Jon Pickles
Rover Newbie
Posts: 5
Location: Kingston, UK
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Post by Jon Pickles on Dec 16, 2018 17:41:30 GMT
I have a 1970 P5B coupe. It comes out every 2 months or so and has always been a good starter.
Recently I came to start the car and the battery was low - so had to jump start it. Once it had started, the ignition light stayed on for around 2-3 minutes, then went out. Having taken the car for a 20-minute drive the battery was completely dead - had to jump start the car again to put it back in the garage.
Have tried running it a few times just to check it's not that the battery just needed charging up. Each time the ignition light stays on for a few minutes, then goes out - car drives fine but battery completely dead at the end.
Have checked the fan belt is turning the alternator - which it is - so presumably next step is either a new alternator or a new battery. Any thoughts welcomed.
Thanks
Jon
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Post by dhb5610 on Dec 16, 2018 17:47:32 GMT
I think getting the battery tested is the next step to see if it is knackered you will soon find out when they test it whether it's the problem or not
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Dec 16, 2018 18:00:12 GMT
I have a 1970 P5B coupe. It comes out every 2 months or so and has always been a good starter. Recently I came to start the car and the battery was low - so had to jump start it. Once it had started, the ignition light stayed on for around 2-3 minutes, then went out. Having taken the car for a 20-minute drive the battery was completely dead - had to jump start the car again to put it back in the garage. Have tried running it a few times just to check it's not that the battery just needed charging up. Each time the ignition light stays on for a few minutes, then goes out - car drives fine but battery completely dead at the end. Have checked the fan belt is turning the alternator - which it is - so presumably next step is either a new alternator or a new battery. Any thoughts welcomed. Thanks Jon You need to check the volts on the battery when the engine is running Jon around 14.2 volts is good that will prove the system is charging
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Post by lagain on Dec 16, 2018 21:11:29 GMT
How old is the battery ? Modern batteries tend to drop dead rather than declining as they used to years ago.
I replace my battery every 5 years, regardless, to avoid being stranded in a remote part of Scotland.
I get mine from ebay, as not only do you get a good price but it is brought to the door. The last one came from Glasgow !
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Dec 17, 2018 8:25:07 GMT
How old is the battery ? Modern batteries tend to drop dead rather than declining as they used to years ago. I replace my battery every 5 years, regardless, to avoid being stranded in a remote part of Scotland. I get mine from ebay, as not only do you get a good price but it is brought to the door. The last one came from Glasgow ! One of the benefits of keeping The Old Girl in a Carcoon over winter George is the power supply which powers the Muffin Fans but also has a Trickle Charger that looks after the Battery, worth a read www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/35878/battery-conditioners
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Jon Pickles
Rover Newbie
Posts: 5
Location: Kingston, UK
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Post by Jon Pickles on Dec 17, 2018 8:32:57 GMT
Thank you. Couple of follow on questions.
1) battery is at least 10 years old. What make/spec battery would you recommend as a replacement
2) this may be a daft question, but if I test the battery with a multimeter before starting and then test while it is running, and get a good reading both times, how can I know whether the charge is from the alternator or simply from the battery?
Will be buying a multimeter for Christmas!
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Post by dhb5610 on Dec 17, 2018 9:40:59 GMT
I have a good little shop near me in sunny West Yorksire and when I had problems with the caravan battery he tested it for me only to pronounce it was dead. I agree with Lagain modern batteries tend to just drop dead. My Rover has an isolator switch in the boot and for the last couple of years I've turned it off whilst the car is parked up and it's been fine
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Post by Warwick on Dec 17, 2018 9:51:24 GMT
... 1) battery is at least 10 years old. ... In that case, it's almost certain that the battery has expired.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Dec 17, 2018 10:59:45 GMT
Hi Jon I got a Varta 069 battery off Fleabay very reasonable price delivered but have a shop around!
As Warwick said @ 10 years is past it's working life!
If you measure across the battery without the engine running it should be around 13.8v for a "good" recharged battery, when you start the engine this should increase to around 14.2v, Halfords will do a check for you free of charge (sorry not a pun intended lol!!)
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Post by Brendan69 on Dec 17, 2018 11:07:41 GMT
Invest in a C-tek battery conditioner. I have 2 of them and been using them now for many years and ive never had a flat battery ever on any of my classics which are usually parked up for ages.
The latest model C-tek is a MSX-5.0 and this has a little built in fan to keep it cool when on for long periods of time. Average cost for this unit is £50-£60. They cost nothing to run either.
I swear by them and its the best thing you can have connected to your cars battery. There are 2 ways to connect, you can just use the crock clips or you can use the hard wired lead which is what I always use.
One thing you MUST ALWAYS remember though is to switch it off at the wall socket and disconnect the lead from the battery lead BEFORE you start the car so you don't cause a surge.
As soon as I park my cars up I simply reconnect and switch it back on and walk away. Its as simple as that.
If you cars battery is over 7 years old then I would suggest you change it now and then buy a C-tek to keep it cared for. Best thing you can buy to preserve your cars battery.
The likes of Aston Martin, Rolls Royce, Bentley and all those other high end car makers actually commission C-Tek to supply these units to them with their brand name on them and then they charge over £250 for one as mark up. Its a scandal but folk are well up on that now.
Regards,
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Jon Pickles
Rover Newbie
Posts: 5
Location: Kingston, UK
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Post by Jon Pickles on Dec 17, 2018 16:19:45 GMT
Thanks all - will let you know how I get on!
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Dec 17, 2018 16:23:11 GMT
Please do so that is how info is shared
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Post by Brendan69 on Dec 17, 2018 18:24:20 GMT
I wouldn't let Halfords loose on a set of Lego never mind my car. LOL
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Jon Pickles
Rover Newbie
Posts: 5
Location: Kingston, UK
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Post by Jon Pickles on Feb 9, 2019 14:10:30 GMT
OK - Update! Did some shopping after Christmas and bought a multimeter and Geniusboost jump starter pack.
Got to the car and tested the battery first up - got around 12.5v. Turned the engine but not enough to start, so jump started. Healthy 14.0v while the engine was running. Took it for a 20 minute drive - and after that, battery had charged enough to start fine. So I am wondering if there was a loose connection somewhere.
Either way, I may invest in a new battery given all your comments.
Many thanks and if the problem recurs I will update the thread!
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tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
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Post by tonys on Feb 9, 2019 14:52:36 GMT
I would definitely get a new battery. It's being charged but clearly not holding the charge and it isn't going to fix itself as time goes on . I'd also use a trickle charger, as others have suggested. As well as the more well-known ones (CTek etc), Lidl and Aldi sometimes have quite reasonable ones on offer.
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 10, 2019 16:51:43 GMT
I also bought one of those little Genie boost packs last year. Best thing ive ever bought to date. Awesome bit of kit and does not take up any space.
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Post by Eric R on Feb 11, 2019 8:50:17 GMT
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 11, 2019 13:49:49 GMT
Eric, that is the exact same as the one I bought last year albeit I only paid £95 for mine. The price your showing on your link is far too much BUT they are an awesome bit of kit it has to be said.
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Post by Eric R on Feb 11, 2019 17:46:30 GMT
Do you refer to the price of the Genie jump kit price? I searched for it and the only one that came up was the 12v 4000A from motorbike traders. Looks to be too expensive and too powerful. However on uTube the models demonstrated were 2000A but no prices displayed. I have bought the CT/56-972 charger for £72 which is around the price you now quote.
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Post by Brendan69 on Feb 12, 2019 10:56:19 GMT
I have the 12v 1000 AH model Eric which is quite sufficient and ive noticed too they have come down in price to around the £80 mark.
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Post by Eric R on Feb 13, 2019 14:54:53 GMT
I think you are now back to the "Genie"
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Post by Colin McA on Feb 17, 2019 17:45:19 GMT
I have a trickle charge which I have used in the garage for years. However I have decided just to fully charge the battery and leave disconnected when the car is not in use. I have a 1995 Volvo in a lock up without power so instead of finding a dead battery or have a fire risk I disconnect the battery. I bought a good quality dis-car-nect so just screw the knob down. I was getting worried about the battery fully discharging and causing an early failure. Dis-car-nect
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Post by Eric R on Feb 17, 2019 21:45:15 GMT
if the battery isolator looks like this: prntscr.com/mmejd5I think the separate male/fem plate must also be separated to rest the battery completely, not just unscrew the green turn and withdraw the inner brass earth lead from the battery
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Post by richardlamsdale on Feb 17, 2019 22:42:08 GMT
The one I have has an insulator between the two 'plates' so the screw is the only connection point - unscrew it a couple of turns and the battery is disconnected. You can just about see the insulator in the photo (its white plastic). I have seen one where the insulator was lost (or maybe a copy), so as you say that would need to be completely separated to be sure the plates don't touch.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Feb 18, 2019 9:47:34 GMT
The trickle charger came with my Carcoon it powers the fans and conditions the battery at the same time, it has worked fine for the last 6 years!
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