Positive to negative switcheroo. Did you do it?

[stan]

Hi I know this topic crops up once in a while but has anyone actually done it successfully here?

Mine is a Mk2 so positive earth but thinking about cross dressing over to negative earth and join the last century.

Did it go well? Just flick the battery cable over, flash the (f connector? On dynamo to repolarize,) ammeter and thats it? No need for starter motor switch over?

Trouble is I spent a fortune on positive earth side and tail LED lights, which are probably useless if I change over but then a working radio with all mod cons and no crackle or fizz, is worth the cost?

[Phil Nottingham]

Dead easy if you really need to and no real need to flash the dynamo as in 9 out of 10 times it will self-polarise. You do need to swap the ammeter and coil connections but nothing else, unless you have Coupe with a working rev counter as that, will need rebuilding plus any electronic stuff incl SU or Facet pumps

[stan]

Jun 28, 2018 17:15:19 GMT Phil Nottingham said:

Dead easy if you really need to and no real need to flash the dynamo as in 9 out of 10 times it will self-polarise. You do need to swap the ammeter and coil connections but nothing else, unless you have Coupe with a working rev counter as that, will need rebuilding plus any electronic stuff incl SU or Facet pumps

Thanks Phil. Sorry so I need to swap fuel pumps connection over for the SU pump too?

[enigmas]

Truly Stan...the pump (points type) doesn't care unless it's an electronic version of the SU and is polarity sensitive. The clock may be an issue although the clock in my ZB Magnette didn't care as it's pre-modern circuitry...no diodes,capacitors or transistors internally.

It's one of the best things you can do as you are now able to wire in small USB power take offs for mobile phones,GPS, Ipod, android tablet and the like. You can even wire in a programmable ignition system now that you have negative Earth/Ground if so inclined. With the advances in LED technology you can upgrade the lights (more lumens/brighter) and still retain your generator...that will now have a lighter load imposed on it and will manage nicely.

[stan]

Jun 29, 2018 0:29:34 GMT enigmas said:

Truly Stan...the pump (points type) doesn't care unless it's an electronic version of the SU and is polarity sensitive. The clock may be an issue although the clock in my ZB Magnette didn't care as it's pre-modern circuitry...no diodes,capacitors or transistors internally.

It's one of the best things you can do as you are now able to wire in small USB power take offs for mobile phones,GPS, Ipod, android tablet and the like. You can even wire in a programmable ignition system now that you have negative Earth/Ground if so inclined. With the advances in LED technology you can upgrade the lights (more lumens/brighter) and still retain your generator...that will now have a lighter load imposed on it and will manage nicely.

Thanks for the advice. Ok then next job on the cards after the new exhaust this weekend.

Any photos of the Magnette?😁 I used to run the Wolseley 15/50 version of that car and loved it. Super reliable B series engine and unlike the Rover quite an empty engine bay with easy access. I still kept my Wolseley clock and it actually worked, one of the few in the club that did! Mushrooms used to grow in the rear carpet (due to leaking rear screen rubber and spores in the carpet, bought it from a farmer) happy days.

I have looked at electronic ignition before but I like to keep things old school (points I can fix at the side of a road).

I even considered fuel injection but those single injection Su carb systems are eye watering expensive and there is nothing wrong with the carb on this one. 1 pipe for air , 1 for fuel simple.

Thanks for the advice again I will take my time and hope I dont fry anything, spent long enough making this tank reliable and smooth running dont want to mess it up. 😉