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Post by thermalwarrior on Aug 10, 2017 13:51:52 GMT
The "Bits" arrived, so over the past two days, I have been trying to release the lower Ball Joint. I have followed the instructions in the Manual, removed and undone what needs to be done. It then said in the Manual, give the housing on the Stub Axle, for the Ball Joint, a sharp tap, this will release the Ball Joint. No it won't I have given it a lot more sharp Taps than 1 but it still will not Budge I have used a small jack to put pressure on the top of the Ball Joint, similar to a Ball Joint extractor would, but still no movement. Any Ideas would be gratefully accepted. I have tried Milk and Yoghurt without any success
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 10, 2017 14:53:03 GMT
You will need 2 hammers a THOR one ie Club hammer held tight on one side and a big hammer giving it some on the other side!! Don't try clouting the nut on the thread it will distort if Thor's Hammer fails you may need some heat!! Good Luck I hope it moves?
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Aug 10, 2017 16:44:08 GMT
The twin hammer system worked for me a couple of years ago as advised by John.
I admit I was sceptical but percussion shock wave really is the answer.
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Post by Warwick on Aug 14, 2017 8:59:51 GMT
An easier method is to use a very heavy hammer and hold it firmly against the side, and then hit the object on the opposite side with the other hammer. This is easier than trying to hit opposite sides with 2 hammers simultaneously. The purpose of the second hammer in both instances, is to convert all of the energy from the moving hammer/s into the shock that momentarily distorts the struck object. None of it is wasted in moving the struck object sideways, or potentially damaging it by a sideways jolt. To do this by swinging 2 hammers is tricky as both must land at the same time. By using a big heavy hammer or object against the opposite side, you're effectively using it as an anvil, and we understand why they work. They're so heavy, they can't move when struck.
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Post by thermalwarrior on Sept 12, 2017 15:41:38 GMT
Sorry for the delay in updating, I have been in Ireland for 3 weeks. The Mother in Law (95) was not very well.
Because I had to renew the boot on one of the bottom Ball Joints, I was able to try both methods and although both were more or less straight forward, I found that splitting the Ball Joint and track rod end and removing the Bolt from the bottom of the shock absorber, was longer but easier. I did need a 4kg hammer to release the lower ball Joint.
Undoing the 3 Tabbed Nuts on the other side was also straight forward, but needed a crow Bar (Pry Bar) and a certain amount of brute strength also 3 Hands would of been useful.
I pushed the old bushes out using a vice and small and Large socket. I greased the new bushes with silicon Grease and used the vice to push them into position. The mistake I made, was to push them through so that an equal amount was showing on either side of the bracket. This makes it very difficult to line up the three holes for the tab bolts.
I found that if you push the bush through towards the back of the bracket and leave it level with the back of the bracket it is a lot easier to fit the Bolts. Then by tightening the Castle nut and big washer, it will push the bush into position.
The Good News is BEG 933 passed the MOT last Friday and although far from finished and needing a tune up (5 miles on 4 litres is not good) at least we can use the car on the Road, after 10 years 9 of which sitting in a field.
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