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Post by ozriderp5 on Aug 15, 2017 8:20:57 GMT
Hi Guys I have an alternator fitted as per below, it appears to be a GM with built in regulator. As it stands now it pretty much runs to the starter solenoid and the ignition switch How should my wiring be run to the Ammeter and then onto the ignition light and ignition switch? Any help appreciated.  |
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Post by enigmas on Aug 15, 2017 8:35:57 GMT
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Post by ozriderp5 on Aug 15, 2017 9:12:37 GMT
Thanks Vince, but it's not a 1 wire, has 2 terminals. (changed the pic to a better one) |
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Post by enigmas on Aug 15, 2017 11:46:38 GMT
How about this diagram.  |
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Post by ozriderp5 on Aug 15, 2017 20:46:21 GMT
Thanks Vince, where would I put the Ammeter?
Before the Ignition light from the Alternator or on the battery lead before the ignition switch?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 15, 2017 21:47:43 GMT
The P5 ammeter at 30A will not take the extra current in some instances it will need replacing with a shunted 60A version which can be had to exactly fit in place of the standard P5 if you use a P5B one.
The ammeter must go in series with all the none starter load the car electrics - a good starting point is at the starter solenoid cables which must all be detached apart and linked to the Ammeter or its shunt. Then another heavy cable goes to the solenoid from the other ammeter terminal. Voltmeters are a safer and more useful bet with high output alternators. Do not connect anything to the warning light or ignition switch to do with an ammeter
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Post by enigmas on Aug 15, 2017 23:16:21 GMT
Here's another diagram outlining how the ammeter should be wired in....there's also one in my first post to you Oz (the last link). www.classicinstruments.com/userfiles/files/Manuals/Amp%20Gauge%20Installation%20012313.pdfDo you know the output of that GM alternator? If it's anywhere near 60 amps or over fit a volt gauge as Phil suggests or look for an older style alternater (Ford or Holden from the 60s-80s) with a lower output. (45 amps is plenty even with halogen headlights. This is what is fitted to my MK3 but with a modern rated 60 amp gauge in place of the standard OEM unit). |
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Post by ozriderp5 on Aug 16, 2017 5:39:03 GMT
I've bypassed the ammeter all together and reconnected the wires, I'll fit a Volt Gauge instead. Rewired the Alternator with new wires. There must have been some dodgy wiring as it is now charging and Ignition light is working. The LED red light stayed on when the engine starts, I tried an original old style bulb and that worked fine. I'll replace the LED as soon as I get a new light Light needs to be wired with positive to the ignition and Negative to the Alternator, when the engine starts the Alternator will feed the bulb 12v as well and the bulb will go out. I think the resistance in the bulb also sets the alternator to charge.  |
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Post by ozriderp5 on Aug 19, 2017 21:22:27 GMT
After getting all this sorted the voltage was showing high, I figured it was just trying to recharge the battery and thought it would settle. Checked again yesterday and the voltage was running at 16v  . I went back through everything but found nothing. I was about to head out and buy a new Alternator as my wife come home from work. I thought I'd just rule out my multimeter so I got her to pop the bonnet. Her car also showed 16v...... A quick dig through a cupboard and I found an old multimeter from 20 years back, put a new battery in it and tested again, actual readings are 13.2v on both cars, well within normal limits. A new Multimeter will be a lot cheaper than a new alternator, glad I checked.  |
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. I went back through everything but found nothing.