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Post by thermalwarrior on Jul 30, 2017 8:18:15 GMT
The Front Bushes on the Torsion Bar's need replacing, due to them failing the MOT.
Is it just a case of removing the castle Nut, removing the old Bushes and replacing them or is it more complex than just doing that.
Thank You in anticipation
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 30, 2017 8:29:09 GMT
You will have to release the tension on the suspension by freeing the bottom ball joint! The procedure is well explained in the Workshop manual.
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Post by enigmas on Jul 30, 2017 10:34:23 GMT
The Front Bushes on the Torsion Bar's need replacing, due to them failing the MOT. Is it just a case of removing the castle Nut, removing the old Bushes and replacing them or is it more complex than just doing that. Thank You in anticipation It sounds so straight forward when it's put like that. Undo the nut and slip in a fresh bush. I wish! If that bush is gone so are others. The ball joints upper and lower would probably also benefit from a clean, regrease, adjustment and new boots. It would be advisable IMHO to take a good look at all the bushes and replace any that are suspect, otherwise you'll be revisiting the front suspension sooner, rather than later.
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Post by thermalwarrior on Jul 30, 2017 12:05:24 GMT
Thank You John, I have got to renew the Boot on the lower ball Joint.
There was a leak from the power steering which has rotted the Boot and the Bush, and the other side Is also in a bad state. So the Ball Joint has got to be released to renew the boot.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 30, 2017 14:27:30 GMT
It is just undoing a lot of nuts & bolts in the correct order so is I suppose "straight forward" as long as the torsion bar tension is released fully and you can press out the old bushes and press the new ones in again. The more you have done the easier it becomes but can be deadly if done wrongly
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Post by lagain on Jul 30, 2017 20:18:18 GMT
When you have every thing apart check the upper ball joints for movement, wear can be hidden until the linkage is removed.
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Post by nz on Jul 30, 2017 21:35:37 GMT
If you're meaning the bush in the housing that has the 3 x 9/16" headed bolts with lock tabs and the big 15/16' headed castellated nut, then after undoing the nut and 3 bolts, the housing can slide off, if a suitable lever 'bends' the torsion bar enough. It's hardly got to 'bend' 1/16" to allow the housing to slide off. I had mine off last week, and that's how I did it. Car jacked up under the front X member. That bush is the one affected by p/steer fluid leaks.
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Post by djm16 on Jul 30, 2017 22:20:53 GMT
I recommend releasing as much tension as you can in the torsion bar before undoing anything. The adjuster is at the rear end of the torsion bar.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 31, 2017 7:51:26 GMT
If you're meaning the bush in the housing that has the 3 x 9/16" headed bolts with lock tabs and the big 15/16' headed castellated nut, then after undoing the nut and 3 bolts, the housing can slide off, if a suitable lever 'bends' the torsion bar enough. It's hardly got to 'bend' 1/16" to allow the housing to slide off. I had mine off last week, and that's how I did it. Car jacked up under the front X member. That bush is the one affected by p/steer fluid leaks. Yes you can do it that way and wedge the torsion bar but I believe the bottom joint Boot needs replacing, it's a good time to check top Ball joint and other Bushes with the suspension released.
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Post by thermalwarrior on Aug 1, 2017 16:03:21 GMT
Thank you, on the one side I have got to renew the lower Ball Joint Boot, so will have to do it the long way, but the other side I can give it a try this way.
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Post by thermalwarrior on Aug 1, 2017 16:09:57 GMT
Thank You for all of the replies and advice. With the help you have given me and the Manual, Once I get the Parts, I am ready to tackle it. I just hope that I have used enough WD40 to help loosen all of the Nuts and Bolts
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 1, 2017 17:20:50 GMT
Agree totally,WD40 is next to useless as a freeing off oil. Proper stuff like plus gas works so much better.I used to like the graphited stuff that 3 in 1 made a few years back too, but haven't seen any about for a long time. For really well rusted nuts and bolts a long term soak in diesel seems to work and apparently molasses are effective in loosening rust. I think most people have their own favourites,my old man (an old time engineer) was a firm believer in vinegar (makes sense,a mild acid,probably why some like Coca Cola)
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Post by Eric R on Aug 1, 2017 19:18:16 GMT
I didnt think that WD40 was meant to be a freeing agent - after all WD stands for Water Displacement and 40th formula?
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Post by enigmas on Aug 1, 2017 21:47:03 GMT
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2017 10:08:17 GMT
Interesting read,and as WD40 now own 3 in 1 that's presumably why some of their products are no longer seen,having been incorporated in the WD40 range. Having said that I have no doubt that EU regulations have done their fair share of product removal,Dum dum being one of them.Apparently if you eat a tin of it a polar bear will die or something like that. I have to do my bushes one day soon,the P5 series torsion bars might be dangerous but the P6 front springs are even more so,I know two people who've been hurt by them and apparently they are by no means alone.
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Post by enigmas on Aug 2, 2017 12:27:26 GMT
Well Kev, working on cars can be dangerous if you don't undertake tasks with due care as you well know, but it does provide a degree of satisfaction...even if you don't get it right first time. As for Dum Dum and polar bears..that should now be coming to a slow conclusion. It's always worthwhile IMHO being in control of your own destiny and fixing your own stuff even if there's a degree of risk involved.
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Post by Warwick on Aug 2, 2017 13:04:59 GMT
... and apparently molasses are effective in loosening rust. ... I can certainly attest to the effectiveness of molasses in removing rust by immersing the item in it. It's particularly useful for heavily rusted large objects, such as leaf springs or suspension arms. It's available very cheaply as a stockfeed supplement from places like hay & grain stores and farm supplies. You dilute it about 10:1 with water, fully immerse the item, and just leave it for weeks or even months. The rust dissolves, the steel is unaffected, and after you wash it off you are left with a surface ready to paint.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2017 17:04:40 GMT
A pal of mine sells statues.He bought some relatively modern ones and was told to paint them with yogurt and leave them outside for a few weeks,apparently they then get a special patina that makes them look much older. He spent an afternoon crawling about the garden with a bowl of yogurt and a paint brush painting the statues which he'd arranged in a row on the lawn. Unfortunately when he finished he realised his bassett hound had spent most of the time a few feet behind him,licking it all back off. I purchased a bottle of rust remover this morning,its used diluted with water as a 10% solution.The label gives the active ingredients as Oxalic acid and Phosphorus acid. It was cheap a solution of 2.5 litres would cost £1..00p. I'm going to try it out and see what happens.
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denis
Rover Rookie
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Post by denis on Aug 2, 2017 18:45:07 GMT
Hi all, can anyone tell me where i can get front torsion bar to link pin bushes from as J R W are closed until the 14th of August.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 2, 2017 22:00:09 GMT
Roverpart on Ebay had them assuming you do not mean the Antiroll bar rubbers
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Post by Warwick on Aug 2, 2017 23:21:58 GMT
... paint them with yogurt and leave them outside for a few weeks,apparently they then get a special patina that makes them look much older. ... They do the same thing to large clean rocks that are added to a garden as a feature. It encourages the growth of lichen and moss.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Aug 3, 2017 2:42:53 GMT
... and apparently molasses are effective in loosening rust. ... I can certainly attest to the effectiveness of molasses in removing rust by immersing the item in it. It's particularly useful for heavily rusted large objects, such as leaf springs or suspension arms. It's available very cheaply as a stockfeed supplement from places like hay & grain stores and farm supplies. You dilute it about 10:1 with water, fully immerse the item, and just leave it for weeks or even months. The rust dissolves, the steel is unaffected, and after you wash it off you are left with a surface ready to paint. I was at a mates place when he pulled his heavily rusted Model T parts out of a big tub of Molasses. They were spotless when rinsed but started to rust on the surface before our eyes.
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Post by Warwick on Aug 3, 2017 2:54:19 GMT
They do the same thing to large clean rocks that are added to a garden as a feature. It encourages the growth of lichen and moss. Actually, I think it's just milk they paint on rocks.
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Post by thermalwarrior on Aug 5, 2017 18:11:05 GMT
They do the same thing to large clean rocks that are added to a garden as a feature. It encourages the growth of lichen and moss. Actually, I think it's just milk they paint on rocks. How did we go from Torsion Bar Bushes to milk on Rocks Thanks to everyone for their answers and ideas concerning the Bushes even those on making things look old down to cleaning rusty parts with molasses
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Post by Warwick on Aug 6, 2017 8:07:52 GMT
I just wanted to make it absolutely crystal clear. If you want some nice simulated patina on any part of your P5, be it the suspension or the interior, DO NOT paint it with yoghurt, or milk! They're ONLY to be used on statues and rocks.
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