Ammeter reading full -ve when ignition on after polarity swi

[stan]

Thought I would start a seperate topic for this.
I converted the car to negative earth tonight.

The ammeter has 2 sets of wires brown and brown/white connected to double spade connector on back of ammeter. Swapped both sets over so they were the same connection to each other brown to brown , brown/white to brown/white is that correct?

I switched on ignition to do the field wire flash and the ammeter went straight to -30 end of the scale? Any ideas? Usually it just sits in the middle and moves to minus when the pump kicks in?

Disconnected battery and await your advice? Do i need to switch the fuel pump over maybe?

My radio is disconnected and the only other thing I can think of this car was fitted with a tow bar , tow and fridge sockets for a caravan. Because it was positive earth before do you think this might be shorting it somewhere?

I cant hear the pump come on at all normally clicks so wonder if I should disconnect it and see if its the culprit?

The clock works fine still louder than a Rock concert.

Thanks in advance, not progressing much this week with Ralph.

[stan]

I had an idea, disconnected the fuel pump and great ammeter does not flip. So presume I need to find out if its got electronic module in it or points? If i have to flip the wires how does that work? I have 1 black feed to body 2x white (i think?) wires to each end?

[stan]

Jul 11, 2018 21:20:15 GMT @dicky said:

There was a certain football match on tonight but it's all over now

Was there? Sorry no idea about stuff like that hence working on the Rover.

Think I fixed it? The field sparks thing never happened? So gave up refitted the cable and trusted Phils advice.

Removed fuel pump and realised it was isolated from the body which I vaugley remembered from my Wolseley days? Anyway refitted with new insulation tightened it all up ( everything on this car has been loose!) Battery on, ignition on? Ooh no issues ok started it , fired up after a few seconds, then ammeter went mad again, quick engine off and battery disconnected.
Gave the fuel pump a few taps reconnected ignition on oooh fuel pumps and no Ammeter madness? Engine ran but not charging, then ammeter went mad then stopped then now charges and unless its my imagination but I am certain the engine sounds better more powerful?
Ran it for a few mins tested the reserve pump and wham ammeter again, so switched back. I think the problem is the fuel pump needs the points cleaning properly as reserve never worked. At least its boggo points and not electronic.

Phew! Now to get the radio refitted and see how that goes.

[Phil Nottingham]

No it needs the Diode inside the cap swapping round if it has one or remove it. If its a capacitor it should work with or without it. 


If is electronic you will need a new circuit board.  Do not swap the White and Black connections over.  Black remains the EARTH to the bodywork and the pump case

[Phil Nottingham]

Post overlapped - service the pump!  Dyno clearly self-polarised as they often do!

[stan]

Jul 11, 2018 21:48:04 GMT Phil Nottingham said:

Post overlapped - service the pump!  Dyno clearly self-polarised as they often do!

Thanks Phil.

[stan]

Jul 11, 2018 22:30:31 GMT @dicky said:

Stan,I don't quite know what to make of you.I think you are a bit of a joker tbh.

Lifes too short to be too serious Dicky 😀 thats why I choose to drive a 53 year old car in day to day traffic and then spend my evenings faffing with it, beats watching telly all night.😉

[enigmas]

Jul 11, 2018 21:45:22 GMT Phil Nottingham said:

No it needs the Diode inside the cap swapping round if it has one or remove it. If its a capacitor it should work with or without it. 


If is electronic you will need a new circuit board.  Do not swap the White and Black connections over.  Black remains the EARTH to the bodywork and the pump case

I can see that you're getting a headache here Phil!