Door seal and boot seal adhesive recommendations please.

[Simon H]

The title of the post just about sums it up. I guess that an Evostick contact type of adhesive will do for the doors but the boot seal seems to be a different arrangement and needs to be push fitted (and stuck) onto a lip. I am also looking at an industrial double sided adhesive tape made by TESA that we use at work for the door seals. It is mega strong and in our application spends it's working life sticking foam rubber dies to S/S cylinders that dip into water based glue about 250,000 times per 8 hour shift.

[lagain]

I did write an article about this for the magazine a few years ago. I would not use a contact adhesive as there is no room for error.
I cannot remember exactly what I did, but I think that I used Araldite around the window frames and superglue around the doors.
It is a time consuming job. Apply the Araldite to the rubber, a section of the frame each time and then fit the rubber and keep smothing it untill the glue has set, otherwise it will not lay evenly. I then used superglue for the thicker sections around the doors, once again a short section at a time. Try not to cut the corners on the window frames, it is very difficult to cut them correctly.
You need to check that the rubber does not catch on the 'B' post. With the button pushed in, 'close' the door.
I think that I used superglue on the boot seal. If you have several sheets of newspaper on each corner, push the lid down and ease the newspaper out to help form the corner. Then leave the boot closed for as long as possible.

[richardlamsdale]

When I did my doors I found I only needed adhesive at the very bottom - the channel in the stainless sections (mine's a coupe) and elsewhere kept the seal in place. They've been fine for the last few years. If you buy from Wadhams you get an instruction sheet. I used Evo-Stick on the bottom section, which seemed to work well.

[Steed]

Thanks, that's good to know, as I have a coupe too.

[davewright]

I bought a 5 litre tin of contact adhesive from Toolstation. Very good price and still have quite a bit left. There was not problem with repositioning as it does not dry instantly like super glue but does dry quick enough that the start of the run does not lift as you work you way around. Remember not to fit the foam bits at the bottom of the doors as they just rot the metal.

[Steed]

...more good advice, thanks Dave.

Andy

[tarnowl]

In an effort to place this question under ‘bodywork’ I have put it under Channels and seal adhesive, but it’s really about the channel.
I have a question about the door seal channels at the bottom of the doors as I have reached this point on my major renovation of my P5B Coupe.
From the photos below you can see that the bottom of the rear doors need to be repaired.  I am questioning about if my channels have been modified before in your opinion, as the part of the channel that curves in the photo appears to be a ‘L’ shape, or half channel.  Is this as manufactured or has it already rotted off?

Attachment Deleted

[johnwp5bcoupe]

Hi Peter these are easily made your bodywork guy will soon make them

[tarnowl]

Hi John,
I was just wondering if the channel was meant to be like that originally? ( ie. ‘L’ shaped on the curve?). It is the bodywork chap who is asking.

[johnwp5bcoupe]

Yes Peter they have a curve