joints and no primer dipping of the body. The asbestos(!) based Bitac underseal often made matters worse as it was too inflexible on said joints which move very slightly and crack it letting in moisture. It fortunate that there is plenty of thick steel in excessive amounts to decay merrily away for years unseen without any compromise to the structure safety.

A FAD of 10 CFM should be quite adequate to spray Acrylic