tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
|
Post by tonys on Dec 19, 2018 21:59:24 GMT
I think that's a fair comment and I've seen reference to it before; as you say, each to their own.
|
|
|
Post by Brendan69 on Dec 20, 2018 16:59:54 GMT
Braided hoses are the best thing you can put on any car when it comes to brakes. F1 cars have them so they are good enough for mine.
You will normally find those who knock em have never even tried em before.
Ive had another busy day on my P5B again. LOL.
1. Refurbished the radiator fan guard and applied new labels 2. Cleaned out the drivers side rear wheel arch of light dirt and then fully waxoiled/painted it out as with the drivers side sill area too. Rock solid. 3. Cleaned and painted my exhaust middle box silver to match the rear box.
Looks like at some point in time a black plastic bag has managed to get caught on the exhaust pipe from the Y junction to the centre box so i'll have to try and scrape it off if I can.
Tomorrow will be my last day on it and then I am deffo down tools until after xmas. LOL
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by lagain on Dec 20, 2018 20:51:37 GMT
I was reading about brake hoses recently, and some people believe braided hoses are a bad idea as the braiding hides any cracking or ageing from being spotted. Each to their own as always, but I went with a standard set when I replaced mine this year. The most important thing is to change them. I assumed that the Goodridge braided hoses were braided metal with no rubber - similar to the flexible hose on my shower, am I wrong ? is there rubber inside ?
|
|
tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
|
Post by tonys on Dec 20, 2018 21:30:49 GMT
As far as I'm aware braided hoses aren't actually rubber hoses internally but another, more resilient material, wrapped in braided stainless steel, which itself is generally, but not always, covered for further protection.
I've heard the argument that any internal degradation can't be seen and, technically, that's true, however, the material isn't rubber and is far less likely to degrade. Having said that, I haven't sliced one open to have a look. Another advantage of braided hoses is their ability to withstand higher pressures than rubber without bulging etc etc..
It's not a dissimilar situation to silicon coolant hoses v. the original rubber hoses. Personal choice.
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Dec 20, 2018 22:51:00 GMT
My coupe is fitted with a full set of 'legal' (in OZ, Victoria) braided brake lines. They were custom fabricated at a brake shop to match the original brake line fittings. They comprise a synthetic inner liner, outer braided stainless sheath, encapsulated within a clear synthetic weather protection cover. Both ends are swaged. Rally/race car versions do not have swaged end fittings and can be disassembled. This type are illegal in Victoria on road registered cars. These flexible lines will not balloon under heavy braking and provide a firmer pedal than the OEM versions. NB. Never use brake hose clamps on this type of line. Front brake hoses. Rear brake hoses.
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Dec 21, 2018 5:28:36 GMT
... I assumed that the Goodridge braided hoses were braided metal with no rubber - similar to the flexible hose on my shower, am I wrong ? is there rubber inside ? Yes and no George. No, they aren't just braided metal, as explained by the others, and yes, they are similar to the hose on your shower in so far as that also has a flexible synthetic tube inside it.
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Dec 21, 2018 8:36:58 GMT
It all comes down to choice and common sense whatever you use check "all" the braking system regularly! how many guys take their drums off to check at least once a year I am happy using standard hoses as I do check them and for me are adequate for the job. I am not "knocking" braided hoses I have used them on my other car a 25 year old CRX its a bit quicker than my coupe!
|
|
|
Post by Brendan69 on Dec 21, 2018 9:26:24 GMT
They look great enigma's. It is indeed a personal choice at thend of the day what we decide to fit and have on our cars. Both are ok and its not as if we are ragging our P5B's around a track so the OEM type are plenty good enough.
After Xmas I plan to change all my brake lines for new just as a matter of course even though the cars stops perfectly. Ive seen the kit on JRW site, has anyone used this kit recently and is it good in terms of are all the pipes specific to each corner with minimum bending required??The price of the kit is quite reasonable too as it includes flexi hoses.
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by richardlamsdale on Dec 21, 2018 10:38:17 GMT
I've almost finished replacing all my brake lines using the kit from Wadhams. Maybe things have changed but the three flexible hoses were separate items when I bought mine. The quality of the kit is great, being made by Automec. All the pipes are the correct length and have the correct terminations.
The copper pipes are loosely coiled when they arrive, so you just need to straighten them / bend them to shape using the existing pipes as a pattern. You can do this quite easily by hand as the copper is quite flexible and doesn't kink (unless you go crazy on a bend radius), or you can buy tools to do this - I bought them but found it was easier by hand. The original pipes are held to the car using screws and 'saddle clamps', which is neat, but I think some of the pipes on my car were original (steel, not copper) so some of the clamps were tricky to remove. Threading the new pipes around the car isn't exactly easy, especially around the front sub-frame, but it is possible.
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Dec 21, 2018 11:34:05 GMT
I bought all I needed to remake my system I used Kunifer Pipe and bought a second hand Sykes-Picavant flanging tool, Kunifer is much harder than Copper wont rust and wont squash like Copper will if your not careful. The company is a very old family business and really know their stuff www.stevsonmotors.co.uk/Stevson%20Motors%20-%20Homepage.html
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Dec 21, 2018 11:41:56 GMT
My recollection from 45 years ago, when I was working on a Bolwell Mk.7 kit car, that copper brake lines aren't legal in Oz. Can you clarify this, Vince?
I bought similar tools, John. Still have them somewhere.
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Dec 21, 2018 13:07:14 GMT
You're correct Warwick...at least in OZ, Victoria copper brake lines are illegal. Years ago when they were legal I replaced a couple of 'bundy' steel brake lines on my MG Magnette with the copper versions then available. Some time later (in my 20's) one of the copper lines fractured at a union (work hardened through vibration) as I was pulling into a carpark! (The lines were professionally made...and were outlawed no doubt due to the work hardening issue) Both lucky and scary! I replaced the copper brake lines with a 'bundy' steel lines. Like John...I purchased a brake line flaring kit many years ago and personally make the lines to suit my vehicles. A simple process with the correct tools.
|
|
|
Post by richardlamsdale on Dec 21, 2018 14:02:34 GMT
Agreed, Kunifer has advantages over copper, although it's harder to form. Another one of the many things we have make choices about (unless the law makes the decision for you). On the P5 there are two places where work hardening might be an issue as far as I can see: where the pipe from the servo joins the subframe, and where it leaves the subframe to go to the rear axle - Rover formed loops at these points to minimise this, so it's important these are replicated.
If I ever get to drive my car enough for work hardening to be an issue, I'll be happy!
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Dec 21, 2018 15:44:10 GMT
Agreed, Kunifer has advantages over copper, although it's harder to form. Another one of the many things we have make choices about (unless the law makes the decision for you). On the P5 there are two places where work hardening might be an issue as far as I can see: where the pipe from the serv ;)o joins the subframe, and where it leaves the subframe to go to the rear axle - Rover formed loops at these points to minimise this, so it's important these are replicated. If I ever get to drive my car enough for work hardening to be an issue, I'll be happy! Richard there are coils as you say to give the movement required at the rear of the subframe 1 1/2 turns and at the front 1 turn, the old steel pipes never broke
|
|
|
Post by Brendan69 on Dec 21, 2018 18:28:24 GMT
Well ive completed all the preservation work today under each wheel arch corner and they look nice and tidy now and should last another 45 years with the amount ive applied including wax oiling of all those tight crannies. Car is now back on its wheels and off the stands.
I ran her up for another 30 mins checking everything again lights wise etc just in case I had tugged at a cable by accident. All fine.
She does look great sat on her new white band tyres and with new OEM mudflaps fitted too. Have got the 2 door mirrors to fit now and a few other little bits.
I am saving and building myself up to doing the door and boot lid seals which I am NOT looking forward to at all. I think i'll tackle the boot lid seal first.
It will then be a case of polishing the bodywork to death and gently working on that interior trim with my leather care products until I can get it to how I want it. I feel a great sense of achievement with what ive done so far and I think it shows a lot.
Cheers.
|
|
|
Post by lagain on Dec 21, 2018 20:14:03 GMT
They look great enigma's. It is indeed a personal choice at thend of the day what we decide to fit and have on our cars. Both are ok and its not as if we are ragging our P5B's around a track so the OEM type are plenty good enough. After Xmas I plan to change all my brake lines for new just as a matter of course even though the cars stops perfectly. Ive seen the kit on JRW site, has anyone used this kit recently and is it good in terms of are all the pipes specific to each corner with minimum bending required??The price of the kit is quite reasonable too as it includes flexi hoses. Regards, If your car is low mileage and fairly original the brake pipes may be perfectly OK. I changed mine for copper when the engine was rebuilt some 20 years ago. It seemed a good idea at the time as it was easier while the engine and gearbox were out, but there was nothing wrong with the original pipes. It is one of the few things I wished I had left alone.
|
|
|
Post by Brendan69 on Dec 22, 2018 9:22:03 GMT
lagain, I hear what your saying. I would have imagined though with your engine and box out the brake pipes up front would have been quite easy to change over as nothing in the way so to speak.
I will probably start firstly with a gentle clean of the pipes. They are deffo the originals no doubt about it and mostly covered in underseal wax oil from new. If they look ok I will indeed leave them alone BUT I will be changing the flexi pipes for sure either OEM rubber or braided.
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by richardlamsdale on Dec 22, 2018 10:41:48 GMT
I didn't think mine were too bad until I went to fit new hoses. One of the steel pipes (original I assume) just twisted-off, a combination of a corroded pipe and partially seized fittings. It hadn't looked too bad, but was certainly weaker than it should have been. That's when I decided more drastic replacement was needed.
|
|
|
Post by Brendan69 on Dec 22, 2018 19:00:30 GMT
Fitted my 2 Tex door mirrors today. Not the easiest of jobs to do but with lots of care I managed them both albeit im not happy with how they mount with just 2 screws. I think in time I shall remove the door panel and see if I can get 2 nut and bolts in there instead for a more firmer fitment of the mounting plinths. They look good though and at least I can now see down the flanks of the car. I also purchased one of those rear reversing lamp units from JRW which comes complete with new bulbs @ £51 I think. Both my little number plate light bulbs work fine but the reversing lamp does not work so I just bought a new unit as mine was slightly corroded in the bulb holder. Well the bloody thing would not slide back into the lamp lens fully and easily as the old OEM would so I fitted the new gasket and then sort of slightly forced the cover on with the 2 screws and it all did up fine or so I thought!!!. Walked away for a brew and heard a loud crack noise. Went back to look and the bloody glass lens had shattered. I was really peeved off about this and the fact the new light unit did not fit my lens properly. Rang JRW and they are away now until after Xmas so no joy there at all. Had to super glue the lens back togeather and re-fit the old lamp unit so back to square 1 I was. Has anyone else bought this lamp unit from JRW and found it wont fit the glass lens??? I will expect them to replace my lens FOC and also a unit that fits the lens too as ive spent a lot with them this last week so expect the new parts to fit and work ok. I then spent the rest of today polishing my P5B with my autoglym canabu wax and she has come up lovely for original paint. I still have those new boot and door seals to tackle but I will have to work myself up to those. Oh and my new P5 owners club shirt arrived in the post today too which was nice. Regards,
|
|
|
Post by lagain on Dec 22, 2018 19:21:39 GMT
If I remember correctly fitting the new door seals took me about 48 hours. It is not a job to be rushed and best done at a time when you can leave the doors closed for a month or so to 'bed in'
I think that I am correct in saying that the door seals are not made just for the P5, mine from Scotts, were a bit of a compromise which was probably why they took so long to fit and when I wash the Rover I have to be very careful otherwise the water comes in - irritating.
Do one door at a time so that you have the others to refer to and unless it is a right angle corner try to avoid cutting the rubber.
|
|
|
Post by Eric R on Dec 22, 2018 20:43:36 GMT
reverse lamp covers vary in size as they were used on BL vehicles as well. Did you check the part number from Rover manuals?
|
|
|
Post by Brendan69 on Dec 23, 2018 10:15:25 GMT
Great advice lagain. Thanks.
Eric, It was the lamp lens inners I bought from JRW, Not the lamp lens. Evidently some items JRW are having made are NOT 100% accurate fitment. One would think they would test fit first before selling them to folk and I would have absolutely no idea that some lamp lenses were of a different size.
Surely all the P5/P5B lenses are the same??? 59-73 MY's.
Regards,
|
|
|
Post by Brendan69 on Dec 24, 2018 14:44:53 GMT
Today I have given all my door shuts a quick polish and they will get a much deeper clean up when I tackle those door rubber seals.
I also gave my leather seats a good clean with my Autoglym leather cleaner spray and then a light coating of Glyptol leather cream balm. Smells bloody lovely in there now. My drivers seat has the most wear on it albeit not to the point YET where I think I will need a full interior re-trim which I don't really want to do as my P5B has a lovely original Patina inside which I don't wish to lose if I can help it so all I plan to do for now is just keep giving it all a good clean and feed over time.
The sun was out today also and clear skies and I did contemplate taking her for a short run but Joanne said the roads were really grotty so I decided not to and ran her up again for 20 mins instead and listened to a cd on the stereo.
|
|
|
Post by lagain on Dec 24, 2018 19:00:46 GMT
The sun was out today also and clear skies and I did contemplate taking her for a short run but Joanne said the roads were really grotty so I decided not to and ran her up again for 20 mins instead and listened to a cd on the stereo. At the risk of offending, it is not a good idea to start her up if you are not going anywhere. To gain benefit from starting she needs to run for a couple of hours. Starting the engine causes condensation in the exhaust and the engine oil, as well as sooting up the plugs. Years ago I used a motorbike for commuting 2 miles a day. It had a sight glass for the oil level and after a week or so it was white, due to condensation mixing with the oil. I last run my engine towards the end of October when I lay her up and then start her in March and she always starts first time, after some churning ! What most of us do after a lay up is to leave the choke pushed in and churn the starter until the oil pressure starts to rise, then pull the choke out and off she goes, there is a very remote possibility that during the winter the oil may have drained back into the filter, leaving the pump empty. It has only happened to me once and I had the correct GFE 145 oil filter. It then means re-packing the pump with petroleum jelly (vaselene).
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Dec 24, 2018 22:34:18 GMT
That is the very reason we use all our classics throughout the year. Just got back home tonight in our P5B. Not good really frosty and foggy but no gritters! Went out Saturday evening in the Coupe = nice evening with dry roads.
Of course, this does have its downside on rust although both cars were damp when driven out the garage. My driving days are numbered and our annual mileage is reducing by the year so I am taking full advantage whilst I still can enjoy it
|
|