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Post by Brendan69 on Jan 26, 2019 14:04:49 GMT
Had mine running up on the drive again this morning just to check all was well with the new installation and it was. I still need to take her for a drive though but only when the roads are dry again. It bloody rained on her so she got wet but ive cleaned her all off which she needed anyway after all the recent works ive done and she is nice and shiny again. Just need a decent dry day or 2 now so I can get the engine bay cleaned as its not too good in there. Just years of dust and grime need cleaning off to reveal the lovely Admiralty Blue paint.
Once ive got the engine bay to a standard I can live with and keep on top of I will then set about removing items in turn, brackets etc and getting them re-done in fresh paint. I am still undecided on weather to buy 2 of those conical K&N filters to sit on the inlets or just leave the standard airbox in place with the new filters inside ive just fitted. Maybe have it all painted up nice instead.
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tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
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Post by tonys on Jan 26, 2019 14:19:08 GMT
If it was mine, which it isn't , and the air filters were new or virtually new, I'd probably just leave them as they are and repaint the filter housing if it needed it. I've no experience of K&N filters on a P5B, but I have used them on a twin-Weber carb set-up on a Caterham, and there was a good induction 'sound'. Whether they were any more efficient than normal filters, I've no idea. I'm aware of the advertised benefits but I fitted them primarily because they looked better, IMHO, than the filter that was fitted originally. It sounded more powerful and 'throaty', but whether it was actualy more efficient, who knows. The question for me would be whether they'd create additional induction noise on the P5B and, if they did, whether that was something I wanted. It's a personal choice, obviously; perhaps if I saw/heard them on a P5B, I might think otherwise.
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Post by GlennR on Jan 26, 2019 22:55:54 GMT
I sorted out my rear number plate lol.
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Post by Brendan69 on Jan 27, 2019 10:41:06 GMT
Indeed yes Tony albeit I have been using the K&N air filters in all my cars now for over 30 years and YES they do indeed make a difference. Trust me I know and ive seen and felt the differences they make compared to standard bog roll paper element filters.
For about 15 years K&N used to sponsor me with their product on my fast ford cars I used to own and show albeit like I mentioned I have always had them on all my cars even to this day on my Aston Martin and my Jap import day van Nissan Elgrand Rider.
I was first introduced to them by a friend of the family who was working in a well known F1 team and still is to this day 40 years later and he said pretty much all F1 cars run with them fitted so I was hooked and ive never looked back ever. I don't want to replace my standard air box if I can help it TBH and I don't want to have those style K&N's which just sit on the carb inlets either like you see on the Land Rovers but I was sent a picture of a K&N equivilent on here the other week but sadly they are no longer available and looked as thought they would have just slotted in to the P5B airbox nicely. Shame.
I have bought a new OEM pair of air filters which are now fitted so i'll see how they feel for now. I may send off one of my old filters to K&N and see if they can replicate it which is something they have done for me in the past with my Bentley RT I used to own and she sounded awesome after fitting them with a lovely induction sucking roar.
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 15, 2019 16:56:16 GMT
Took full advantage of todays sunshine. Pushed the Rover out on to the driveway and very gently cleaned my engine bay with autoglym engine cleaner, a soft brush to manipulate it and a small watering can with HOT water in to rinse off. I am so impressed by the results and I now have a very clean engine bay. Still some work to do in there VERY DEEP clean wise but at least I am no longer embarrassed to open my bonnet. Dried it all off with my air line and left it in the sunshine to bake dry.
Started her up for the first time in nearly 3 weeks and run her up till warm and tested both heaters again. All nice and warm and working fine. Dressed the engine with silicoon spray and fitted the airbox etc. Happy days.
Onto the next job now I suppose. LOL
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Post by barryr on Feb 15, 2019 23:50:55 GMT
I've spent the evening also in the engine bay - having removed my leaky brake servo I found a lot of paint damage and rust from years of leaks. I've been tidying and painting which also meant a fair amount of degreasing too!
Not long until I can return the loom and components and get a new servo in. I'll replace the last 2 steel brake pipes while I'm there as well!
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 16, 2019 9:51:31 GMT
Good work Barry, I have also bought a new brake pipe kit from JRW along with 3 new flexi pipes too which I plan to get done soon. No leaks in my system thank god and she brakes straight and true too which is good along with a good strong handbrake also. Last owner had her well looked after.
How was the changing of the front end brake pipes like for room/space etc??
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Post by OlafR on Feb 18, 2019 16:45:19 GMT
very gently cleaned my engine bay with autoglym engine cleaner, a soft brush to manipulate it and a small watering can with HOT water in to rinse off. I am so impressed by the results and I now have a very clean engine bay. Never heard of Autoglym before. I saw that there's even a bunch of YT-videos that show you how to apply it. Doesn't sound too bad, but since the marketing always claims perfect results, I'm not so sure. I spent quite a bit of time with cleaning my engine bay last year, with - shall I say - heterogeneous success. I used a good mixture of several liquids and various brushes, amongst them mainly Ballistol oil, silicone remover and the odd bit of brake cleaner for the very stubborn parts. Can't say that I'm happy with it as of yet ... Still some work to do in there VERY DEEP clean wise but at least I am no longer embarrassed to open my bonnet. Pictures, we want pictures!
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 18, 2019 19:12:58 GMT
Olafr, I would love to be able to post up pictures of my pride and joy but this re-sizing lark is too much of a PITA for me to bother with. I have no issues at all posting pictures up on my other forums I use.
Regards,Brendan
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Post by barryr on Feb 18, 2019 20:49:23 GMT
Fiddly in places but I've certainly worked on worse!
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Post by enigmas on Feb 18, 2019 21:03:24 GMT
Simply use this site postimages.org/ to upload photos (its free and very user friendly) then access the appropriate link. A few clicks on 'share' then choose 'direct link' and post it directly into your text (on a fresh line) using the insert image tool (the picture of the scenery above the text box your typing in). I've been using it for years now on multiple tech boards & forums. Note: There's no issues with resizing as your linking the image from 'postimages.org' to this forum's server.
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Post by Warwick on Feb 19, 2019 3:23:43 GMT
Olafr, I would love to be able to post up pictures of my pride and joy but this re-sizing lark is too much of a PITA for me to bother with. I have no issues at all posting pictures up on my other forums I use. Regards,Brendan Brendan, the difference is that storage space on this forum is paid for by the P5 Club and to increase that capacity, the club has to pay more for it. Unfortunately, only a very small proportion of forum users are club members. The club generously makes its forum available to anyone, anywhere, who is interested in the P5. This has its advantages of course, because closed forums have a much more limited readership, and so the exchange of knowledge is also quite limited. But there is a limit to what a relatively small and narrowly focussed club can afford to spend.
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 19, 2019 10:23:10 GMT
I am a member of both buddy and to be honest I just expected to get more out of being a " paid " member. Just my point of view that's all.
I wont go into the politics of it all again albeit the solution to this issue is very very simple IMHOP. Cheers
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Post by Warwick on Feb 19, 2019 11:11:01 GMT
Sorry Brendan, I wasn't suggesting that you weren't contributing financially, or technically. Just that it is a fairly small club, relative to many others with an internet presence and a worldwide reach. I'm also not suggesting that those who aren't club members aren't pulling their weight. There are a lot of non-members who are very valuable contributors to this forum. I think it works very well, and it's a credit to David, Phil, and John, who juggle the whole thing. Please reconsider following Vince's suggestion, as you're also one of the valuable contributors and it would be a shame if we can't also benefit from your photos.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Feb 19, 2019 12:00:59 GMT
There are loads of Club Members who don't use the forum and loads of Forum Members around the world who aren't club members who make valuable contributions to this forum and long may it be so (an open forum) plus they have no problem uploading/downloading pictures from a hosting site for all of us to benefit from
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 19, 2019 15:43:21 GMT
Took mine out today in the sunshine and dry roads of Swindon and filled her up with petrol ( super unleaded ) 40 litres in total along with 2 x 20ml shots of lead additive for good measure and a dash of redex. First road drive since I put her all back togeather after the heater system refurb and she ran lovely and smooth.
There was only one issue which concerns me and its this: I initially found NO thermostat present on strip down. I now have one fitted. Temp comes up fine and top hose gets hot to indicate thermostat has opened up and allowed hot flow to progress. Kenlow fan kicks in all nice and fine too BUT when I am driving the car on the roads the temp guage seems to be just under the RED marker ( not in the red ) but just under it. Kenlow is on too and I have been running with both heaters on full to purge any remaining air locks of which I have none. Car is running perfectly and no signs at all of serious overheating or steam etc coming from anywhere.
I made perfectly sure both heater matrixes and the main radiator were well flushed too and all the coolant which came out was nice and clean too and hardly any dirty crud at all. My service history shows regular coolant flushed recorded and carried out over the cars entire life so no chance of neglect there. Main radiator is fine and was replaced some years ago according to history file invoices.
Would it be worth buying the oversized radiator offered by JRW as it states in their listing advert that its recommended for cars which may have overheating problems??? I am confident NOTHING is wrong or indeed failing and I have absolutely NO coolant loss or leaks anywhere.
I was just expecting the temp guage to sit in the middle of its run area. New temp sender switch fitted too.
All advice appreciated.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 19, 2019 21:23:11 GMT
For efficient cooling either mechanical fan or electrically driven a well designed fan shroud that 'pulls' from the full area of the radiator is most efficient. Note big inch muscle cars of the 60s ran cool in the heat of the American west coast by virtue of well designed mechanical fans and shrouds. NB. The shroud should be close fitting with half the blade area outside of the shroud periphery. If non viscous driven, a flex fan is the next best thing available. Similarly the most efficient electric fans require a properly constructed shroud. Further: If there are cooling deficiencies in static traffic conditions consider the 'poor' design for removing heat in a P5, specifically if hot air can't escape an enclosed bonnet space...then heat exchange cannot efficiently occur. * This is what is fitted to my car Brendan. There are also 2 thermostatically controlled fans in front of the radiator which only switch on in extreme temperatures. OZ summers can reach 40C and sometimes even greater!
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 20, 2019 10:22:38 GMT
That's some serious mods you have there. Is that fan off your lawnmower?? LOL
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Post by Ken Nelson on Feb 20, 2019 14:30:07 GMT
Phil has also mentioned before that the gauges can be rather inaccurate also. On my P5 Coupe with rebuilt engine (albeit the 3 liter of course) and cleaned radiator the temp gauge varies quite a bit and often rather erratically and up to the bottom edge of the red. I replaced the voltage stabilizer and it still does it with no sign at all of truly overheating. I have just learned to accept it as being part of the 'Rover Mystique'.
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 20, 2019 15:31:50 GMT
Thanks Ken, I will of course continue to monitor closely but like ive mentioned before I am convinced nothing is wrong and it could just be a Mystery of Roverism if there is such a thing. LOL.
I am planning on having the Evans waterless coolant put in soon so this should make a difference to the guage reading.
Cheers
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Post by enigmas on Feb 20, 2019 22:39:11 GMT
That's some serious mods you have there. Is that fan off your lawnmower?? LOL Yes it is large, but it also pulls air through the aircon condensor and the trans cooler. Tiny fans or badly designed ones move negligible air and are more ornament than anything else. If you're serious about cooling (OZ summers are testing) efficiency and heat exchange are specifically relevant if a daily driver) My car is actually a MK3 Coupe and was my daily driver for over 20 years (covering 300kms per week) Purchased as a basket case when I was 40 and built much as you see it but recently freshened. FYI Mods include: P76 V8, BW40/51 internals in a the original MK3 BW35 case, cruise control, LPG, flex fan, thermo fans & alloy radiator, lower bypass thermostat, aircon, 4 wheel disc brakes (Rear:Jag/Mercedes rear) (Front: Mitsubishi vented discs/Holden HQ PBR calipers) 2.9:1 4 pinion gear set fitted to the original diff casing, twin exhaust system. Fully programmable ignition running 2 distinct ignition maps (1 for LPG, the other for Petrol.) Next to last mod is fitting a ZF 4HP22 auto trans.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 20, 2019 22:55:42 GMT
Brendan if going to waterless coolant expect an operating temperature increase. The product is more viscous and is a poorer heat transmitter between the engine block surfaces. Google 'Redline Water Wetter' if looking for improved cooling efficiency.
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 23, 2019 11:24:02 GMT
Denso taping my new rear leaf springs to day for max protection.
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Post by lagain on Feb 23, 2019 21:09:47 GMT
Took mine out today in the sunshine and dry roads of Swindon and filled her up with petrol ( super unleaded ) 40 litres in total along with 2 x 20ml shots of lead additive for good measure and a dash of redex. First road drive since I put her all back togeather after the heater system refurb and she ran lovely and smooth. There was only one issue which concerns me and its this: I initially found NO thermostat present on strip down. I now have one fitted. Temp comes up fine and top hose gets hot to indicate thermostat has opened up and allowed hot flow to progress. Kenlow fan kicks in all nice and fine too BUT when I am driving the car on the roads the temp guage seems to be just under the RED marker ( not in the red ) but just under it. Kenlow is on too and I have been running with both heaters on full to purge any remaining air locks of which I have none. Car is running perfectly and no signs at all of serious overheating or steam etc coming from anywhere. I made perfectly sure both heater matrixes and the main radiator were well flushed too and all the coolant which came out was nice and clean too and hardly any dirty crud at all. My service history shows regular coolant flushed recorded and carried out over the cars entire life so no chance of neglect there. Main radiator is fine and was replaced some years ago according to history file invoices. Would it be worth buying the oversized radiator offered by JRW as it states in their listing advert that its recommended for cars which may have overheating problems??? I am confident NOTHING is wrong or indeed failing and I have absolutely NO coolant loss or leaks anywhere. I was just expecting the temp guage to sit in the middle of its run area. New temp sender switch fitted too. All advice appreciated. If you are confident that there is nothing wrong it would be the guage or the sender. How does it compare to before you changed the coolant and fitted a thermostat and did you notice if pipes were totally clean. Could you check the water temperature with a different guage. Kenlowe fans are not designed to be on all the time, it should come on and reduce the temperature and then go off. An oversize radiator is no good if the flow through the block is slower than it should be
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 24, 2019 11:00:24 GMT
Hi George, All old removed engine rubber hose pipes along with the drained coolant were all nice and clear. The coolant looked fresh too and according to the cars extensive service records I have no reason to doubt any of it at all. She has been superbly loved and pampered by original and second owner which explains why she is so good and the main reason I bought her too. Last owner Bjorn supplied me a new temp sender switch which ive already fitted. Once it became clear to me on strip down there was no thermostat in there that explained the cold running symptoms. Since putting it all back togeather again with a complete new set of pipes she has been great. Heaters are lovely and warm too and they should be. All fresh coolant with a good mix installed and triple checked for any air locks and there are none at all. Its just the position of the guage that bugs me as I was TBH expecting it to sit bang smack in the middle. She does NOT enter the red zone though it has to be said. Just lies right under the white line marker. She warms up to temp from stone cold on the driveway in around 10 mins tops and I know the new thermostat is working ok because the top hose gets hot which indicates flow/opened circulation. I have been playing with the Kenlow fan dial so its probably me and the reason why its on all the time after thermostat opens up plus the car is static and not in motion. I would be interested to know which setting others have their Kenlow set at please on the dial knob? I may just flush the system again and re-fill with another mix to be certain albeit I gave it 2 flushes and all was clear coming out. In addition to yesterdays Denso taping of the rear springs of which I only had enough on the roll for one side I also removed both rear brake drums and checked and cleaned out those areas. There was some dust in the drums but again it looked as though some money had been spent in there recently as the brake shoes and wheel cylinders all looked in very good to new looking condition and nice and dry too. No signs of any leaks and the brakes are excellent on mine it has to be said as well as the parking brake too which I only use now and then. Ive left her up in the air and await the other roll of Denso tape to arrive so I can do the O/S spring.
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