joffa
Rover Rookie
Posts: 82
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Post by joffa on Jun 1, 2019 8:02:41 GMT
I bought two sets from Summit racing in the USA: Timken and Felpro as I wanted to see the difference between the USA ones and the ones I got from JRW. Will let you know which ones I chose as they are all made of different material.
JRW V8 Sump Set Early with the incorrect main cap seals (cross type for later V8 not the straight ones needed for the early caps)
Timken and Felpro sets Timken set with mystery nails
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Post by lagain on Jun 2, 2019 18:57:33 GMT
If you have your engine out for re building why not have it machined to take the later SD1 seal.
The rope seal was a very weak link on the V8 engine. I replaced mine a couple of times with a kit containing a Chinese finger that came from the Isle of Wight (that in itself should have been a warning !). The problem was that there were two ends that had to be pushed together - no hope of keeping the oil in the engine. Even when done properly it will only last a few years before it starts to leak again.
I had the engine rebuilt with a proper seal and (touch wood !) 25 years later the engine is still 'dry'
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Post by Sam Bee on Jun 2, 2019 22:10:14 GMT
I have had mine done the same. And fitting an updated crankshaft seal to the timing cover too.
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Post by enigmas on Jun 3, 2019 1:37:11 GMT
If fitting a rope seal offset the ends of each piece of seal so that they are not in alignment with the bearing cap parting line.
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joffa
Rover Rookie
Posts: 82
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Post by joffa on Jun 3, 2019 1:39:47 GMT
I perhaps should have looked harder before getting the liners sorted but I did look into getting the block machined to take the later seal and couldn't find a machine shop that was confident in doing the job. I am OK with putting the old seal back as the last one didn't leak for about 14 years which if this one last that long I am OK with that. Perhaps a lot of the issues in the past with these seals may have had to to do with the material they were made of. The three types of rope seal I have are all different with JRW being very stiff, thinner and completely round. The USA ones are constructed in a multi layer arrangement with an inner core of some white material with an outer sheath of a woven supple fabric and are oval in shape. I am figuring the American seals designed for the Buick are the way to go as they use them all the time on their old engines.
Anyway, still trying to find out what those nails are for?
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joffa
Rover Rookie
Posts: 82
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Post by joffa on Jun 3, 2019 2:25:16 GMT
Eureka! - after some more USA based internet research I found out what the pins do. Makes sense in retrospect that this info is from hot rod and vintage American engine building websites - Ford Y Blocks from the 1950's.
The pins are driven down the side of the bearing cap side seal/packer to expand and locate them into the gap between the bearing cap and the block. The pictures tell the story although the tapered side of the packer/side seal goes inwards towards the crank and the pin is driven down the groove in the side of the packer (pointy end of nail in towards block). The nails are installed on the retainer or bearing cap side of the seal which makes sense as this squashes the seal flat on the other side making a tight seal between the cap and the block.
Website links:
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